HomeBrewTalk Wiki - User contributions [en]

Category:Beer equipment

2008-04-25T14:08:50Z

Mmb: /* Counterflow Chiller */

[[Category:Beer]]
[[Image:Kit.jpg|thumb|100px|left|‎]]
{{Beer}}
The equipment used in homebrewing ranges from simple household items to ingenious homemade gear to commercially-produced equipment, all designed to meet the needs of home brewers from the most humble to the most affluent.

The most basic peices of equipment needed to make beer at home are a pot or kettle and a long-handled spoon for stirring. Pots designed for use on a range or a propane or natural gas burner may be made of stainless steel, aluminum, or enameled steel. You can even use plastic buckets with sealed electrical heating elements installed. The most useful kettles are those with a minimum capacity of at least twelve quarts, and may range up in size to 30, 40, even 120 gallons or more. But the most common sizes among home brewers are those ranging from twelve to sixty or so quarts.

The brewing equipment can be classed into 3 main groups.

* Wort Production
* Boiling Equipment
* Fermentation Equipment

== Brewing kits ==
{{main|Brewing kits}}

Different equipment is required for the different methods of brewing; the more involved methods generally require additional equipment.

Beginning brewers can purchase extract brewing kits which typically contain two 6.5 gallon food grade buckets, a lid with a hole and grommet, a spigot which attaches to one of the buckets, an airlock, a length of vinyl tubing, a hydrometer, and a bottle capper.

As the complexity of the brewing process increases, additional equipment such as glass carboys, mash tuns, lauter tuns, and heat sources can be added.

Some all grain brewers have their brewing equipment assembled onto a [[Brewing Sculpture]], whilst other leave there kit as separate components allowing them more flexibility in how and where they brew.

== Hot Liquor Tun ==
{{main|Hot Liquor Tun}}

A simple vessel for heating and storing the hot liquor (water) required for mashing and sparging the grain.

== Mash/Lauter Tun ==

=== Mash Tun ===
{{main|Mash Tun}}

* A vessel to hold the grain and water at the required temperature(s) to allow the starch in the grain to be converted by enzymes to sugar.

=== Lauter Tun ===
{{main|Lauter Tun}}

A vessel to rinse the sugar from the grains. Basically a strainer. The Lauter Tun can be the same vessel as the [[Mash Tun]].

=== Mash/Lauter Tun Parts ===

==== Converted Cooler ====
[[Image:Mashtun-1-.jpg|100px|right|thumb|converted cooler]]‎
A cooler makes an ideal mash/lauter tun for the Homebrewer. It is easily machined, water tight and any but the cheapest cooler will hold the mash within the required temperature for the required time. The cooler can be used without modification but for ease of use a few small additions will turn it in to an efficient mash tun. A strainer and a tap are the most useful additions. The strainer can be plastic/copper manifold or a simple stainless steal braided pipe cover.

[[Converting a cooler to a mash tun]]

=== Recirculating mash systems ===
{{main|Recirculating mash systems}}

A recirculating system is designed to hold the mash at a stable temperature during the mash by removing some of the liquid part of the mash, heating it, and returning it to the mash tun. Recirculating systems, such as [[RIMS]] and [[HERMS]] systems, result in clearer wort and a very stable, repeatable mash temperature.

== Brew Pot ==
; Stainless Steel : The chosen material for many brewers due to ease of cleaning, strength and durability. It is more difficult to machine and modify than Aluminum. The thermal conductivity of stainless steel is 8.09-8.11BTU/(hr-ft-*F) depending on the alloy.

; Aluminum : Lightweight, cheap, easy to machine. There are always discussions on the safety and durability but there seems to be no strong evidence of any problems. Used by many brewers with good results. It is important that the aluminum has an intact protective oxide layer - this will be obvious as it will look dull and cloudy. The oxide layer can be generated by boiling water in the pot prior to use for brewing. Caustic products should not be used for cleaning and the pot should not be scrubbed bright, as this will damage the oxide. Another advantage of aluminum is it's thermal conductivity is much higher than stainless steel's at 136BTU/(hr-ft-*F).

; Enameled Steel : Usually cheap and easy to find although more common in sizes of 1 to 3 gallon. Care needs to make sure if they are old that they do not contain lead. Care also needs to be taken not to chip the enamel.

; [[Keggle]] or Converted Kegs : Made from converted brewers kegs. Durable and rust proof. It should be confirmed that they are not Still owned by a brewery. The top is cut out and couplers or nipples welded in for spigots and other accessories.

; [[Electric Boiler]] :

== Heat Sources ==

=== Stove Top Range - Electric ===
The method of choice (or, of last resort) for many a new brewer and apartment-dweller. Most electric ranges are acceptable to reach a rolling boil with a partial boil. However, once a brewer decides to go All-Grain, which requires full boils, most electric ranges are woefully inadequate. In this case, it can take over an hour to heat the wort to boiling, and keeping a rolling boil going is exceedingly difficult.

=== Stove Top Range - Gas ===
While generally better than electric ranges, the typical residential gas range is still less than optimal for full boils.

=== Propane Burner ===
{{main|Propane Burner}}

Widely available from homebrew supply shops, DIY superstores, and various online retailers, propane burners are the weapon of choice for many brewers. Available in different BTU ranges, these burners are typically standalone units that the user hooks up to a standard gas-grill-type propane tank. The heat output from most propane burners is usually adequate for partial and full boils. Some Brewers have had success with burners rated at 30,000 BTU for five Gallon Boils, Others prefer to go for 200,000 BTU units.

=== Turkey Fryer ===
{{main|Turkey Fryer}}

The "poor-man's propane burner". In the month or so preceding Thanksgiving each year, many retailers (see: Wal-Mart, Target) stock Turkey Fryer Kits. The units are propane-fired, like the [[propane burner]], but typically do not have the BTU ratings of standalone propane burners. Often, the kits come with thermometers and aluminum kettles, which serves as an added bonus for the cost-conscious homebrewer. These units, while typically in the 55,000-BTU range, are adequate for full 5 gallon boils. Turkey fryers are not readily available outside of the USA.

=== Electric Heating Element ===
{{main|Electric Heating Element}}

These can be of several types. Electric kettle elements, Immersion heater elements are designed to be in contact with the liquid to be heated, cleaning and scorching the wort can be an issue with this type of element. Some boilers have the heating element under a false bottom and is not in contact with the liquid.

=== Natural Gas Burner ===
{{main|Natural Gas Burner}}

A heating element consisting of multiple jets through which natural gas is distributed and ignited. Most commonly found on kitchen stove tops or outdoor grills designed to use natural gas. Kitchen gas ranges and outdoor grill side burners average less than 20,000 BTUs, making them unsuitable for homebrewing operations larger than about 3 gallons. Less common, but more well suited to homebrewing, are larger natural gas burners with outputs as high as 200,000 BTUs available through outdoor grill suppliers and specialty shops.

=== Steam ===
{{main|Steam}}

== Cooling Devices ==
After boiling, wort needs to cooled to a suitable temperature for pitching yeast. It needs to be done as quickly as possible for a number of reasons including reduction of DMS, limit exposure to potential infections, and assist in cold break. Several devices available to the home brewer, including both commercially manufactured and home made, are used in this important step. [[User:Bobby M|Bobby M]] 14:28, 12 February 2007 (CST)

=== Ice ===
For the extract brewer, ice is one of the most economical ways to quickly chill wort. It is typically used in two different ways.

# It can be used in place of top off water when one boils only part of the overall volume of the batch. Care must be taken that the ice itself is free of contaminants because it will become part of the finished beer. The brewer my pre-boil some water to sanitize and transfer it to a sanitized container (Tupperware, etc) and placed in the freezer. This ice is placed into the primary fermenter and the hot wort is carefully transferred onto it. The resulting temperature is usually within acceptable yeast pitching range.
# The second use of ice is to make an ice water bath into which the boiling kettle is immersed. This method of cooling takes some time due to the limited surface area between the hot and cold liquid. Faster cooling may be achieved by gently stirring both the hot wort and ice water occasionally as long as the spoon used in the wort is sanitized.

=== Immersion Chiller ===
{{main|Immersion Chiller}}

An immersion chiller is basically a copper tube that has been coiled so that it can fit inside of your brew pot. It is usually added to your brew pot 15 minutes before the end of your boil, thus sanitizing the copper. At the end of your boil, water is ran through the copper, extracting heat from your wort. *Be careful of the water leaving the chiller, it will be extremely hot for the first 5 minutes or so*

=== Counterflow Chiller ===
{{main|Counterflow Chiller}}

[[How_to_make_a_Counter_Flow_Chiller|DIY:How to make a Counter Flow Chiller]]

=== Plate Chiller ===
{{main|Plate Chiller}}

== Tools/Accessories ==

=== Grain Mill ===
{{main|Grain Mill}}

=== Thermometer ===
{{main|Thermometer}}

=== Hydrometer ===
{{main|Hydrometer}}

=== PH Meter/Test Strips ===

=== Spoons ===

=== Vinyl Tubing ===

=== Pyrex ===

== Fermenting and Conditioning ==
Many vessels can be used to hold fermenting beer. Common items range from plastic pails to stainless steel [[conical]]s.

=== Bucket ===
{{main|Bucket}}

The most basic vessel is a Food Grade Plastic Pail. These are normally 6-7.5 gallons in capacity and have a lid that can be sealed. The lid has a hole drill into it so a airlock (or blow off tube) may be placed to let gas escape from the fermentation.

=== Carboy ===
{{main|Carboy}}

Another common fermentation vessel, Ranging from 1-6.5 gallons these vessels normally have a 1.25" opening on the top. A drilled rubber bung is placed in this opening to accommodate an airlock (also a 1" ID tube may be use for a [[Blow off Tube|blow off tube]]).

=== Conical ===
{{main|Conical}}

An advanced fermentation vessel used in home brewing is the [[Conical]] fermenter. Made of durable Stainless Steel and ranging from 7.5 gallons to in excess of 30 gallons these are the preferred fermenter of professional brewers.

=== Fermentation cabinet ===
{{main|Fermentation cabinet}}

An insulated cabinet for keeping the fermentation temperature cool or at a set temperature. They can me made from a refrigerator or custom made from insulation material.

=== Walk-in Cooler ===
{{main|Walk-in Cooler}}

A dedicated room that is insulated and chilled.

== Airlocks ==
{{main|Airlocks}}

Fitted to a fermenter to allow CO2 out of the fermenter but keep out contamination. Generally available in 3 styles.

== Bottling, Kegging and Casking==

===Bottling===
[[Image:2-handle-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Kinda hard.]]
[[Image:bench-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Much Easier.]]
Many beginning brewers prefer bottling their beer, as it requires a much smaller initial investment, and allows more portability if one desires to share their homebrew. 12oz and 22oz [[bottles]] seem to be the most commonly used, although 16oz and 500ml bottles are also somewhat common. 750ml Belgian-style bottles can be used as well, but they require corks, a corker, and wire cages to hold the corks in place when carbonation builds in the bottles. Twist top bottles are normally avoided, although some homebrewers say they can be used without concern about a proper seal.

Disadvantages of bottling include sanitization, which can be difficult with so many [[bottles]]. A typical 5 gallon batch will yield approximately fifty 12oz bottles, forty 16oz bottles, or twenty-five 750ml bottles. There are also risks with handling glass as opposed to a metal keg, which has virtually no risk of breaking.

=== Kegging ===
{{main|Kegging}}

It is for these reasons that many homebrewers take up [[kegging]], which normally involves transferring a five gallon batch of beer into a five gallon [[cornelius]], or corny, [[kegs]].

Advantages of kegging include the fact that only one container needs to be sanitized for an entire batch, the fact that serving sizes can be as large or as small as desired, and the ability to more quickly carbonate and drink batches in kegs.

However, the initial investment for kegging can be quite high, as it generally includes purchasing at least one keg, all the equipment needed for carbonating beer, and more than likely, a separate refrigerator to store and chill [[kegs]]. Also, transporting a keg is not as easy as moving a few bottles if that is all that is needed, although it can be done.

[[Image:kegsetup.jpg|thumb|100px|right|‎]]

=== Casks ===
{{main|Casks}}

A vessel for condition and serving "[[Real Ale]]" without force carbonating.

=== Mini Kegs ===
{{main|Mini Kegs}}

5 litre reusable kegs

=== Party Pigs ===
{{main|Party Pigs}}

The Party Pig® is a self contained 8.5 liter (2.25 gallon) reusable beer package/dispenser.

=== Polypins ===
{{main|Polypins}}

Low-cost beer containers for 'real ales'. Heavy duty polythene cube with combined cap/dispensing tap contained in a strong cardboard box. Usually used with a [[Beer Engine]]s

== Serving ==

=== Kegerators ===
{{main|Kegerator}}

A refrigerator for serving draft beer modified with tap handles, kegs, a CO2 tank and all of the serving and gas lines to connect it all. They can be built out of small mini fridges, regular household refrigerators, chest freezers and even commercial walk-in fridges.

=== Jockey boxes ===
{{main|Jockey box}}

Utilizes an ice chest and a metal coil to chill beer. Works like a reverse immersion wort chiller.

=== Beer Engines ===
{{main|Beer Engine}}

[[Image:Beer_Engine.JPG‎|thumb|100px|]]

* Beer line
* Push fittings
* CO2

Category:Beer equipment

2008-04-25T14:07:51Z

Mmb: /* Counterflow Chiller */

[[Category:Beer]]
[[Image:Kit.jpg|thumb|100px|left|‎]]
{{Beer}}
The equipment used in homebrewing ranges from simple household items to ingenious homemade gear to commercially-produced equipment, all designed to meet the needs of home brewers from the most humble to the most affluent.

The most basic peices of equipment needed to make beer at home are a pot or kettle and a long-handled spoon for stirring. Pots designed for use on a range or a propane or natural gas burner may be made of stainless steel, aluminum, or enameled steel. You can even use plastic buckets with sealed electrical heating elements installed. The most useful kettles are those with a minimum capacity of at least twelve quarts, and may range up in size to 30, 40, even 120 gallons or more. But the most common sizes among home brewers are those ranging from twelve to sixty or so quarts.

The brewing equipment can be classed into 3 main groups.

* Wort Production
* Boiling Equipment
* Fermentation Equipment

== Brewing kits ==
{{main|Brewing kits}}

Different equipment is required for the different methods of brewing; the more involved methods generally require additional equipment.

Beginning brewers can purchase extract brewing kits which typically contain two 6.5 gallon food grade buckets, a lid with a hole and grommet, a spigot which attaches to one of the buckets, an airlock, a length of vinyl tubing, a hydrometer, and a bottle capper.

As the complexity of the brewing process increases, additional equipment such as glass carboys, mash tuns, lauter tuns, and heat sources can be added.

Some all grain brewers have their brewing equipment assembled onto a [[Brewing Sculpture]], whilst other leave there kit as separate components allowing them more flexibility in how and where they brew.

== Hot Liquor Tun ==
{{main|Hot Liquor Tun}}

A simple vessel for heating and storing the hot liquor (water) required for mashing and sparging the grain.

== Mash/Lauter Tun ==

=== Mash Tun ===
{{main|Mash Tun}}

* A vessel to hold the grain and water at the required temperature(s) to allow the starch in the grain to be converted by enzymes to sugar.

=== Lauter Tun ===
{{main|Lauter Tun}}

A vessel to rinse the sugar from the grains. Basically a strainer. The Lauter Tun can be the same vessel as the [[Mash Tun]].

=== Mash/Lauter Tun Parts ===

==== Converted Cooler ====
[[Image:Mashtun-1-.jpg|100px|right|thumb|converted cooler]]‎
A cooler makes an ideal mash/lauter tun for the Homebrewer. It is easily machined, water tight and any but the cheapest cooler will hold the mash within the required temperature for the required time. The cooler can be used without modification but for ease of use a few small additions will turn it in to an efficient mash tun. A strainer and a tap are the most useful additions. The strainer can be plastic/copper manifold or a simple stainless steal braided pipe cover.

[[Converting a cooler to a mash tun]]

=== Recirculating mash systems ===
{{main|Recirculating mash systems}}

A recirculating system is designed to hold the mash at a stable temperature during the mash by removing some of the liquid part of the mash, heating it, and returning it to the mash tun. Recirculating systems, such as [[RIMS]] and [[HERMS]] systems, result in clearer wort and a very stable, repeatable mash temperature.

== Brew Pot ==
; Stainless Steel : The chosen material for many brewers due to ease of cleaning, strength and durability. It is more difficult to machine and modify than Aluminum. The thermal conductivity of stainless steel is 8.09-8.11BTU/(hr-ft-*F) depending on the alloy.

; Aluminum : Lightweight, cheap, easy to machine. There are always discussions on the safety and durability but there seems to be no strong evidence of any problems. Used by many brewers with good results. It is important that the aluminum has an intact protective oxide layer - this will be obvious as it will look dull and cloudy. The oxide layer can be generated by boiling water in the pot prior to use for brewing. Caustic products should not be used for cleaning and the pot should not be scrubbed bright, as this will damage the oxide. Another advantage of aluminum is it's thermal conductivity is much higher than stainless steel's at 136BTU/(hr-ft-*F).

; Enameled Steel : Usually cheap and easy to find although more common in sizes of 1 to 3 gallon. Care needs to make sure if they are old that they do not contain lead. Care also needs to be taken not to chip the enamel.

; [[Keggle]] or Converted Kegs : Made from converted brewers kegs. Durable and rust proof. It should be confirmed that they are not Still owned by a brewery. The top is cut out and couplers or nipples welded in for spigots and other accessories.

; [[Electric Boiler]] :

== Heat Sources ==

=== Stove Top Range - Electric ===
The method of choice (or, of last resort) for many a new brewer and apartment-dweller. Most electric ranges are acceptable to reach a rolling boil with a partial boil. However, once a brewer decides to go All-Grain, which requires full boils, most electric ranges are woefully inadequate. In this case, it can take over an hour to heat the wort to boiling, and keeping a rolling boil going is exceedingly difficult.

=== Stove Top Range - Gas ===
While generally better than electric ranges, the typical residential gas range is still less than optimal for full boils.

=== Propane Burner ===
{{main|Propane Burner}}

Widely available from homebrew supply shops, DIY superstores, and various online retailers, propane burners are the weapon of choice for many brewers. Available in different BTU ranges, these burners are typically standalone units that the user hooks up to a standard gas-grill-type propane tank. The heat output from most propane burners is usually adequate for partial and full boils. Some Brewers have had success with burners rated at 30,000 BTU for five Gallon Boils, Others prefer to go for 200,000 BTU units.

=== Turkey Fryer ===
{{main|Turkey Fryer}}

The "poor-man's propane burner". In the month or so preceding Thanksgiving each year, many retailers (see: Wal-Mart, Target) stock Turkey Fryer Kits. The units are propane-fired, like the [[propane burner]], but typically do not have the BTU ratings of standalone propane burners. Often, the kits come with thermometers and aluminum kettles, which serves as an added bonus for the cost-conscious homebrewer. These units, while typically in the 55,000-BTU range, are adequate for full 5 gallon boils. Turkey fryers are not readily available outside of the USA.

=== Electric Heating Element ===
{{main|Electric Heating Element}}

These can be of several types. Electric kettle elements, Immersion heater elements are designed to be in contact with the liquid to be heated, cleaning and scorching the wort can be an issue with this type of element. Some boilers have the heating element under a false bottom and is not in contact with the liquid.

=== Natural Gas Burner ===
{{main|Natural Gas Burner}}

A heating element consisting of multiple jets through which natural gas is distributed and ignited. Most commonly found on kitchen stove tops or outdoor grills designed to use natural gas. Kitchen gas ranges and outdoor grill side burners average less than 20,000 BTUs, making them unsuitable for homebrewing operations larger than about 3 gallons. Less common, but more well suited to homebrewing, are larger natural gas burners with outputs as high as 200,000 BTUs available through outdoor grill suppliers and specialty shops.

=== Steam ===
{{main|Steam}}

== Cooling Devices ==
After boiling, wort needs to cooled to a suitable temperature for pitching yeast. It needs to be done as quickly as possible for a number of reasons including reduction of DMS, limit exposure to potential infections, and assist in cold break. Several devices available to the home brewer, including both commercially manufactured and home made, are used in this important step. [[User:Bobby M|Bobby M]] 14:28, 12 February 2007 (CST)

=== Ice ===
For the extract brewer, ice is one of the most economical ways to quickly chill wort. It is typically used in two different ways.

# It can be used in place of top off water when one boils only part of the overall volume of the batch. Care must be taken that the ice itself is free of contaminants because it will become part of the finished beer. The brewer my pre-boil some water to sanitize and transfer it to a sanitized container (Tupperware, etc) and placed in the freezer. This ice is placed into the primary fermenter and the hot wort is carefully transferred onto it. The resulting temperature is usually within acceptable yeast pitching range.
# The second use of ice is to make an ice water bath into which the boiling kettle is immersed. This method of cooling takes some time due to the limited surface area between the hot and cold liquid. Faster cooling may be achieved by gently stirring both the hot wort and ice water occasionally as long as the spoon used in the wort is sanitized.

=== Immersion Chiller ===
{{main|Immersion Chiller}}

An immersion chiller is basically a copper tube that has been coiled so that it can fit inside of your brew pot. It is usually added to your brew pot 15 minutes before the end of your boil, thus sanitizing the copper. At the end of your boil, water is ran through the copper, extracting heat from your wort. *Be careful of the water leaving the chiller, it will be extremely hot for the first 5 minutes or so*

=== Counterflow Chiller ===
{{main|Counterflow Chiller}}
[[How_to_make_a_Counter_Flow_Chiller|How to make a Counter Flow Chiller]]

=== Plate Chiller ===
{{main|Plate Chiller}}

== Tools/Accessories ==

=== Grain Mill ===
{{main|Grain Mill}}

=== Thermometer ===
{{main|Thermometer}}

=== Hydrometer ===
{{main|Hydrometer}}

=== PH Meter/Test Strips ===

=== Spoons ===

=== Vinyl Tubing ===

=== Pyrex ===

== Fermenting and Conditioning ==
Many vessels can be used to hold fermenting beer. Common items range from plastic pails to stainless steel [[conical]]s.

=== Bucket ===
{{main|Bucket}}

The most basic vessel is a Food Grade Plastic Pail. These are normally 6-7.5 gallons in capacity and have a lid that can be sealed. The lid has a hole drill into it so a airlock (or blow off tube) may be placed to let gas escape from the fermentation.

=== Carboy ===
{{main|Carboy}}

Another common fermentation vessel, Ranging from 1-6.5 gallons these vessels normally have a 1.25" opening on the top. A drilled rubber bung is placed in this opening to accommodate an airlock (also a 1" ID tube may be use for a [[Blow off Tube|blow off tube]]).

=== Conical ===
{{main|Conical}}

An advanced fermentation vessel used in home brewing is the [[Conical]] fermenter. Made of durable Stainless Steel and ranging from 7.5 gallons to in excess of 30 gallons these are the preferred fermenter of professional brewers.

=== Fermentation cabinet ===
{{main|Fermentation cabinet}}

An insulated cabinet for keeping the fermentation temperature cool or at a set temperature. They can me made from a refrigerator or custom made from insulation material.

=== Walk-in Cooler ===
{{main|Walk-in Cooler}}

A dedicated room that is insulated and chilled.

== Airlocks ==
{{main|Airlocks}}

Fitted to a fermenter to allow CO2 out of the fermenter but keep out contamination. Generally available in 3 styles.

== Bottling, Kegging and Casking==

===Bottling===
[[Image:2-handle-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Kinda hard.]]
[[Image:bench-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Much Easier.]]
Many beginning brewers prefer bottling their beer, as it requires a much smaller initial investment, and allows more portability if one desires to share their homebrew. 12oz and 22oz [[bottles]] seem to be the most commonly used, although 16oz and 500ml bottles are also somewhat common. 750ml Belgian-style bottles can be used as well, but they require corks, a corker, and wire cages to hold the corks in place when carbonation builds in the bottles. Twist top bottles are normally avoided, although some homebrewers say they can be used without concern about a proper seal.

Disadvantages of bottling include sanitization, which can be difficult with so many [[bottles]]. A typical 5 gallon batch will yield approximately fifty 12oz bottles, forty 16oz bottles, or twenty-five 750ml bottles. There are also risks with handling glass as opposed to a metal keg, which has virtually no risk of breaking.

=== Kegging ===
{{main|Kegging}}

It is for these reasons that many homebrewers take up [[kegging]], which normally involves transferring a five gallon batch of beer into a five gallon [[cornelius]], or corny, [[kegs]].

Advantages of kegging include the fact that only one container needs to be sanitized for an entire batch, the fact that serving sizes can be as large or as small as desired, and the ability to more quickly carbonate and drink batches in kegs.

However, the initial investment for kegging can be quite high, as it generally includes purchasing at least one keg, all the equipment needed for carbonating beer, and more than likely, a separate refrigerator to store and chill [[kegs]]. Also, transporting a keg is not as easy as moving a few bottles if that is all that is needed, although it can be done.

[[Image:kegsetup.jpg|thumb|100px|right|‎]]

=== Casks ===
{{main|Casks}}

A vessel for condition and serving "[[Real Ale]]" without force carbonating.

=== Mini Kegs ===
{{main|Mini Kegs}}

5 litre reusable kegs

=== Party Pigs ===
{{main|Party Pigs}}

The Party Pig® is a self contained 8.5 liter (2.25 gallon) reusable beer package/dispenser.

=== Polypins ===
{{main|Polypins}}

Low-cost beer containers for 'real ales'. Heavy duty polythene cube with combined cap/dispensing tap contained in a strong cardboard box. Usually used with a [[Beer Engine]]s

== Serving ==

=== Kegerators ===
{{main|Kegerator}}

A refrigerator for serving draft beer modified with tap handles, kegs, a CO2 tank and all of the serving and gas lines to connect it all. They can be built out of small mini fridges, regular household refrigerators, chest freezers and even commercial walk-in fridges.

=== Jockey boxes ===
{{main|Jockey box}}

Utilizes an ice chest and a metal coil to chill beer. Works like a reverse immersion wort chiller.

=== Beer Engines ===
{{main|Beer Engine}}

[[Image:Beer_Engine.JPG‎|thumb|100px|]]

* Beer line
* Push fittings
* CO2

Category:Beer equipment

2008-04-25T14:05:47Z

Mmb: /* Counterflow Chiller */

[[Category:Beer]]
[[Image:Kit.jpg|thumb|100px|left|‎]]
{{Beer}}
The equipment used in homebrewing ranges from simple household items to ingenious homemade gear to commercially-produced equipment, all designed to meet the needs of home brewers from the most humble to the most affluent.

The most basic peices of equipment needed to make beer at home are a pot or kettle and a long-handled spoon for stirring. Pots designed for use on a range or a propane or natural gas burner may be made of stainless steel, aluminum, or enameled steel. You can even use plastic buckets with sealed electrical heating elements installed. The most useful kettles are those with a minimum capacity of at least twelve quarts, and may range up in size to 30, 40, even 120 gallons or more. But the most common sizes among home brewers are those ranging from twelve to sixty or so quarts.

The brewing equipment can be classed into 3 main groups.

* Wort Production
* Boiling Equipment
* Fermentation Equipment

== Brewing kits ==
{{main|Brewing kits}}

Different equipment is required for the different methods of brewing; the more involved methods generally require additional equipment.

Beginning brewers can purchase extract brewing kits which typically contain two 6.5 gallon food grade buckets, a lid with a hole and grommet, a spigot which attaches to one of the buckets, an airlock, a length of vinyl tubing, a hydrometer, and a bottle capper.

As the complexity of the brewing process increases, additional equipment such as glass carboys, mash tuns, lauter tuns, and heat sources can be added.

Some all grain brewers have their brewing equipment assembled onto a [[Brewing Sculpture]], whilst other leave there kit as separate components allowing them more flexibility in how and where they brew.

== Hot Liquor Tun ==
{{main|Hot Liquor Tun}}

A simple vessel for heating and storing the hot liquor (water) required for mashing and sparging the grain.

== Mash/Lauter Tun ==

=== Mash Tun ===
{{main|Mash Tun}}

* A vessel to hold the grain and water at the required temperature(s) to allow the starch in the grain to be converted by enzymes to sugar.

=== Lauter Tun ===
{{main|Lauter Tun}}

A vessel to rinse the sugar from the grains. Basically a strainer. The Lauter Tun can be the same vessel as the [[Mash Tun]].

=== Mash/Lauter Tun Parts ===

==== Converted Cooler ====
[[Image:Mashtun-1-.jpg|100px|right|thumb|converted cooler]]‎
A cooler makes an ideal mash/lauter tun for the Homebrewer. It is easily machined, water tight and any but the cheapest cooler will hold the mash within the required temperature for the required time. The cooler can be used without modification but for ease of use a few small additions will turn it in to an efficient mash tun. A strainer and a tap are the most useful additions. The strainer can be plastic/copper manifold or a simple stainless steal braided pipe cover.

[[Converting a cooler to a mash tun]]

=== Recirculating mash systems ===
{{main|Recirculating mash systems}}

A recirculating system is designed to hold the mash at a stable temperature during the mash by removing some of the liquid part of the mash, heating it, and returning it to the mash tun. Recirculating systems, such as [[RIMS]] and [[HERMS]] systems, result in clearer wort and a very stable, repeatable mash temperature.

== Brew Pot ==
; Stainless Steel : The chosen material for many brewers due to ease of cleaning, strength and durability. It is more difficult to machine and modify than Aluminum. The thermal conductivity of stainless steel is 8.09-8.11BTU/(hr-ft-*F) depending on the alloy.

; Aluminum : Lightweight, cheap, easy to machine. There are always discussions on the safety and durability but there seems to be no strong evidence of any problems. Used by many brewers with good results. It is important that the aluminum has an intact protective oxide layer - this will be obvious as it will look dull and cloudy. The oxide layer can be generated by boiling water in the pot prior to use for brewing. Caustic products should not be used for cleaning and the pot should not be scrubbed bright, as this will damage the oxide. Another advantage of aluminum is it's thermal conductivity is much higher than stainless steel's at 136BTU/(hr-ft-*F).

; Enameled Steel : Usually cheap and easy to find although more common in sizes of 1 to 3 gallon. Care needs to make sure if they are old that they do not contain lead. Care also needs to be taken not to chip the enamel.

; [[Keggle]] or Converted Kegs : Made from converted brewers kegs. Durable and rust proof. It should be confirmed that they are not Still owned by a brewery. The top is cut out and couplers or nipples welded in for spigots and other accessories.

; [[Electric Boiler]] :

== Heat Sources ==

=== Stove Top Range - Electric ===
The method of choice (or, of last resort) for many a new brewer and apartment-dweller. Most electric ranges are acceptable to reach a rolling boil with a partial boil. However, once a brewer decides to go All-Grain, which requires full boils, most electric ranges are woefully inadequate. In this case, it can take over an hour to heat the wort to boiling, and keeping a rolling boil going is exceedingly difficult.

=== Stove Top Range - Gas ===
While generally better than electric ranges, the typical residential gas range is still less than optimal for full boils.

=== Propane Burner ===
{{main|Propane Burner}}

Widely available from homebrew supply shops, DIY superstores, and various online retailers, propane burners are the weapon of choice for many brewers. Available in different BTU ranges, these burners are typically standalone units that the user hooks up to a standard gas-grill-type propane tank. The heat output from most propane burners is usually adequate for partial and full boils. Some Brewers have had success with burners rated at 30,000 BTU for five Gallon Boils, Others prefer to go for 200,000 BTU units.

=== Turkey Fryer ===
{{main|Turkey Fryer}}

The "poor-man's propane burner". In the month or so preceding Thanksgiving each year, many retailers (see: Wal-Mart, Target) stock Turkey Fryer Kits. The units are propane-fired, like the [[propane burner]], but typically do not have the BTU ratings of standalone propane burners. Often, the kits come with thermometers and aluminum kettles, which serves as an added bonus for the cost-conscious homebrewer. These units, while typically in the 55,000-BTU range, are adequate for full 5 gallon boils. Turkey fryers are not readily available outside of the USA.

=== Electric Heating Element ===
{{main|Electric Heating Element}}

These can be of several types. Electric kettle elements, Immersion heater elements are designed to be in contact with the liquid to be heated, cleaning and scorching the wort can be an issue with this type of element. Some boilers have the heating element under a false bottom and is not in contact with the liquid.

=== Natural Gas Burner ===
{{main|Natural Gas Burner}}

A heating element consisting of multiple jets through which natural gas is distributed and ignited. Most commonly found on kitchen stove tops or outdoor grills designed to use natural gas. Kitchen gas ranges and outdoor grill side burners average less than 20,000 BTUs, making them unsuitable for homebrewing operations larger than about 3 gallons. Less common, but more well suited to homebrewing, are larger natural gas burners with outputs as high as 200,000 BTUs available through outdoor grill suppliers and specialty shops.

=== Steam ===
{{main|Steam}}

== Cooling Devices ==
After boiling, wort needs to cooled to a suitable temperature for pitching yeast. It needs to be done as quickly as possible for a number of reasons including reduction of DMS, limit exposure to potential infections, and assist in cold break. Several devices available to the home brewer, including both commercially manufactured and home made, are used in this important step. [[User:Bobby M|Bobby M]] 14:28, 12 February 2007 (CST)

=== Ice ===
For the extract brewer, ice is one of the most economical ways to quickly chill wort. It is typically used in two different ways.

# It can be used in place of top off water when one boils only part of the overall volume of the batch. Care must be taken that the ice itself is free of contaminants because it will become part of the finished beer. The brewer my pre-boil some water to sanitize and transfer it to a sanitized container (Tupperware, etc) and placed in the freezer. This ice is placed into the primary fermenter and the hot wort is carefully transferred onto it. The resulting temperature is usually within acceptable yeast pitching range.
# The second use of ice is to make an ice water bath into which the boiling kettle is immersed. This method of cooling takes some time due to the limited surface area between the hot and cold liquid. Faster cooling may be achieved by gently stirring both the hot wort and ice water occasionally as long as the spoon used in the wort is sanitized.

=== Immersion Chiller ===
{{main|Immersion Chiller}}

An immersion chiller is basically a copper tube that has been coiled so that it can fit inside of your brew pot. It is usually added to your brew pot 15 minutes before the end of your boil, thus sanitizing the copper. At the end of your boil, water is ran through the copper, extracting heat from your wort. *Be careful of the water leaving the chiller, it will be extremely hot for the first 5 minutes or so*

=== Counterflow Chiller ===
{{main|Counterflow Chiller}}
[[DIY:How_to_make_a_Counter_Flow_Chiller]]

[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/How_to_make_a_Counter_Flow_Chiller]

=== Plate Chiller ===
{{main|Plate Chiller}}

== Tools/Accessories ==

=== Grain Mill ===
{{main|Grain Mill}}

=== Thermometer ===
{{main|Thermometer}}

=== Hydrometer ===
{{main|Hydrometer}}

=== PH Meter/Test Strips ===

=== Spoons ===

=== Vinyl Tubing ===

=== Pyrex ===

== Fermenting and Conditioning ==
Many vessels can be used to hold fermenting beer. Common items range from plastic pails to stainless steel [[conical]]s.

=== Bucket ===
{{main|Bucket}}

The most basic vessel is a Food Grade Plastic Pail. These are normally 6-7.5 gallons in capacity and have a lid that can be sealed. The lid has a hole drill into it so a airlock (or blow off tube) may be placed to let gas escape from the fermentation.

=== Carboy ===
{{main|Carboy}}

Another common fermentation vessel, Ranging from 1-6.5 gallons these vessels normally have a 1.25" opening on the top. A drilled rubber bung is placed in this opening to accommodate an airlock (also a 1" ID tube may be use for a [[Blow off Tube|blow off tube]]).

=== Conical ===
{{main|Conical}}

An advanced fermentation vessel used in home brewing is the [[Conical]] fermenter. Made of durable Stainless Steel and ranging from 7.5 gallons to in excess of 30 gallons these are the preferred fermenter of professional brewers.

=== Fermentation cabinet ===
{{main|Fermentation cabinet}}

An insulated cabinet for keeping the fermentation temperature cool or at a set temperature. They can me made from a refrigerator or custom made from insulation material.

=== Walk-in Cooler ===
{{main|Walk-in Cooler}}

A dedicated room that is insulated and chilled.

== Airlocks ==
{{main|Airlocks}}

Fitted to a fermenter to allow CO2 out of the fermenter but keep out contamination. Generally available in 3 styles.

== Bottling, Kegging and Casking==

===Bottling===
[[Image:2-handle-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Kinda hard.]]
[[Image:bench-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Much Easier.]]
Many beginning brewers prefer bottling their beer, as it requires a much smaller initial investment, and allows more portability if one desires to share their homebrew. 12oz and 22oz [[bottles]] seem to be the most commonly used, although 16oz and 500ml bottles are also somewhat common. 750ml Belgian-style bottles can be used as well, but they require corks, a corker, and wire cages to hold the corks in place when carbonation builds in the bottles. Twist top bottles are normally avoided, although some homebrewers say they can be used without concern about a proper seal.

Disadvantages of bottling include sanitization, which can be difficult with so many [[bottles]]. A typical 5 gallon batch will yield approximately fifty 12oz bottles, forty 16oz bottles, or twenty-five 750ml bottles. There are also risks with handling glass as opposed to a metal keg, which has virtually no risk of breaking.

=== Kegging ===
{{main|Kegging}}

It is for these reasons that many homebrewers take up [[kegging]], which normally involves transferring a five gallon batch of beer into a five gallon [[cornelius]], or corny, [[kegs]].

Advantages of kegging include the fact that only one container needs to be sanitized for an entire batch, the fact that serving sizes can be as large or as small as desired, and the ability to more quickly carbonate and drink batches in kegs.

However, the initial investment for kegging can be quite high, as it generally includes purchasing at least one keg, all the equipment needed for carbonating beer, and more than likely, a separate refrigerator to store and chill [[kegs]]. Also, transporting a keg is not as easy as moving a few bottles if that is all that is needed, although it can be done.

[[Image:kegsetup.jpg|thumb|100px|right|‎]]

=== Casks ===
{{main|Casks}}

A vessel for condition and serving "[[Real Ale]]" without force carbonating.

=== Mini Kegs ===
{{main|Mini Kegs}}

5 litre reusable kegs

=== Party Pigs ===
{{main|Party Pigs}}

The Party Pig® is a self contained 8.5 liter (2.25 gallon) reusable beer package/dispenser.

=== Polypins ===
{{main|Polypins}}

Low-cost beer containers for 'real ales'. Heavy duty polythene cube with combined cap/dispensing tap contained in a strong cardboard box. Usually used with a [[Beer Engine]]s

== Serving ==

=== Kegerators ===
{{main|Kegerator}}

A refrigerator for serving draft beer modified with tap handles, kegs, a CO2 tank and all of the serving and gas lines to connect it all. They can be built out of small mini fridges, regular household refrigerators, chest freezers and even commercial walk-in fridges.

=== Jockey boxes ===
{{main|Jockey box}}

Utilizes an ice chest and a metal coil to chill beer. Works like a reverse immersion wort chiller.

=== Beer Engines ===
{{main|Beer Engine}}

[[Image:Beer_Engine.JPG‎|thumb|100px|]]

* Beer line
* Push fittings
* CO2

Category:Beer equipment

2008-04-25T14:05:31Z

Mmb: /* Counterflow Chiller */

[[Category:Beer]]
[[Image:Kit.jpg|thumb|100px|left|‎]]
{{Beer}}
The equipment used in homebrewing ranges from simple household items to ingenious homemade gear to commercially-produced equipment, all designed to meet the needs of home brewers from the most humble to the most affluent.

The most basic peices of equipment needed to make beer at home are a pot or kettle and a long-handled spoon for stirring. Pots designed for use on a range or a propane or natural gas burner may be made of stainless steel, aluminum, or enameled steel. You can even use plastic buckets with sealed electrical heating elements installed. The most useful kettles are those with a minimum capacity of at least twelve quarts, and may range up in size to 30, 40, even 120 gallons or more. But the most common sizes among home brewers are those ranging from twelve to sixty or so quarts.

The brewing equipment can be classed into 3 main groups.

* Wort Production
* Boiling Equipment
* Fermentation Equipment

== Brewing kits ==
{{main|Brewing kits}}

Different equipment is required for the different methods of brewing; the more involved methods generally require additional equipment.

Beginning brewers can purchase extract brewing kits which typically contain two 6.5 gallon food grade buckets, a lid with a hole and grommet, a spigot which attaches to one of the buckets, an airlock, a length of vinyl tubing, a hydrometer, and a bottle capper.

As the complexity of the brewing process increases, additional equipment such as glass carboys, mash tuns, lauter tuns, and heat sources can be added.

Some all grain brewers have their brewing equipment assembled onto a [[Brewing Sculpture]], whilst other leave there kit as separate components allowing them more flexibility in how and where they brew.

== Hot Liquor Tun ==
{{main|Hot Liquor Tun}}

A simple vessel for heating and storing the hot liquor (water) required for mashing and sparging the grain.

== Mash/Lauter Tun ==

=== Mash Tun ===
{{main|Mash Tun}}

* A vessel to hold the grain and water at the required temperature(s) to allow the starch in the grain to be converted by enzymes to sugar.

=== Lauter Tun ===
{{main|Lauter Tun}}

A vessel to rinse the sugar from the grains. Basically a strainer. The Lauter Tun can be the same vessel as the [[Mash Tun]].

=== Mash/Lauter Tun Parts ===

==== Converted Cooler ====
[[Image:Mashtun-1-.jpg|100px|right|thumb|converted cooler]]‎
A cooler makes an ideal mash/lauter tun for the Homebrewer. It is easily machined, water tight and any but the cheapest cooler will hold the mash within the required temperature for the required time. The cooler can be used without modification but for ease of use a few small additions will turn it in to an efficient mash tun. A strainer and a tap are the most useful additions. The strainer can be plastic/copper manifold or a simple stainless steal braided pipe cover.

[[Converting a cooler to a mash tun]]

=== Recirculating mash systems ===
{{main|Recirculating mash systems}}

A recirculating system is designed to hold the mash at a stable temperature during the mash by removing some of the liquid part of the mash, heating it, and returning it to the mash tun. Recirculating systems, such as [[RIMS]] and [[HERMS]] systems, result in clearer wort and a very stable, repeatable mash temperature.

== Brew Pot ==
; Stainless Steel : The chosen material for many brewers due to ease of cleaning, strength and durability. It is more difficult to machine and modify than Aluminum. The thermal conductivity of stainless steel is 8.09-8.11BTU/(hr-ft-*F) depending on the alloy.

; Aluminum : Lightweight, cheap, easy to machine. There are always discussions on the safety and durability but there seems to be no strong evidence of any problems. Used by many brewers with good results. It is important that the aluminum has an intact protective oxide layer - this will be obvious as it will look dull and cloudy. The oxide layer can be generated by boiling water in the pot prior to use for brewing. Caustic products should not be used for cleaning and the pot should not be scrubbed bright, as this will damage the oxide. Another advantage of aluminum is it's thermal conductivity is much higher than stainless steel's at 136BTU/(hr-ft-*F).

; Enameled Steel : Usually cheap and easy to find although more common in sizes of 1 to 3 gallon. Care needs to make sure if they are old that they do not contain lead. Care also needs to be taken not to chip the enamel.

; [[Keggle]] or Converted Kegs : Made from converted brewers kegs. Durable and rust proof. It should be confirmed that they are not Still owned by a brewery. The top is cut out and couplers or nipples welded in for spigots and other accessories.

; [[Electric Boiler]] :

== Heat Sources ==

=== Stove Top Range - Electric ===
The method of choice (or, of last resort) for many a new brewer and apartment-dweller. Most electric ranges are acceptable to reach a rolling boil with a partial boil. However, once a brewer decides to go All-Grain, which requires full boils, most electric ranges are woefully inadequate. In this case, it can take over an hour to heat the wort to boiling, and keeping a rolling boil going is exceedingly difficult.

=== Stove Top Range - Gas ===
While generally better than electric ranges, the typical residential gas range is still less than optimal for full boils.

=== Propane Burner ===
{{main|Propane Burner}}

Widely available from homebrew supply shops, DIY superstores, and various online retailers, propane burners are the weapon of choice for many brewers. Available in different BTU ranges, these burners are typically standalone units that the user hooks up to a standard gas-grill-type propane tank. The heat output from most propane burners is usually adequate for partial and full boils. Some Brewers have had success with burners rated at 30,000 BTU for five Gallon Boils, Others prefer to go for 200,000 BTU units.

=== Turkey Fryer ===
{{main|Turkey Fryer}}

The "poor-man's propane burner". In the month or so preceding Thanksgiving each year, many retailers (see: Wal-Mart, Target) stock Turkey Fryer Kits. The units are propane-fired, like the [[propane burner]], but typically do not have the BTU ratings of standalone propane burners. Often, the kits come with thermometers and aluminum kettles, which serves as an added bonus for the cost-conscious homebrewer. These units, while typically in the 55,000-BTU range, are adequate for full 5 gallon boils. Turkey fryers are not readily available outside of the USA.

=== Electric Heating Element ===
{{main|Electric Heating Element}}

These can be of several types. Electric kettle elements, Immersion heater elements are designed to be in contact with the liquid to be heated, cleaning and scorching the wort can be an issue with this type of element. Some boilers have the heating element under a false bottom and is not in contact with the liquid.

=== Natural Gas Burner ===
{{main|Natural Gas Burner}}

A heating element consisting of multiple jets through which natural gas is distributed and ignited. Most commonly found on kitchen stove tops or outdoor grills designed to use natural gas. Kitchen gas ranges and outdoor grill side burners average less than 20,000 BTUs, making them unsuitable for homebrewing operations larger than about 3 gallons. Less common, but more well suited to homebrewing, are larger natural gas burners with outputs as high as 200,000 BTUs available through outdoor grill suppliers and specialty shops.

=== Steam ===
{{main|Steam}}

== Cooling Devices ==
After boiling, wort needs to cooled to a suitable temperature for pitching yeast. It needs to be done as quickly as possible for a number of reasons including reduction of DMS, limit exposure to potential infections, and assist in cold break. Several devices available to the home brewer, including both commercially manufactured and home made, are used in this important step. [[User:Bobby M|Bobby M]] 14:28, 12 February 2007 (CST)

=== Ice ===
For the extract brewer, ice is one of the most economical ways to quickly chill wort. It is typically used in two different ways.

# It can be used in place of top off water when one boils only part of the overall volume of the batch. Care must be taken that the ice itself is free of contaminants because it will become part of the finished beer. The brewer my pre-boil some water to sanitize and transfer it to a sanitized container (Tupperware, etc) and placed in the freezer. This ice is placed into the primary fermenter and the hot wort is carefully transferred onto it. The resulting temperature is usually within acceptable yeast pitching range.
# The second use of ice is to make an ice water bath into which the boiling kettle is immersed. This method of cooling takes some time due to the limited surface area between the hot and cold liquid. Faster cooling may be achieved by gently stirring both the hot wort and ice water occasionally as long as the spoon used in the wort is sanitized.

=== Immersion Chiller ===
{{main|Immersion Chiller}}

An immersion chiller is basically a copper tube that has been coiled so that it can fit inside of your brew pot. It is usually added to your brew pot 15 minutes before the end of your boil, thus sanitizing the copper. At the end of your boil, water is ran through the copper, extracting heat from your wort. *Be careful of the water leaving the chiller, it will be extremely hot for the first 5 minutes or so*

=== Counterflow Chiller ===
{{main|Counterflow Chiller}}
[[DIY:How_to_make_a_Counter_Flow_Chiller]]
[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/How_to_make_a_Counter_Flow_Chiller]

=== Plate Chiller ===
{{main|Plate Chiller}}

== Tools/Accessories ==

=== Grain Mill ===
{{main|Grain Mill}}

=== Thermometer ===
{{main|Thermometer}}

=== Hydrometer ===
{{main|Hydrometer}}

=== PH Meter/Test Strips ===

=== Spoons ===

=== Vinyl Tubing ===

=== Pyrex ===

== Fermenting and Conditioning ==
Many vessels can be used to hold fermenting beer. Common items range from plastic pails to stainless steel [[conical]]s.

=== Bucket ===
{{main|Bucket}}

The most basic vessel is a Food Grade Plastic Pail. These are normally 6-7.5 gallons in capacity and have a lid that can be sealed. The lid has a hole drill into it so a airlock (or blow off tube) may be placed to let gas escape from the fermentation.

=== Carboy ===
{{main|Carboy}}

Another common fermentation vessel, Ranging from 1-6.5 gallons these vessels normally have a 1.25" opening on the top. A drilled rubber bung is placed in this opening to accommodate an airlock (also a 1" ID tube may be use for a [[Blow off Tube|blow off tube]]).

=== Conical ===
{{main|Conical}}

An advanced fermentation vessel used in home brewing is the [[Conical]] fermenter. Made of durable Stainless Steel and ranging from 7.5 gallons to in excess of 30 gallons these are the preferred fermenter of professional brewers.

=== Fermentation cabinet ===
{{main|Fermentation cabinet}}

An insulated cabinet for keeping the fermentation temperature cool or at a set temperature. They can me made from a refrigerator or custom made from insulation material.

=== Walk-in Cooler ===
{{main|Walk-in Cooler}}

A dedicated room that is insulated and chilled.

== Airlocks ==
{{main|Airlocks}}

Fitted to a fermenter to allow CO2 out of the fermenter but keep out contamination. Generally available in 3 styles.

== Bottling, Kegging and Casking==

===Bottling===
[[Image:2-handle-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Kinda hard.]]
[[Image:bench-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Much Easier.]]
Many beginning brewers prefer bottling their beer, as it requires a much smaller initial investment, and allows more portability if one desires to share their homebrew. 12oz and 22oz [[bottles]] seem to be the most commonly used, although 16oz and 500ml bottles are also somewhat common. 750ml Belgian-style bottles can be used as well, but they require corks, a corker, and wire cages to hold the corks in place when carbonation builds in the bottles. Twist top bottles are normally avoided, although some homebrewers say they can be used without concern about a proper seal.

Disadvantages of bottling include sanitization, which can be difficult with so many [[bottles]]. A typical 5 gallon batch will yield approximately fifty 12oz bottles, forty 16oz bottles, or twenty-five 750ml bottles. There are also risks with handling glass as opposed to a metal keg, which has virtually no risk of breaking.

=== Kegging ===
{{main|Kegging}}

It is for these reasons that many homebrewers take up [[kegging]], which normally involves transferring a five gallon batch of beer into a five gallon [[cornelius]], or corny, [[kegs]].

Advantages of kegging include the fact that only one container needs to be sanitized for an entire batch, the fact that serving sizes can be as large or as small as desired, and the ability to more quickly carbonate and drink batches in kegs.

However, the initial investment for kegging can be quite high, as it generally includes purchasing at least one keg, all the equipment needed for carbonating beer, and more than likely, a separate refrigerator to store and chill [[kegs]]. Also, transporting a keg is not as easy as moving a few bottles if that is all that is needed, although it can be done.

[[Image:kegsetup.jpg|thumb|100px|right|‎]]

=== Casks ===
{{main|Casks}}

A vessel for condition and serving "[[Real Ale]]" without force carbonating.

=== Mini Kegs ===
{{main|Mini Kegs}}

5 litre reusable kegs

=== Party Pigs ===
{{main|Party Pigs}}

The Party Pig® is a self contained 8.5 liter (2.25 gallon) reusable beer package/dispenser.

=== Polypins ===
{{main|Polypins}}

Low-cost beer containers for 'real ales'. Heavy duty polythene cube with combined cap/dispensing tap contained in a strong cardboard box. Usually used with a [[Beer Engine]]s

== Serving ==

=== Kegerators ===
{{main|Kegerator}}

A refrigerator for serving draft beer modified with tap handles, kegs, a CO2 tank and all of the serving and gas lines to connect it all. They can be built out of small mini fridges, regular household refrigerators, chest freezers and even commercial walk-in fridges.

=== Jockey boxes ===
{{main|Jockey box}}

Utilizes an ice chest and a metal coil to chill beer. Works like a reverse immersion wort chiller.

=== Beer Engines ===
{{main|Beer Engine}}

[[Image:Beer_Engine.JPG‎|thumb|100px|]]

* Beer line
* Push fittings
* CO2

Category:Beer equipment

2008-04-25T13:23:45Z

Mmb: /* Counterflow Chiller */

[[Category:Beer]]
[[Image:Kit.jpg|thumb|100px|left|‎]]
{{Beer}}
The equipment used in homebrewing ranges from simple household items to ingenious homemade gear to commercially-produced equipment, all designed to meet the needs of home brewers from the most humble to the most affluent.

The most basic peices of equipment needed to make beer at home are a pot or kettle and a long-handled spoon for stirring. Pots designed for use on a range or a propane or natural gas burner may be made of stainless steel, aluminum, or enameled steel. You can even use plastic buckets with sealed electrical heating elements installed. The most useful kettles are those with a minimum capacity of at least twelve quarts, and may range up in size to 30, 40, even 120 gallons or more. But the most common sizes among home brewers are those ranging from twelve to sixty or so quarts.

The brewing equipment can be classed into 3 main groups.

* Wort Production
* Boiling Equipment
* Fermentation Equipment

== Brewing kits ==
{{main|Brewing kits}}

Different equipment is required for the different methods of brewing; the more involved methods generally require additional equipment.

Beginning brewers can purchase extract brewing kits which typically contain two 6.5 gallon food grade buckets, a lid with a hole and grommet, a spigot which attaches to one of the buckets, an airlock, a length of vinyl tubing, a hydrometer, and a bottle capper.

As the complexity of the brewing process increases, additional equipment such as glass carboys, mash tuns, lauter tuns, and heat sources can be added.

Some all grain brewers have their brewing equipment assembled onto a [[Brewing Sculpture]], whilst other leave there kit as separate components allowing them more flexibility in how and where they brew.

== Hot Liquor Tun ==
{{main|Hot Liquor Tun}}

A simple vessel for heating and storing the hot liquor (water) required for mashing and sparging the grain.

== Mash/Lauter Tun ==

=== Mash Tun ===
{{main|Mash Tun}}

* A vessel to hold the grain and water at the required temperature(s) to allow the starch in the grain to be converted by enzymes to sugar.

=== Lauter Tun ===
{{main|Lauter Tun}}

A vessel to rinse the sugar from the grains. Basically a strainer. The Lauter Tun can be the same vessel as the [[Mash Tun]].

=== Mash/Lauter Tun Parts ===

==== Converted Cooler ====
[[Image:Mashtun-1-.jpg|100px|right|thumb|converted cooler]]‎
A cooler makes an ideal mash/lauter tun for the Homebrewer. It is easily machined, water tight and any but the cheapest cooler will hold the mash within the required temperature for the required time. The cooler can be used without modification but for ease of use a few small additions will turn it in to an efficient mash tun. A strainer and a tap are the most useful additions. The strainer can be plastic/copper manifold or a simple stainless steal braided pipe cover.

[[Converting a cooler to a mash tun]]

=== Recirculating mash systems ===
{{main|Recirculating mash systems}}

A recirculating system is designed to hold the mash at a stable temperature during the mash by removing some of the liquid part of the mash, heating it, and returning it to the mash tun. Recirculating systems, such as [[RIMS]] and [[HERMS]] systems, result in clearer wort and a very stable, repeatable mash temperature.

== Brew Pot ==
; Stainless Steel : The chosen material for many brewers due to ease of cleaning, strength and durability. It is more difficult to machine and modify than Aluminum. The thermal conductivity of stainless steel is 8.09-8.11BTU/(hr-ft-*F) depending on the alloy.

; Aluminum : Lightweight, cheap, easy to machine. There are always discussions on the safety and durability but there seems to be no strong evidence of any problems. Used by many brewers with good results. It is important that the aluminum has an intact protective oxide layer - this will be obvious as it will look dull and cloudy. The oxide layer can be generated by boiling water in the pot prior to use for brewing. Caustic products should not be used for cleaning and the pot should not be scrubbed bright, as this will damage the oxide. Another advantage of aluminum is it's thermal conductivity is much higher than stainless steel's at 136BTU/(hr-ft-*F).

; Enameled Steel : Usually cheap and easy to find although more common in sizes of 1 to 3 gallon. Care needs to make sure if they are old that they do not contain lead. Care also needs to be taken not to chip the enamel.

; [[Keggle]] or Converted Kegs : Made from converted brewers kegs. Durable and rust proof. It should be confirmed that they are not Still owned by a brewery. The top is cut out and couplers or nipples welded in for spigots and other accessories.

; [[Electric Boiler]] :

== Heat Sources ==

=== Stove Top Range - Electric ===
The method of choice (or, of last resort) for many a new brewer and apartment-dweller. Most electric ranges are acceptable to reach a rolling boil with a partial boil. However, once a brewer decides to go All-Grain, which requires full boils, most electric ranges are woefully inadequate. In this case, it can take over an hour to heat the wort to boiling, and keeping a rolling boil going is exceedingly difficult.

=== Stove Top Range - Gas ===
While generally better than electric ranges, the typical residential gas range is still less than optimal for full boils.

=== Propane Burner ===
{{main|Propane Burner}}

Widely available from homebrew supply shops, DIY superstores, and various online retailers, propane burners are the weapon of choice for many brewers. Available in different BTU ranges, these burners are typically standalone units that the user hooks up to a standard gas-grill-type propane tank. The heat output from most propane burners is usually adequate for partial and full boils. Some Brewers have had success with burners rated at 30,000 BTU for five Gallon Boils, Others prefer to go for 200,000 BTU units.

=== Turkey Fryer ===
{{main|Turkey Fryer}}

The "poor-man's propane burner". In the month or so preceding Thanksgiving each year, many retailers (see: Wal-Mart, Target) stock Turkey Fryer Kits. The units are propane-fired, like the [[propane burner]], but typically do not have the BTU ratings of standalone propane burners. Often, the kits come with thermometers and aluminum kettles, which serves as an added bonus for the cost-conscious homebrewer. These units, while typically in the 55,000-BTU range, are adequate for full 5 gallon boils. Turkey fryers are not readily available outside of the USA.

=== Electric Heating Element ===
{{main|Electric Heating Element}}

These can be of several types. Electric kettle elements, Immersion heater elements are designed to be in contact with the liquid to be heated, cleaning and scorching the wort can be an issue with this type of element. Some boilers have the heating element under a false bottom and is not in contact with the liquid.

=== Natural Gas Burner ===
{{main|Natural Gas Burner}}

A heating element consisting of multiple jets through which natural gas is distributed and ignited. Most commonly found on kitchen stove tops or outdoor grills designed to use natural gas. Kitchen gas ranges and outdoor grill side burners average less than 20,000 BTUs, making them unsuitable for homebrewing operations larger than about 3 gallons. Less common, but more well suited to homebrewing, are larger natural gas burners with outputs as high as 200,000 BTUs available through outdoor grill suppliers and specialty shops.

=== Steam ===
{{main|Steam}}

== Cooling Devices ==
After boiling, wort needs to cooled to a suitable temperature for pitching yeast. It needs to be done as quickly as possible for a number of reasons including reduction of DMS, limit exposure to potential infections, and assist in cold break. Several devices available to the home brewer, including both commercially manufactured and home made, are used in this important step. [[User:Bobby M|Bobby M]] 14:28, 12 February 2007 (CST)

=== Ice ===
For the extract brewer, ice is one of the most economical ways to quickly chill wort. It is typically used in two different ways.

# It can be used in place of top off water when one boils only part of the overall volume of the batch. Care must be taken that the ice itself is free of contaminants because it will become part of the finished beer. The brewer my pre-boil some water to sanitize and transfer it to a sanitized container (Tupperware, etc) and placed in the freezer. This ice is placed into the primary fermenter and the hot wort is carefully transferred onto it. The resulting temperature is usually within acceptable yeast pitching range.
# The second use of ice is to make an ice water bath into which the boiling kettle is immersed. This method of cooling takes some time due to the limited surface area between the hot and cold liquid. Faster cooling may be achieved by gently stirring both the hot wort and ice water occasionally as long as the spoon used in the wort is sanitized.

=== Immersion Chiller ===
{{main|Immersion Chiller}}

An immersion chiller is basically a copper tube that has been coiled so that it can fit inside of your brew pot. It is usually added to your brew pot 15 minutes before the end of your boil, thus sanitizing the copper. At the end of your boil, water is ran through the copper, extracting heat from your wort. *Be careful of the water leaving the chiller, it will be extremely hot for the first 5 minutes or so*

=== Counterflow Chiller ===
{{main|Counterflow Chiller}}
{{DIY|How to make a Counter Flow Chiller}}

=== Plate Chiller ===
{{main|Plate Chiller}}

== Tools/Accessories ==

=== Grain Mill ===
{{main|Grain Mill}}

=== Thermometer ===
{{main|Thermometer}}

=== Hydrometer ===
{{main|Hydrometer}}

=== PH Meter/Test Strips ===

=== Spoons ===

=== Vinyl Tubing ===

=== Pyrex ===

== Fermenting and Conditioning ==
Many vessels can be used to hold fermenting beer. Common items range from plastic pails to stainless steel [[conical]]s.

=== Bucket ===
{{main|Bucket}}

The most basic vessel is a Food Grade Plastic Pail. These are normally 6-7.5 gallons in capacity and have a lid that can be sealed. The lid has a hole drill into it so a airlock (or blow off tube) may be placed to let gas escape from the fermentation.

=== Carboy ===
{{main|Carboy}}

Another common fermentation vessel, Ranging from 1-6.5 gallons these vessels normally have a 1.25" opening on the top. A drilled rubber bung is placed in this opening to accommodate an airlock (also a 1" ID tube may be use for a [[Blow off Tube|blow off tube]]).

=== Conical ===
{{main|Conical}}

An advanced fermentation vessel used in home brewing is the [[Conical]] fermenter. Made of durable Stainless Steel and ranging from 7.5 gallons to in excess of 30 gallons these are the preferred fermenter of professional brewers.

=== Fermentation cabinet ===
{{main|Fermentation cabinet}}

An insulated cabinet for keeping the fermentation temperature cool or at a set temperature. They can me made from a refrigerator or custom made from insulation material.

=== Walk-in Cooler ===
{{main|Walk-in Cooler}}

A dedicated room that is insulated and chilled.

== Airlocks ==
{{main|Airlocks}}

Fitted to a fermenter to allow CO2 out of the fermenter but keep out contamination. Generally available in 3 styles.

== Bottling, Kegging and Casking==

===Bottling===
[[Image:2-handle-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Kinda hard.]]
[[Image:bench-capper.jpg|thumb|100px|Much Easier.]]
Many beginning brewers prefer bottling their beer, as it requires a much smaller initial investment, and allows more portability if one desires to share their homebrew. 12oz and 22oz [[bottles]] seem to be the most commonly used, although 16oz and 500ml bottles are also somewhat common. 750ml Belgian-style bottles can be used as well, but they require corks, a corker, and wire cages to hold the corks in place when carbonation builds in the bottles. Twist top bottles are normally avoided, although some homebrewers say they can be used without concern about a proper seal.

Disadvantages of bottling include sanitization, which can be difficult with so many [[bottles]]. A typical 5 gallon batch will yield approximately fifty 12oz bottles, forty 16oz bottles, or twenty-five 750ml bottles. There are also risks with handling glass as opposed to a metal keg, which has virtually no risk of breaking.

=== Kegging ===
{{main|Kegging}}

It is for these reasons that many homebrewers take up [[kegging]], which normally involves transferring a five gallon batch of beer into a five gallon [[cornelius]], or corny, [[kegs]].

Advantages of kegging include the fact that only one container needs to be sanitized for an entire batch, the fact that serving sizes can be as large or as small as desired, and the ability to more quickly carbonate and drink batches in kegs.

However, the initial investment for kegging can be quite high, as it generally includes purchasing at least one keg, all the equipment needed for carbonating beer, and more than likely, a separate refrigerator to store and chill [[kegs]]. Also, transporting a keg is not as easy as moving a few bottles if that is all that is needed, although it can be done.

[[Image:kegsetup.jpg|thumb|100px|right|‎]]

=== Casks ===
{{main|Casks}}

A vessel for condition and serving "[[Real Ale]]" without force carbonating.

=== Mini Kegs ===
{{main|Mini Kegs}}

5 litre reusable kegs

=== Party Pigs ===
{{main|Party Pigs}}

The Party Pig® is a self contained 8.5 liter (2.25 gallon) reusable beer package/dispenser.

=== Polypins ===
{{main|Polypins}}

Low-cost beer containers for 'real ales'. Heavy duty polythene cube with combined cap/dispensing tap contained in a strong cardboard box. Usually used with a [[Beer Engine]]s

== Serving ==

=== Kegerators ===
{{main|Kegerator}}

A refrigerator for serving draft beer modified with tap handles, kegs, a CO2 tank and all of the serving and gas lines to connect it all. They can be built out of small mini fridges, regular household refrigerators, chest freezers and even commercial walk-in fridges.

=== Jockey boxes ===
{{main|Jockey box}}

Utilizes an ice chest and a metal coil to chill beer. Works like a reverse immersion wort chiller.

=== Beer Engines ===
{{main|Beer Engine}}

[[Image:Beer_Engine.JPG‎|thumb|100px|]]

* Beer line
* Push fittings
* CO2

How to make a Counter Flow Chiller

2008-04-25T13:22:10Z

Mmb:

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Beer]]
[[Category:Beer_equipment]]
This is the cheapest way to put a CFC together and doesn't use any pricy compression fittings.
It requires soldering, but you ought to know how to do that already. No? Shame. Here's what we're building:

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc.jpg]]

Part list:

(1) 12" x 1/2" copper pipe

(2) 1/2" copper TEEs
(2) 1/2" x 1/4" copper reducers
(1) 25' x 3/8" OD soft copper tubing
(1) 25' x 5/8" ID rubber garden hose
(make sure it's rubber. It will be the only one that does NOT say "do not use with hot water".)
(4) hose clamps.

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc3.jpg]]

You'll also need some emery cloth (sandpaper), a round wire brush, flux, solder, tubing cutter, and a propane torch.

The first step is to create the end assemblies:
Completely clean the 1/2" copper pipe by sanding it with emery cloth, then cut it into six 2-inch pieces with the tubing cutter.
Clean the insides of the Tees and reducers with the round wire brush. Apply a liberal amount of flux paste and assemble to look like this:

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc1.jpg]]

Apply the propane flame and keep it moving but focus mostly on the Tee. Keep testing the temp by removing the flame and touching solder to the joint. If it doesn't flow, apply a little more heat. Don't overheat. You should see the solder being sucked into the joint. A solder joint does not seal due to an apparent bead on the outside of the fitting so don't build it up too much. Once it starts dripping out and falling on the floor, you have more than enough in the joint.

The next thing you do is cut the last 10" off of each end of the garden hose. Unroll the soft copper tubing carefully into a straight line. Make up a very soapy solution of dish soap and water and pour it into the hose with a funnel. You can also lubricate with something like KY as long as it's water soluble. Don't try working the copper inside the hose without a lube, you'll only get it about 1/3rd of the way before you start cursing. You'll want to center the hose on the copper so that about 10" of copper sticks out on each end.

On one end, clean the lubricant off the copper and use the emery cloth to thoroughly clean the copper in prep for soldering. Apply flux to the copper and inside of the reducer on one of the end assemblies and slide it on. For this soldering job, you can slide the rubber hose out of the way, but take note of where the assembly has to sit first. Once you solder the reducer to the inner tubing, you can slide the rubber hose over the end assembly and clamp the hose on tightly.

You not have to select a cylindrical object to coil the hose around and I'd suggest going at least 12" in diameter. Start coiling from the end that you've just soldered. Coil it nice and tight as uniformly as possible. A lot of people use large tie wraps or electrical tape to hold the coil in position. I had some strips of galvanized metal on hand so I made rigid straps. Take your pick, but you'll want to secure the coil in some way to keep it from unraveling and looking like Shhhh...

You'll finish the project by cleaning the copper on the other end and soldering it on in the same way. Clamp the hose on first but in this case, you need to be careful not to burn the hose. Get a rag soaked in cold water and lay it over the hose to keep it cool.

Clamp the leftover hose ends to the Tees. The coolant water goes in on the end that you want to be the wort outflow (hence "counterflow").

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc4.jpg]]

Before you use it, boil a few gallons of water with about a quart of white vinegar and drain it all through the inside a few times, then run clean water through. Of course, you'll also need to sanitize just prior to use by running starsan through or recirculating hot wort through it if you have a pump (without the coolant water running obviously).

----
Originally posted to Home Brew Talk forum by member Bobby_M at 01-19-2008, 10:50 AM
[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=51793]

How to make a Counter Flow Chiller

2008-04-25T13:20:38Z

Mmb:

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Beer]]
This is the cheapest way to put a CFC together and doesn't use any pricy compression fittings.
It requires soldering, but you ought to know how to do that already. No? Shame. Here's what we're building:

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc.jpg]]

Part list:

(1) 12" x 1/2" copper pipe

(2) 1/2" copper TEEs
(2) 1/2" x 1/4" copper reducers
(1) 25' x 3/8" OD soft copper tubing
(1) 25' x 5/8" ID rubber garden hose
(make sure it's rubber. It will be the only one that does NOT say "do not use with hot water".)
(4) hose clamps.

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc3.jpg]]

You'll also need some emery cloth (sandpaper), a round wire brush, flux, solder, tubing cutter, and a propane torch.

The first step is to create the end assemblies:
Completely clean the 1/2" copper pipe by sanding it with emery cloth, then cut it into six 2-inch pieces with the tubing cutter.
Clean the insides of the Tees and reducers with the round wire brush. Apply a liberal amount of flux paste and assemble to look like this:

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc1.jpg]]

Apply the propane flame and keep it moving but focus mostly on the Tee. Keep testing the temp by removing the flame and touching solder to the joint. If it doesn't flow, apply a little more heat. Don't overheat. You should see the solder being sucked into the joint. A solder joint does not seal due to an apparent bead on the outside of the fitting so don't build it up too much. Once it starts dripping out and falling on the floor, you have more than enough in the joint.

The next thing you do is cut the last 10" off of each end of the garden hose. Unroll the soft copper tubing carefully into a straight line. Make up a very soapy solution of dish soap and water and pour it into the hose with a funnel. You can also lubricate with something like KY as long as it's water soluble. Don't try working the copper inside the hose without a lube, you'll only get it about 1/3rd of the way before you start cursing. You'll want to center the hose on the copper so that about 10" of copper sticks out on each end.

On one end, clean the lubricant off the copper and use the emery cloth to thoroughly clean the copper in prep for soldering. Apply flux to the copper and inside of the reducer on one of the end assemblies and slide it on. For this soldering job, you can slide the rubber hose out of the way, but take note of where the assembly has to sit first. Once you solder the reducer to the inner tubing, you can slide the rubber hose over the end assembly and clamp the hose on tightly.

You not have to select a cylindrical object to coil the hose around and I'd suggest going at least 12" in diameter. Start coiling from the end that you've just soldered. Coil it nice and tight as uniformly as possible. A lot of people use large tie wraps or electrical tape to hold the coil in position. I had some strips of galvanized metal on hand so I made rigid straps. Take your pick, but you'll want to secure the coil in some way to keep it from unraveling and looking like Shhhh...

You'll finish the project by cleaning the copper on the other end and soldering it on in the same way. Clamp the hose on first but in this case, you need to be careful not to burn the hose. Get a rag soaked in cold water and lay it over the hose to keep it cool.

Clamp the leftover hose ends to the Tees. The coolant water goes in on the end that you want to be the wort outflow (hence "counterflow").

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc4.jpg]]

Before you use it, boil a few gallons of water with about a quart of white vinegar and drain it all through the inside a few times, then run clean water through. Of course, you'll also need to sanitize just prior to use by running starsan through or recirculating hot wort through it if you have a pump (without the coolant water running obviously).

----
Originally posted to Home Brew Talk forum by member Bobby_M at 01-19-2008, 10:50 AM
[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=51793]

How to make a Counter Flow Chiller

2008-04-25T13:14:55Z

Mmb:

[[Category:DIY]]

This is the cheapest way to put a CFC together and doesn't use any pricy compression fittings.
It requires soldering, but you ought to know how to do that already. No? Shame. Here's what we're building:

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc.jpg]]

Part list:

(1) 12" x 1/2" copper pipe

(2) 1/2" copper TEEs
(2) 1/2" x 1/4" copper reducers
(1) 25' x 3/8" OD soft copper tubing
(1) 25' x 5/8" ID rubber garden hose
(make sure it's rubber. It will be the only one that does NOT say "do not use with hot water".)
(4) hose clamps.

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc3.jpg]]

You'll also need some emery cloth (sandpaper), a round wire brush, flux, solder, tubing cutter, and a propane torch.

The first step is to create the end assemblies:
Completely clean the 1/2" copper pipe by sanding it with emery cloth, then cut it into six 2-inch pieces with the tubing cutter.
Clean the insides of the Tees and reducers with the round wire brush. Apply a liberal amount of flux paste and assemble to look like this:

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc1.jpg]]

Apply the propane flame and keep it moving but focus mostly on the Tee. Keep testing the temp by removing the flame and touching solder to the joint. If it doesn't flow, apply a little more heat. Don't overheat. You should see the solder being sucked into the joint. A solder joint does not seal due to an apparent bead on the outside of the fitting so don't build it up too much. Once it starts dripping out and falling on the floor, you have more than enough in the joint.

The next thing you do is cut the last 10" off of each end of the garden hose. Unroll the soft copper tubing carefully into a straight line. Make up a very soapy solution of dish soap and water and pour it into the hose with a funnel. You can also lubricate with something like KY as long as it's water soluble. Don't try working the copper inside the hose without a lube, you'll only get it about 1/3rd of the way before you start cursing. You'll want to center the hose on the copper so that about 10" of copper sticks out on each end.

On one end, clean the lubricant off the copper and use the emery cloth to thoroughly clean the copper in prep for soldering. Apply flux to the copper and inside of the reducer on one of the end assemblies and slide it on. For this soldering job, you can slide the rubber hose out of the way, but take note of where the assembly has to sit first. Once you solder the reducer to the inner tubing, you can slide the rubber hose over the end assembly and clamp the hose on tightly.

You not have to select a cylindrical object to coil the hose around and I'd suggest going at least 12" in diameter. Start coiling from the end that you've just soldered. Coil it nice and tight as uniformly as possible. A lot of people use large tie wraps or electrical tape to hold the coil in position. I had some strips of galvanized metal on hand so I made rigid straps. Take your pick, but you'll want to secure the coil in some way to keep it from unraveling and looking like Shhhh...

You'll finish the project by cleaning the copper on the other end and soldering it on in the same way. Clamp the hose on first but in this case, you need to be careful not to burn the hose. Get a rag soaked in cold water and lay it over the hose to keep it cool.

Clamp the leftover hose ends to the Tees. The coolant water goes in on the end that you want to be the wort outflow (hence "counterflow").

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc4.jpg]]

Before you use it, boil a few gallons of water with about a quart of white vinegar and drain it all through the inside a few times, then run clean water through. Of course, you'll also need to sanitize just prior to use by running starsan through or recirculating hot wort through it if you have a pump (without the coolant water running obviously).

----
Originally posted to Home Brew Talk forum by member Bobby_M at 01-19-2008, 10:50 AM
[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=51793]

File:Bobby M cfc1.jpg

2008-04-25T13:12:41Z

Mmb:

File:Bobby M cfc3.jpg

2008-04-25T13:12:14Z

Mmb:

How to make a Counter Flow Chiller

2008-04-25T13:11:52Z

Mmb:

[[Category:DIY]]

This is the cheapest way to put a CFC together and doesn't use any pricy compression fittings.
It requires soldering, but you ought to know how to do that already. No? Shame. Here's what we're building:

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc.jpg]]

Part list:

(1) 12" x 1/2" copper pipe
(2) 1/2" copper TEEs
(2) 1/2" x 1/4" copper reducers
(1) 25' x 3/8" OD soft copper tubing
(1) 25' x 5/8" ID rubber garden hose (make sure it's rubber. It will be the only one that does NOT say "do not use with hot water".)
(4) hose clamps.

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc3.jpg]]

You'll also need some emery cloth (sandpaper), a round wire brush, flux, solder, tubing cutter, and a propane torch.

The first step is to create the end assemblies:
Completely clean the 1/2" copper pipe by sanding it with emery cloth, then cut it into six 2-inch pieces with the tubing cutter.
Clean the insides of the Tees and reducers with the round wire brush. Apply a liberal amount of flux paste and assemble to look like this:

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc1.jpg]]

Apply the propane flame and keep it moving but focus mostly on the Tee. Keep testing the temp by removing the flame and touching solder to the joint. If it doesn't flow, apply a little more heat. Don't overheat. You should see the solder being sucked into the joint. A solder joint does not seal due to an apparent bead on the outside of the fitting so don't build it up too much. Once it starts dripping out and falling on the floor, you have more than enough in the joint.

The next thing you do is cut the last 10" off of each end of the garden hose. Unroll the soft copper tubing carefully into a straight line. Make up a very soapy solution of dish soap and water and pour it into the hose with a funnel. You can also lubricate with something like KY as long as it's water soluble. Don't try working the copper inside the hose without a lube, you'll only get it about 1/3rd of the way before you start cursing. You'll want to center the hose on the copper so that about 10" of copper sticks out on each end.

On one end, clean the lubricant off the copper and use the emery cloth to thoroughly clean the copper in prep for soldering. Apply flux to the copper and inside of the reducer on one of the end assemblies and slide it on. For this soldering job, you can slide the rubber hose out of the way, but take note of where the assembly has to sit first. Once you solder the reducer to the inner tubing, you can slide the rubber hose over the end assembly and clamp the hose on tightly.

You not have to select a cylindrical object to coil the hose around and I'd suggest going at least 12" in diameter. Start coiling from the end that you've just soldered. Coil it nice and tight as uniformly as possible. A lot of people use large tie wraps or electrical tape to hold the coil in position. I had some strips of galvanized metal on hand so I made rigid straps. Take your pick, but you'll want to secure the coil in some way to keep it from unraveling and looking like Shhhh...

You'll finish the project by cleaning the copper on the other end and soldering it on in the same way. Clamp the hose on first but in this case, you need to be careful not to burn the hose. Get a rag soaked in cold water and lay it over the hose to keep it cool.

Clamp the leftover hose ends to the Tees. The coolant water goes in on the end that you want to be the wort outflow (hence "counterflow").

[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc4.jpg]]

Before you use it, boil a few gallons of water with about a quart of white vinegar and drain it all through the inside a few times, then run clean water through. Of course, you'll also need to sanitize just prior to use by running starsan through or recirculating hot wort through it if you have a pump (without the coolant water running obviously).

----
Originally posted to Home Brew Talk forum by member Bobby_M at 01-19-2008, 10:50 AM
[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=51793]

File:Bobby M cfc4.jpg

2008-04-25T13:10:05Z

Mmb: Counter flow chiller close up image of ends

Counter flow chiller close up image of ends

How to make a Counter Flow Chiller

2008-04-25T13:04:03Z

Mmb:

[[Category:DIY]]

This is the cheapest way to put a CFC together and doesn't use any pricy compression fittings. It requires soldering, but you ought to know how to do that already. No? Shame. Here's what we're building:
[[Image:Bobby_M_cfc.jpg]]

Part list:

(1) 12" x 1/2" copper pipe
(2) 1/2" copper TEEs
(2) 1/2" x 1/4" copper reducers
(1) 25' x 3/8" OD soft copper tubing
(1) 25' x 5/8" ID rubber garden hose (make sure it's rubber. It will be the only one that does NOT say "do not use with hot water".)
(4) hose clamps.

You'll also need some emery cloth (sandpaper), a round wire brush, flux, solder, tubing cutter, and a propane torch.

The first step is to create the end assemblies:
Completely clean the 1/2" copper pipe by sanding it with emory cloth, then cut it into six 2-inch pieces with the tubing cutter. Clean the insides of the Tees and reducers with the round wirebrush. Apply a liberal amount of flux paste and assemble to look like this:

Apply the propane flame and keep it moving but focus mostly on the Tee. Keep testing the temp by removing the flame and touching solder to the joint. If it doesn't flow, apply a little more heat. Don't overheat. You should see the solder being sucked into the joint. A solder joint does not seal due to an apparent bead on the outside of the fitting so don't build it up too much. Once it starts dripping out and falling on the floor, you have more than enough in the joint.

The next thing you do is cut the last 10" off of each end of the garden hose. Unroll the soft copper tubing carefully into a straight line. Make up a very soapy solution of dish soap and water and pour it into the hose with a funnel. You can also lubricate with something like KY as long as it's water soluable. Don't try working the copper inside the hose without a lube, you'll only get it about 1/3rd of the way before you start cursing. You'll want to center the hose on the copper so that about 10" of copper sticks out on each end.

On one end, clean the lubricant off the copper and use the emory cloth to thoroughly clean the copper in prep for soldering. Apply flux to the copper and inside of the reducer on one of the end assemblies and slide it on. For this soldering job, you can slide the rubber hose out of the way, but take note of where the assembly has to sit first. Once you solder the reducer to the inner tubing, you can slide the rubber hose over the end assembly and clamp the hose on tightly.

You not have to select a cylindrical object to coil the hose around and I'd suggest going at least 12" in diameter. Start coiling from the end that you've just soldered. Coil it nice and tight as uniformly as possible. A lot of people use large tie wraps or electrical tape to hold the coil in position. I had some strips of galvanized metal on hand so I made rigid straps. Take your pick, but you'll want to secure the coil in some way to keep it from unraveling and looking like Shhhh...

You'll finish the project by cleaning the copper on the other end and soldering it on in the same way. Clamp the hose on first but in this case, you need to be careful not to burn the hose. Get a rag soaked in cold water and lay it over the hose to keep it cool.

Clamp the leftover hose ends to the Tees. The coolant water goes in on the end that you want to be the wort outflow (hence "counterflow").

Before you use it, boil a few gallons of water with about a quart of white vinegar and drain it all through the inside a few times, then run clean water through. Of course, you'll also need to sanitize just prior to use by running starsan through or recirculating hot wort through it if you have a pump (without the coolant water running obviously).

File:Bobby M cfc.jpg

2008-04-25T13:03:17Z

Mmb: Completed Counter Flow Chiller

Completed Counter Flow Chiller

How to make a Counter Flow Chiller

2008-04-25T13:01:18Z

Mmb:

[[Category:DIY]]

This is the cheapest way to put a CFC together and doesn't use any pricy compression fittings. It requires soldering, but you ought to know how to do that already. No? Shame. Here's what we're building:
[[Image:http://www.suebob.com/images/brew/cfc.jpg]]

Part list:

(1) 12" x 1/2" copper pipe
(2) 1/2" copper TEEs
(2) 1/2" x 1/4" copper reducers
(1) 25' x 3/8" OD soft copper tubing
(1) 25' x 5/8" ID rubber garden hose (make sure it's rubber. It will be the only one that does NOT say "do not use with hot water".)
(4) hose clamps.

You'll also need some emery cloth (sandpaper), a round wire brush, flux, solder, tubing cutter, and a propane torch.

The first step is to create the end assemblies:
Completely clean the 1/2" copper pipe by sanding it with emory cloth, then cut it into six 2-inch pieces with the tubing cutter. Clean the insides of the Tees and reducers with the round wirebrush. Apply a liberal amount of flux paste and assemble to look like this:

Apply the propane flame and keep it moving but focus mostly on the Tee. Keep testing the temp by removing the flame and touching solder to the joint. If it doesn't flow, apply a little more heat. Don't overheat. You should see the solder being sucked into the joint. A solder joint does not seal due to an apparent bead on the outside of the fitting so don't build it up too much. Once it starts dripping out and falling on the floor, you have more than enough in the joint.

The next thing you do is cut the last 10" off of each end of the garden hose. Unroll the soft copper tubing carefully into a straight line. Make up a very soapy solution of dish soap and water and pour it into the hose with a funnel. You can also lubricate with something like KY as long as it's water soluable. Don't try working the copper inside the hose without a lube, you'll only get it about 1/3rd of the way before you start cursing. You'll want to center the hose on the copper so that about 10" of copper sticks out on each end.

On one end, clean the lubricant off the copper and use the emory cloth to thoroughly clean the copper in prep for soldering. Apply flux to the copper and inside of the reducer on one of the end assemblies and slide it on. For this soldering job, you can slide the rubber hose out of the way, but take note of where the assembly has to sit first. Once you solder the reducer to the inner tubing, you can slide the rubber hose over the end assembly and clamp the hose on tightly.

You not have to select a cylindrical object to coil the hose around and I'd suggest going at least 12" in diameter. Start coiling from the end that you've just soldered. Coil it nice and tight as uniformly as possible. A lot of people use large tie wraps or electrical tape to hold the coil in position. I had some strips of galvanized metal on hand so I made rigid straps. Take your pick, but you'll want to secure the coil in some way to keep it from unraveling and looking like Shhhh...

You'll finish the project by cleaning the copper on the other end and soldering it on in the same way. Clamp the hose on first but in this case, you need to be careful not to burn the hose. Get a rag soaked in cold water and lay it over the hose to keep it cool.

Clamp the leftover hose ends to the Tees. The coolant water goes in on the end that you want to be the wort outflow (hence "counterflow").

Before you use it, boil a few gallons of water with about a quart of white vinegar and drain it all through the inside a few times, then run clean water through. Of course, you'll also need to sanitize just prior to use by running starsan through or recirculating hot wort through it if you have a pump (without the coolant water running obviously).