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Old 04-12-2011, 07:39 PM   #41
Vuarra
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Can I suggest adding to the sticky that the boiling part is NOT needed if you are using pre-hopped extract? If you boil that, you will be losing a big part of the smell and taste of the beer.

Thanks.
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:05 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle6286 View Post
I want to get a 6.5 gallon glass carboy in addition to my 6.5 gallon plastic fermenter. I know I have to get a stopper and I already have an airlock. Obviously I need to get a few more 3 piece airlocks. Do I need to get a blow off tube if I plan to use the glass carboy as a primary?
I use blowoff tubes for bigger beers, however I've had a couple of 1.06 beers require it. Basically, watch it closely for the first 24-48 hours. If I'm going to need a blowoff tube I can always tell within the first couple of days.
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How to brew extract (with pictures!)

How to brew extract (Video)

Simple bottling process

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Old 12-06-2011, 06:18 PM   #43
hickaseer
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, WI
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When you transfer the wort to the fermenter, do you add tap water to get to the correct level and to cool it more?

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Old 12-06-2011, 07:37 PM   #44
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Adding tap water is a chance for contamination. You should boil extra water ahead of time for top off if needed. You can even, if you know you're going to have about 3 gallons when done, put in about 2-2.5 gallons boiled ahead into your ferementer, but you can over or under shoot... best is to just have an extra 3-4 pre boiled and cooled waiting in say your bottling bucket etc to top off. That way you're sure its sanitary water.
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:53 PM   #45
hickaseer
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, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pompeiisneaks View Post
Adding tap water is a chance for contamination. You should boil extra water ahead of time for top off if needed. You can even, if you know you're going to have about 3 gallons when done, put in about 2-2.5 gallons boiled ahead into your ferementer, but you can over or under shoot... best is to just have an extra 3-4 pre boiled and cooled waiting in say your bottling bucket etc to top off. That way you're sure its sanitary water.
Ok, copy that. Last question, after I boil the wort for ~60 minutes I need to bring it to pitching temp. What is the ideal pitching temp for a dark ale? I'm guessing 65-70 degrees? I'm in Minnesota so I figure I'm just going to set it outside in the snow (it's like 20 out) and watch the temp. Then I take that and pour it in the fermenter, add my water, and pitch my yeast

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Old 12-07-2011, 07:16 PM   #46
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its dependent on the yeast strain, not the beer made, read the yeast packet. Usually that is between 62 and about 70 I usually like 64 unless the yeast specifies otherwise.... Belgian and hefe strains do like to be warmer though like 70-75

the snow works, as does an ice bath, but some like me like a chiller of some kind. Maybe your next piece of gear for summer
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Fermenting/Kegged/Bottled NONE :( I moved to the NW and haven't had time to setup my brew rig since! (but hey, I'm in the Pacific NW so there's so much awesome beer I don't need to brew it as much hah!

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Old 01-04-2012, 11:03 PM   #47
jayavery
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if you wanna see it live, i made a video brewing with extract:

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Old 01-12-2012, 06:33 PM   #48
PassTheBeer
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hey i had a quick question.....when you take your OG is that a sample of the straight wort or is that after you mixed with the water in your fermenter???????????

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Old 01-12-2012, 07:17 PM   #49
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After you mixed your wort with water to get it to 5 gallons. You'll need to stir it well, to ensure consistent mixture or your gravity reading may be off. But you're also aerating it as well so it's great to do it anyway. Also don't ever mix the beer much post pitch, as this causes oxygenation after fermentation which is bad and adds off flavors
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Fermenting/Kegged/Bottled NONE :( I moved to the NW and haven't had time to setup my brew rig since! (but hey, I'm in the Pacific NW so there's so much awesome beer I don't need to brew it as much hah!

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Old 01-17-2012, 02:15 PM   #50
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After repeating myself add infinitum with some things in my extract brewing trek,I thought I'd post them here finally.
* I found that re-hydrating any dry yeast not only proofs it,it cuts lag time down to 4-8 hours. Of course that depends on yeast type & amount. But I boil & cool 2C of water to re-hydrate in. I also (controversially) add 1tsp dextrose. The addition def seems to get the yeast going more vigorously. Lag time is shorter as well.
* I also found (duh! moment for me!),that when puting the BK in the sink for ice bath,fill the empty space with cold water to the top of the sink (BK covered) to take the initial high heat off it. Then drain it,& fill the empty space with ice to the top of the sink. Top that off with water,rather than water,then ice. It'll cool down to 65-70F in 20 minutes. Little or no chill haze during fridge time this way.
* Also found that putting a fine mesh strainer on top of my plastic FV's While pouring in chilled wort & top off water Gets the bigger grainy bits/hops out. But more importantly,aerates the wort/top off water quite well. I get 3-5 inches of thick foam this way.
* After that,stir with paddle or long spoon (I like the 24 inch paddle from Midwest) roughly for 5 solid minutes to aerate even more,& get top off water & wort mixed well. Makes for more accurate hydrometer readings. And the re-hydrated yest gets a reall good start.
I also started using a blow off rig the first few days during initial fermentation. It's def needed! Hope these things help some of you!
I also found that Midwest & Northern Brewer carry the large,15g packets of Cooper's ale yeast. They're def fresher than the little 7g packets in the false lid of the Cooper's LME cans. Thusly being able to work well in lower initial ferment temps. with this one,that's 64F.
* Keep darkening & extract twang to a minimum or non-existent by late extract additions. I use half a 3lb bag of plain DME in a 2.5-3 gallon boil for hop additions. It doesn't darken quickly like LME does. I add the remaining 1.5lb od plain DME & all the LME at flame out. Then cover & steep 15 minutes to pasteurize. The wort is usually 180F+ at this point,& pasteurization happens at about 162F. No need to boil the hell out of it to achieve this. This way,color will be lighter & no extract twang.
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