Beginner extract brewing howto - Page 11 - Home Brew Forums
Register Now For Free!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Beginner extract brewing howto

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-11-2013, 04:39 AM   #101
hopsfan76
Recipes 
 
Nov 2012
Posts: 39
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackDogBrewing View Post
I don't know that it would burn, but I tie the drawstring cord around the pot handle to never let it touch the bottom.
thats a good little trick, not that i worry about burning the bag, but just so i can get it out when I;m done with it. I have tongs somewhere but the wife seems to always comandeir my good kitchen tools. lol

if i miss[pelled anything its because i am enjoying an arrogant bastard. drink up
__________________
Nate
"hops are the spice of life"
www.nmgventures.com

cheddarhed3 Likes This 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2013, 09:30 PM   #102
EROK
Recipes 
 
Jun 2011
Ingleside, IL
Posts: 207
Liked 8 Times on 6 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by CarnieBrew View Post
Couldn't this sticky be updated to discuss, and encourage, late extract addition? I think point 4 is a little confusing.

4. Bring the water to a boil. Remove the boiling water from the stove, to avoid a boilover. Mix the malt extract into boiling water slowly and mix well (if you don't mix well you can get scorching of the extracts). Put back on heat and boil for the designated time (usually 60 minutes), watch closely to avoid a boilover so as to avoid a sticky mess. Also at this time add the bittering hops at the start of the boil w/ the malt(s).

Could be:

4. Bring the water to a boil. Once boiling turn off the heat. Add enough malt extract to bring your boil gravity up to 1.040 (4oz DME or 4.5oz LME per quart of water). Mix very well (if you don't you can get scorching of the extracts). Put heat back on and bring back to the boil. Once the boil begins add the bittering hops, and start your boil timer (usually 60 minutes).
This may be true and late additions may work best for 2-3 gal partial boils. But I have never seen the wort darken as a result of using light LME with a full boil. (6.5gal) I made a brown ale today that was spot on in color and OG. I used 6.6lbs of Breiss extra light (4 L) LME and added this to my steeped specialty grains and boiled for 60 min. Remember "brew lore" is out there and the best way to tell is to do it yourself, take notes, and see what works for you and your setup. Your results are your results, don't let anyone convince you that what you are doing is not correct. If it works for you, then do it.
__________________
EZ BREWING CO. - No Stress -- Just Do Your Best !



Chuck Norris is the only person to ever beat Andre the Giant in a drinking contest. And he did it by a two case margin.


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2013, 01:04 AM   #103
MarsingRedneck
Recipes 
 
Nov 2013
Marsing, Idaho
Posts: 73
Liked 8 Times on 7 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by CarnieBrew View Post
You've never heard of late extract addition? It's pretty much the default method of brewing with extract these days, as people have realised that adding all your DME/LME at the start of the boil, especially when only doing a partial boil, means significant changes to hop additions to adjust for the high boil gravity....and further darkening of the end beer.

Why "should" you boil the extract for the whole hour? There isn't a reason...if you're concerned about bacteria that problem can be solved by boiling it for less than a minute.

For more info, read here: http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/02/20...act-additions/

I think this sticky would benefit from the update.

A good read. Thanks

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2013, 01:40 AM   #104
mlail
Recipes 
 
Nov 2013
Charlotte, NC
Posts: 23
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts


I am a basic newbie but have made beer in the Mr Beer kit, all went well. My wife bought some mixes for a 5 gallon batch which is 2.5 times more than Mr Beer. So we bought a 5 gallon kit.

With Mr Beer I would cook the wart on my stove with no issues. The pot was not very big for a 2 Gal batch. So now I have the kit for 5 gal but the instructions suggest using a 6 gal stainless steel pot. Again no problem with the pot size. My problem is with my stove. It is a ceramic cook top and my wife says it cannot boil large 5-6 gallons worth of anything. To prevent the stove from breaking the ceramic top, they installed a thermostat which cycles the burner on and off. I guess that too much heat is lost for the stove to keep up with. However, I have a couple thoughts:

Thought #1
So I thought that I would use a propane burner that came with a turkey deep fryer. That is until the beer making kit instructions stated to not do this in my shed or garage. I don't feel safe enough to run this in the house...What are the reasons that I cannot cook my wart in the garage?

Thought #2
Are there other ways that will allow the use of a smaller pot? I've thought about using a smaller pot, one that will boil water on the stove and then adding water to the fermentation bucket and once the cook time is done, pour that in with water already in the bucket. This will make the wart thicker until it mixes with the water.

Thoughts or ideas? I'd really like to get a batch made for Christmas fun.
thanks!

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2013, 04:16 PM   #105
ncbrewer
Recipes 
 
Jul 2011
New Bern, NC
Posts: 2,349
Liked 326 Times on 280 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by mlail View Post
Thought #2
Are there other ways that will allow the use of a smaller pot? I've thought about using a smaller pot, one that will boil water on the stove and then adding water to the fermentation bucket and once the cook time is done, pour that in with water already in the bucket. This will make the wart thicker until it mixes with the water.
You can do a partial boil as you described. Late addition of part of the extract is common if using a partial boil - then you won't have thicker wort during the boil. See this thread: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/late-extract-400922/

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2013, 12:02 AM   #106
mlail
Recipes 
 
Nov 2013
Charlotte, NC
Posts: 23
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts


ncbrewer,

I read the whole post and it was interesting. Most of it was outside of my question but the general message addressed what you already stated. As a newbie, there were tons of acronyms that require some additional research. I believe that I got/guessed most of them.

Thanks for responding!

 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2014, 12:42 AM   #107
HonestAbe
Recipes 
 
Jan 2014
Posts: 40
Liked 8 Times on 5 Posts


During the boil I noticed that there is a lot of sediment on edge the pot do I need to pushed it back into the boiling water?

 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2014, 05:49 PM   #108
unionrdr
Heavyweight homebrewing author & air gun shooter
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
 
unionrdr's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Feb 2011
Sheffield, Ohio
Posts: 38,988
Liked 3705 Times on 3178 Posts


It's usually the grainy hop bits from the pellets disintegrating in the boil that wind up on the sides. I scrape'em back in myself. I wind up straining the chilled wort into the fermenter anyway. This also aerates the wort.
__________________
NEW books on amazon/Kindle! Check it out now...
Home Brewing- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PBAP6JO
Distopian Sci-Fi- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTA0L6G
New! John Henry- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GBV3UXU

pompeiisneaks Likes This 
Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2014, 06:29 PM   #109
pompeiisneaks
Why that human mask?
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
 
pompeiisneaks's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Jan 2009
Redmond, WA
Posts: 852
Liked 52 Times on 29 Posts


yup unionrdr is right, leaving them in won't hurt, and then using any kind of strainer does both things, removes some of the particles, and it aerates the wort.
__________________
~Phil
Fermenting/Kegged/Bottled NONE :( I moved to the NW and haven't had time to setup my brew rig since! (but hey, I'm in the Pacific NW so there's so much awesome beer I don't need to brew it as much hah!

unionrdr Likes This 
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2014, 04:28 PM   #110
mtmartin2005
 
mtmartin2005's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Feb 2014
Virgilina, VA
Posts: 13

This past Saturday a friend and I brewed our first beer with a brown ale kit purchased at our LHBS. We went by the instructions and ended up with an OG of 1.054 once the wort had chilled. Transferred it to our primary fermenter and pitched the yeast. By Sunday bubbles were happening kinda slow, picked up fast on Monday, and have come to a complete stop today. The kit said that the bubbles should slow down after 4-6 days and then transfer to secondary fermenter. It's the 3rd day for us and the bubbles have stopped. What should we do? Go ahead and transfer to secondary fermenter or just leave it a few days more? Should we take another SG reading?

 
Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Beginner Brewing Kits FishinDave07 Beginners Beer Brewing Forum 11 09-30-2014 11:25 PM
Brewing beginner - Mixed fruit ciders Philosopher_Ted Cider Forum 8 08-21-2011 06:15 PM
brewing beginner kit? scottmc Beginners Beer Brewing Forum 7 08-29-2006 04:25 PM
Explanation for AG brewing for a beginner... iggy_fenton Beginners Beer Brewing Forum 2 08-10-2006 08:05 PM


Forum Jump