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Old 01-22-2009, 11:58 PM   #11
etp777
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Apr 2008
Chicago
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The issue with hand corkers (or at least hand cappers), is that they grip the neck of the bottle to supply the upweard force while pushing down on the cork/cap with a plunger.

Floor corker (or benchtop capper, which I have to find), press up on bottom of the bottle, so they're not applying torque to the thin wall near the screw top. Same reason I can recap screw top bottles. Rarely do it just because there aren't many beers I like in screw top bottles.

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Old 01-23-2009, 11:01 AM   #12
Will_Tingle
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Jan 2009
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Ahh, now I understand - thanks.

I just experimented getting a cork into an (empty) screw top wine bottle with a hammer (Placed a short dowel over the cork and hit that) and it worked great - guess that should be okay as the upwards force on the bottle came from my counter top...

 
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Old 01-23-2009, 02:41 PM   #13
etp777
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Chicago
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You should talk to your homebrew shop about renting a corker. They'll often have floor corkers available for rent very reasonably, and may even let you have it for a day gratis if you continue to buy from them and develop a good reloationship with them.

 
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Old 01-23-2009, 04:03 PM   #14
Will_Tingle
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Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etp777 View Post
You should talk to your home-brew shop .
Nice thought, but I'm afraid I live in a no-horse town. More to the point a no-home-brew-shop town, in the middle of no-where.

 
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Old 01-23-2009, 04:07 PM   #15
Tusch
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Nov 2007
Spring Valley, Ohio
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How well did the cork survive your hammer experiment. The biggest benefit of a corker is that it actually squeezes the cork inward, compressing it as it is pushed in to the bottle. This is because, to get a good seal, the cork must be larger then the opening. Just shoving a cork in often results in tearing or cracking of the cork.
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Old 01-23-2009, 06:19 PM   #16
Will_Tingle
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Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tusch View Post
How well did the cork survive your hammer experiment.
No problem at all.

 
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