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Old 10-11-2012, 02:09 PM   #91
beerguy2009
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Nov 2009
, Iowa
Posts: 137

Looking at my Frig, the only way you might fit a 10lb tank is if you only put one keg in the frig. If all you have is a 10lb tank, just drill a hole in the frig and put it on the outside. I have seen several videos where people did that.



 
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:11 AM   #92
hbrew85
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Jul 2012
Tulsa, ok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerguy2009 View Post
Looking at my Frig, the only way you might fit a 10lb tank is if you only put one keg in the frig. If all you have is a 10lb tank, just drill a hole in the frig and put it on the outside. I have seen several videos where people did that.
I do have a 5 pound co2 tank but was thinking about maybe getting another tank. Thought of getting a bigger one because price is just a lil higher on 10 pounder but I dont want to have co2 on the outside. Will probably get another 5 pound one or get a 20 pound one and just refill the little one.



 
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:09 AM   #93
HDbrewer
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Sep 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSNovi
I tried two 1/6 barrels lat night. It was a no go even after removing the molded in shelf ledges. Just not quite wide enough.
By any chance you think a 1/6 barrel and a ball lock will fit?

 
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:02 PM   #94
RSNovi
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Nov 2011
Grass Lake, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDbrewer View Post
By any chance you think a 1/6 barrel and a ball lock will fit?
I am not sure as I only have tried a comercial 1/6 barrel.

 
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:49 PM   #95
pvburton
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Jan 2011
Bensalem, PA
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I got the glued-in shelving/gasket variety in the garage awaiting conversion. Too bad I already bought the plexiglass; Dremel + insulation tape it is. Thanks for the tip on the light notch; I probably would have missed that!

Has anybody validated these newer versions still only have a line in the top front? I did a hand-feel test and found the top right to get pretty warm, so I think that's still the case, but I wanted to get some secondhand confirmation on that. I'll probably do the corn starch + rubbing alcohol test just to be sure; they change one thing why not another?

Also, instead of buying a sacrificial cutting board, thinking my plexiglass might fit the bill as a support for the tower or is it not rigid enough? Perhaps if I go through the trouble of doubling or tripling it up? Its of no use to me otherwise now.

 
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:32 PM   #96
ThatGeekGuy
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I didn't use a support plate inside the fridge for the tower mounting, just a large fender washer under each of the four screws. Works great, and one less thing to measure and cut up.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:06 PM   #97
luke2080
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May 2011
Boston, MA
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JusticeAle and dinertime - either of you guys finish this build?

I have the door off right now, ready to do this, and just realized the same problem with the screws. I started going around the outside with a putty knife to peel the plastic door molding out. But it appears to be solidly glued to all of the insulation across the full door, so its just breaking up the insulation.

I'm thinking step 2 for me is to just take a sawz-all down the door, hacking off the shelves and pieces that stick out. Then I'll tape up those cuts. Not nearly as nice of a finish though, but I can then use the door lining and the original door seal.

I'll work on drilling out the top hole in the interim. Hopefully someone has some good insight on how to best deal with the door.

 
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:12 PM   #98
luke2080
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Umm...nevermind. Somehow I didn't see there was a 3rd page to this thread, with answers and pictures. Thanks for posting that.

I think I'll go with the approach of cutting it all flat, and putting plex-glass on top. Time for the HomeDepot trip.

 
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:12 PM   #99
beerguy2009
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Nov 2009
, Iowa
Posts: 137

Quote:
Originally Posted by luke2080 View Post
JusticeAle and dinertime - either of you guys finish this build?

I have the door off right now, ready to do this, and just realized the same problem with the screws. I started going around the outside with a putty knife to peel the plastic door molding out. But it appears to be solidly glued to all of the insulation across the full door, so its just breaking up the insulation.

I'm thinking step 2 for me is to just take a sawz-all down the door, hacking off the shelves and pieces that stick out. Then I'll tape up those cuts. Not nearly as nice of a finish though, but I can then use the door lining and the original door seal.

I'll work on drilling out the top hole in the interim. Hopefully someone has some good insight on how to best deal with the door.
Here are some picture of what I did. Also I used Silicone weather strip to seal the foam as it loos better than tape.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:37 AM   #100
freeokw
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Sep 2011
lincoln, ne
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