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Old 04-23-2013, 07:35 PM   #61
GVH_Dan
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If you were growing in San Diego, you may have bines popping out of the ground in January vs. April in the PNW or other northern states. If they come up to early, they will start to bud before they have developed side arms. That means you get a lot less cones per plant.

 
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:01 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GVH_Dan View Post
If you were growing in San Diego, you may have bines popping out of the ground in January vs. April in the PNW or other northern states. If they come up to early, they will start to bud before they have developed side arms. That means you get a lot less cones per plant.
interesting. it's my understanding that it's the shortening length of day that makes the plants produce cones, not their size. thus, if they start early, they grow bigger and have more length from which to grow side-arms and hence cones. based on this, it would make sense to get them started on the earlier side, within reason. i see your point - january is way too early. here in maryland hops popped up in mid-april and are going gangbusters. hopefully that's not too early.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:37 PM   #63
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Sweetcell, Thanks for the trimming advice. I just trimmed all but the strongest 3-4 per bine. Anyway, I've got 25 mounds with two-three rhizomes in each (3 different varieties). Last year I had some sort of growth out of each mound. My chinook and cascade being the big producers.. As of right now, 10 mounds have plants over 6'. However, I have 8 mounds without even a bud popping out. Should I be concerned about those without anything coming up? Would it be safe to dig down and see if anything is going on? Thanks again

 
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:10 AM   #64
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Sweetcell, Thanks for the trimming advice. I just trimmed all but the strongest 3-4 per bine. Anyway, I've got 25 mounds with two-three rhizomes in each (3 different varieties). Last year I had some sort of growth out of each mound. My chinook and cascade being the big producers.. As of right now, 10 mounds have plants over 6'. However, I have 8 mounds without even a bud popping out. Should I be concerned about those without anything coming up? Would it be safe to dig down and see if anything is going on? Thanks again
you could go digging down, but be warned that the bines pushing their way up are very delicate and will break easily. you would need to be very careful.

better yet - RDWHAHB. it's still early in the growing season, not everyone is awake yet. hell, we're not even past our frost date. maybe some varieties are aware of this and don't want to take any chances!
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What hops should I grow? Looking for cheap honey?
- Drinking: NHCPA (BPA and APA made with ingredients from Baltimore), 2 blends of a rye sour: ECY20 + ECY34, local sour cherry kriek #2, brett'ed Belgian blond on raspberries
- Aging: sour blond on second-use cherries, English Barleywine (half on brett), 3726 saison w/ brett x2 (dregs mix & Lochristi), GNO 3724 saison w/ brett mix, sour cherry mead, acerglyn, and a few other sours...

 
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:01 PM   #65
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...

it's very unclear, as far as i can tell, if home growers should cut their first growth. we don't need uniformity among plants, since we typically only have 1 of each type of plant (and if you have more than one, does it really matter to you if columbus #1 needs to be harvest one week and columbus #2 is ready the next?). i am not cutting back the first growth on any of my plants... i don't see any advantage to doing it.

one thing you will want to do with second year plants is to eventually trim back the bines and keep only 4-6 of the healthiest per plant.
I just read a blurb from great lakes hops Facebook about "bull shoots". It describes some early shoots as being hollow and weaker.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:17 PM   #66
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I just read a blurb from great lakes hops Facebook about "bull shoots". It describes some early shoots as being hollow and weaker.
awesome, thanks for pointing that out:

"Growers Note: Selecting the right bines to train.
The first largest bines to emerge on 2nd year or older hop crowns are not necessarily the best to train. These "bull" shoots have a large hollow core, like a straw; and easily kink or are damaged by late spring storms. Most crowns put out two to three of these, at the most; and crews can be trained to identify them and prune them out as they twirl climbing bines. "Bull" shoots are often a light olive green color with stretched internodes - some field practice clipping a few will reveal which have the hollow stems."

i wonder if there are any other drawbacks other than being weaker. i wonder if they produce less?

gonna have to check my plants tonight. learn something new every day!
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What hops should I grow? Looking for cheap honey?
- Drinking: NHCPA (BPA and APA made with ingredients from Baltimore), 2 blends of a rye sour: ECY20 + ECY34, local sour cherry kriek #2, brett'ed Belgian blond on raspberries
- Aging: sour blond on second-use cherries, English Barleywine (half on brett), 3726 saison w/ brett x2 (dregs mix & Lochristi), GNO 3724 saison w/ brett mix, sour cherry mead, acerglyn, and a few other sours...

 
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Old 05-09-2013, 03:14 AM   #67
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i wonder if there are any other drawbacks other than being weaker. i wonder if they produce less?
Theoretically yes. The internodes are spaced farther apart so the sidearms will follow. Basically, more sidearms/vine=more cones/vine.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:51 PM   #68
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I built 2 - 4x4 raised beds and had planned to plant 2 rhizomes in each along with tomatoes, cucumbers, and maybe some hot peppers. My goal was to put the hops on one end of the boxes that way I could make a trellis for them to climb on that spanned both boxes (they're like 2 feet apart) now I'm seeing the rhizomes should be a couple feet apart.

I'm wondering now that I know this, should I put them on opposite sides of the boxes? Would I still be able to plant the other stuff in the middles of the beds?

 
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:12 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Larzean View Post
I built 2 - 4x4 raised beds and had planned to plant 2 rhizomes in each along with tomatoes, cucumbers, and maybe some hot peppers. My goal was to put the hops on one end of the boxes that way I could make a trellis for them to climb on that spanned both boxes (they're like 2 feet apart) now I'm seeing the rhizomes should be a couple feet apart.

I'm wondering now that I know this, should I put them on opposite sides of the boxes? Would I still be able to plant the other stuff in the middles of the beds?
I've always tried to keep other things out of my hop beds, mainly because I was worried about the hops taking over.
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Old 12-29-2013, 11:26 PM   #70
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I just ordered 40 Rhizomes and plan to set up 4 lines 6' apart 9' tall and 26" long hear in mid-coast Maine
It's my first grow so any help or input would be great.
I am not planting anything else around them for mowing and I feel they will take up most of my free time...

 
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