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Old 05-18-2006, 06:11 PM   #1
Resident Crazy Uncle
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Oct 2005
Madison WI
Posts: 1,857
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So Ventmatic responded and offered up ss ventmatic faucets from their new batch for 34.95 each direct from them. They say they'll ship the first week of June.

Along with this came an upsell for something they call the UltraFlo Gate Kit and some other docs about kegging beer.

ULTRAPOUR Gate Kit Promo
Ultra-Pour Promo Kegerator Kit

1) SS Ultra-Flo-vm Faucet normal price $36.95

1) 2000ss Gasket Kit normal price $10.00

1) SS 3 in. or 4 in. Straight shank or Tower Shank or Ausi-Snapshank with all fittings your choice:

(If you do not need SS Shanks substitute with10mm & 12.5mm Spouts)

We use 304 Stainless Steel. normal price $21.00
All shanks are come assembled with
Stop Ring
Stop Ring Keeper
Shank Nut
SS 1/4in. I.D.Tail Piece
Tail Nut

1) Ultra-Pour Flo-Gate Kit normal price $65.95

Comes assembled with:

KR - Flo-Gate
Two ss splicers
8in. keg line 1/4in I.D.
Two Large ring clamps
6ft. Shank line 3/16in I.D.
Two small ring clamps

Total cost without promo $133.85

Promo price $89.95

Added Bonus: If Two Ultra-Pour kits are ordered with Shanks; One 10mm Spout and 0ne 12.5mm are added to shipment at No Charge. A $21 Value

Order today 414-217-8406
Flow Gate doc
The Flo-Gate®
Innovative inline restriction design reduces common beer foam problems

By inserting a Flo-Gate in the Beer Line below the Tap Tower you can increase your restriction

US Patent Number 6,840,281 other foreign and U.S. patents pending

A quick-change velocity restrictor for beer lines. The most innovative advancement in beer line design in decades.

Our simple construction of twin PTFE friction channels increases backpressure compensation and just pours a better beer.

You need only two or three ring clamps and some 3/16in. I.D. tubing to splice the Flo-Gate into your beer line.

First review the layout of your beer lines. Pay close attention in the bar area just under the Tap Tower. We recommend the Flo-Gate be spliced in at this point. (4 or more feet from the Shank) use new 3/16 I.D. as needed.

For your Kegerator: Pre-assemble a Flo-Gate with 6ft. of new 3/16 I.D. at one end and 8-12 inches of new 1/4 inch I.D. beer line at other. Connect ¼ to the Keg. Note: The I.D. size of the keg coupler tailpiece may have to be changed to 1 / 4 in. Run the 3/16 I.D line to the shank. Check for leaks and set your regulator to the natural Keg pressure of the style of beer your pouring at temperature. Check you’re Temp in the glass. Never use your regulator to control fill rate or speed of fill into the glass.

Check out our forced carbonation table and Fill Rate Chart from our web or call and we will e-mail them to you. For best pour control use the Ultra- Flo stainless steel faucet, its exclusive all new vent free seal forward free rotating design is super clean and patented.

If you’re going to be the best and pour the best then use the best. You’ve got a good start with the Flo-Gate now get a great finish with The ULTRA-FLO Faucet just the best bar none.

We will help you pour a great Beer.

Call today for the Flo-Gate that fits your need. You tell us what you have and we’ll help you find what you need. Let’s talk
ØFits all existing equipment
Works with all existing dispense equipment. You can add a Flo-Gate to old installations and keep the lines cooler and improve their pour. Flo-Gates splice freely inline and eliminate line routing interferences and bulking. No, wrapping, twisting, bundling and/or coiling chokes.

ØStainless steel makes beer taste better
Brass can taint the taste of beer. Vent-Matic’s Flo-Gates use Stainless Steel couplers and only FDA/NSF materials.

ØSmooth handling and control
A combination of twin PTFE friction channels ensures smooth beer handling action and our back pressure compensation designs allow you to create restrictor combinations for single or split line applications.

ØAdvanced design
Less waste! The restriction design allows for lower beer velocities, which helps to prevent rapid expansion that causes foam and loss of carbonation. The right restriction keeps the beer line packed out and the CO2 in solution. Remember the right faucet gives you control of the pour and that’s the ULTRA-FLO Faucet, with interchangeable speed spouts

Ultraflow Dispense International Copyright 2005

Jason 'Kornkob' Robinson

I wanna move to Theory. Everything works in Theory.

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Old 05-18-2006, 06:15 PM   #2
Resident Crazy Uncle
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Oct 2005
Madison WI
Posts: 1,857
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LONG post:

This is the doc they sent about tap beer in general and specific to home brew.

Open Question “How I can get a better pour out of my Kegerator”

As the inventor of the Vent Free Seal Forward Faucets and Flo-Gates I have received many e-mails and phone calls asking that question.

In all cases I have been able to help Home Brew Guys understand the two major parts of their Kegerators system and pour a great beer.

First off I must tell you that 90% of what you have heard from others about pouring beer from a kegerator and force carbonating your homebrew is not founded in good solid fact.
Please remember this; Information passed along from one to another with a little bit of fact may worked for one brew guy. And what works for one may or may not work for the other.
The real key to understanding great beer presentation is to know:

The pouring temperature and

The rack-off pressure of your beer and

The Pouring or Fill speed (oz per sec.) at the glass.

Rack-off Pressure is defined as (closed container pressure before tapping)

(More about this later)

Because the complexity of pouring a carbonated liquid like beer as compared to pouring water, no one has really given much though to the difference and explained to the Homebrew Guys its importance in how a beer is poured.
Sorry to say; Most of us are flying by the set of our pants and have to go through a number of batches to get the right combination of hops and carbonation in order to pour with our Kegerators. We go out to the internet and ask and get back all manners of what to do. Many times we think we have done batched wrong, because when we hook up to our kegerator we pour a lot of foam. Just to find out we have to reduce our % volume to get it to pour.
Will I’m here to tell you the cultrate is not you or your beer.
It’s the pouring half of our kegerator. It’s inline restriction (back-pressure set up) that we know very little about and depend on the maker to have right.

We pretty much take for granted that the pre-made Kegerators or KR-Kits are correctly built and should pour great beer, all we do is hook them up and pour.

Kegerators for the most part are designed to pour water not beer. I will get into that but first I would like to review the real keys numbers to understanding great beer presentation:

The pouring temperature of the beer you wish to dispense and

The rack off pressure of that beer at that temperature

Rack-off Pressure is defined as (closed container pressure of said beer before tapped at known Temp)

If you do not know what these two major numbers are before you ever hook up your beer for dispense you must read on. If you do know what these two numbers are you must read on.

The closed container pressure at temperature defines and sets the secondary regulator pressure for each keg of beer you wish to pour. Please review the chart:

(Chart removed)

The temperature (Temp (F)) of the beer found at the far left column is read across its row to the pressure found within the beer container before tapped. This pressure is the dispense pressure at temperature need to maintain the internal head pressure of your beer and keep it pristine. Your secondary regulator is set to this pressure and not change to dispense beer. Your dispense system is not dispensing water so do not change the regulator to change your beer flow. Your regulator is not a water spigot. It’s to maintain Co2/V.
The Co2/V can be found by simple following the column up to the Top (%/V) number. 38 F at 10.2 psi is a 2.4 solubility or (240% V) Changing the dispense pressure or regulator perssure will change the % /V of your beer over time (about 48hrs). Changing dispensing pressure or regulator perssure will instantly change the flow rate of the beer and so the back-pressure at which the system operates at. Mixed gas is a way of adding back-pressure to a fixed system with out adding Co2 if anything it will take Co2 away from your beer over time for a number of reasons which I will not get into at this time. If you have the correct back-pressure built inline you do not need mixed gas.

(continued on next)
Jason 'Kornkob' Robinson

I wanna move to Theory. Everything works in Theory.

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Old 05-18-2006, 06:16 PM   #3
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Oct 2005
Madison WI
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Continued from above

Why you do not use the regulator to control the beer flow.

It’s best explained this way: Beer is a closed container liquid that has been brought to a give temperature and held under a give gas pressure (Co2) for a give amount of time. This temp, pressure and time allow the gas to dissolve into the liquid as a balanced solution. Once the desired % /V are achieved the pressure is removed and the closed container is allowed to rest at temperature. This rest allows the internal pressure between gas and liquid to normalize or balance.

This normalize pressure within the container is the Key to maintaining the integrity for the Brew and the setting of the regulator. Once you set the regulator you will not change it.
Change the regulator and over time (not right away) you alter the beer Co2.
Change the regulator and you will instantly change the driving force over the liquid and it will increase the speed of flow in the fixed dispense line, which in turn will artificially increase the fix-line back-pressure. A band aide for a poor dispense system (I call it mix gas aide)

Now I’m sure most of you have all heard the best way to clear a foaming line is increase the regulator pressure, right?

Wrong! This is and old trick that is used by people to cover a bad back-pressure problem at the commercial level where beer is used up very fast and it has no time to over carbonate.

Homebrew guys will get the perception of a better beer presentation and in some cases a little tighter foam head until the Co2 saturation over time over powers the back-pressure of their dispense system and all they get is foam. Regulators are not water spigots. Once the beer has taken on more Co2 it is much more sensitive to fill speed entrainment (foaming) a wild beer.
Again there is and old trick to degasify and over carbonated container of beer at the commercial level. Just bounce the keg on the floor and pull the safety ring on the coupler and let all the gas out. The beer is now flat and bitter so who cares it pours good and will sell out in a few days. It’s the poor dispense systems not the beer.

The time it should take to fill a glass of beer (oz per-min.) is defined by the beer Co2 number not some made up gal per min. The only beer that pours well at a gal per min. is a British Ale.

You see the higher the Co2 by Volume the slower your beer should fill the glass in time (oz / min.)

When the beer is filling to fast we have to slough-off or pour-off the head as it builds up in the glass so we get a good pour with about 3/4in head.

How this may look good but if you think about it, all that foam that was poured-off took a lot of the neural carbonation with it out of the beer and broke out more bitters than normal.
It’s like taking an open can of coke, covering the opening, shaking it up a little, letting off a small amount of Co2 and then drinking it. Shake it a lot and it’s sweet and flat

Do not get caught up in the old gal per min. fill rate. It’s a sales gimmick. One gal per min. is counter productive to good beer presentation.

(Chart removed)

I have a chart that will give you the back-pressure of a fixed 10ft. beer line by given I.D.

(Chart removed)
If you review this chart you come to note that the back-pressure is changing as flow rate changes but the line is a fixed length (10ft) and I.D. (internal dimension)
As you see the back-pressure is reducing as the flow rate is less and less you come to understand that a high Co2 beer a · Wheat Beers:………….……3.0 up, must have much longer beer line than a · British Ale…………………..1.8-2.2

If you use the charts you will see that a wheat beer held at cooler temperature of 40 F and a Co2 of 3.0 will have a balance pressure of 17.7 let us say 18psi and we should pour it slow at around 80 oz /min. we would have to put a minimum back-pressure of 18psi inline or about 20ft of 3/16 I.D. line in our kegerator.
A good set-up rule is applied pressure +5lbs. You can always trim back for best presentation.

As you can see Kegerators with just 4 or 5 feet of 3/16 I.D. do not have sufficient back-pressure by design. You have to be over driven the keg with excessive pressure to get back-pressure up to clear stream, which means you up the regulator and over time you will end up wild beer syndrome.

The subject of proper dispense is not easy to get all at once, for there are a number of other factors that must be take in consideration, when pouring your beer like “why is my faucet stream wavering’.

Waver of the beer stream as it comes out of the faucet is some times subjective.
Is it perception or is there a need to have a little faster fill speed.
Do not confuse this with flow rate. Fill speed is how fast the beer stream is moving as it pours out of the faucet. Fill rate (see table above) is oz /min. or volumetric flow rate.
The more consolidated the stream the faster it will enter into the beer filling the glass and the rounder it will look.
The appearance of the beer stream can be just an observation or perception based on long time exposure or experiences pouring with old restriction faucets.
Older faucets are somewhat restricted to improve consolidation because of the poor system installation. It is fixed in the faucet and can not be changed. This can cause a foaming problem in some styles of beer.
It is for this reason the Ultra-Flo Faucet has 5 spout I.D. dimensions to chouse from so it can be tuned to the style of beer being poured.
To improve consolidation you just change the Faucet Spout I.D. As you change the spout I.D smaller the speed of fill increases. A low Co2 beer likes a little more entrainment speed so as to break out the carbonation. If you pour low Co2 beer like Ale, a 10mm I.D. or 11.5mm spouts is good. If you are pouring a high Co2 Wheat beer less entrainment speed is good and Spout of 12mm or used most beers will use a standard 11.75mm Spout

Waver is mostly perception but at times a good indicator to consolidate and change to a small I.D. spout

At the end of the day it takes a long time to become familiar with all of the in and out’s of beer dispense and a much long beer line in your kegerator than you have room for.

That is why I invented and patented the Flo-Gate and Ultra-Flo VM 2000 and why the major manufactures of beer dispense equipment use my patents in there designs. The Flo-Gate takes the guess work out of back-pressure problems in just 3 inch’s not 20ft.and the Ultra-Flo gives you control of your pour.

But Remember Only Ultraflow Dispense International Has It All.

Give me a call at 414-217-8416 I can help

Kind regards,

Brad Amidzich
Jason 'Kornkob' Robinson

I wanna move to Theory. Everything works in Theory.

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Old 05-19-2006, 06:21 AM   #4
Apr 2006
Posts: 60

i got this too and ordered two faucets, hopefully they ship on target (a few people have reported receiving them already, but I don't know how long they were on a waiting list).

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Old 06-24-2006, 01:16 AM   #5
Chairman Cheyco
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Dec 2005
Posts: 3,246
Liked 12 Times on 12 Posts

Are those flow-gates adjustable? I can't see anywhere in that article that says they are, but I may have missed it...
Once the wind has been broken, it cannot be fixed.

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