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Old 06-21-2010, 07:59 PM   #61
BendBrewer
 
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I do not plan to use secondary, just primary (in a bucket) for about 3 weeks. The instructions say to add the dry hops on day 5 after brewing, so that would be about 23 days in primary with the add'l hop pellets. Anybody see any problems with this plan?
Yes. Flip those numbers around. Dry hop for the LAST 5-7 days.

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If I don't use the pantyhose, and just drop them in uncontained, I gather that I should wrap a hop bag around my siphon tube when I rack to the bottling bucket, to avoid hop particles in the beer, correct?
Or you could rack to a 'secondary' for a few days and then siphon out of that. That should help to leave most of the particles behind.

And I know others will tell you differently but for me, Pellets suck. They just do.
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Old 06-21-2010, 08:14 PM   #62
platypotamus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMoreBeerish View Post
If I don't use the pantyhose, and just drop them in uncontained, I gather that I should wrap a hop bag around my siphon tube when I rack to the bottling bucket, to avoid hop particles in the beer, correct?
I just tossed my pellets into the carboy last time, and I have to say that racking to the bottling bucket was a complete pain in the arse. The hop bag on the siphon tube kept on getting clogged every 10-20 seconds, so I ended up removing it, and then having to be really careful about getting too many hops off bottom of the carboy. I will be dry-hopping w/ the hop bag next time.

 
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Old 06-21-2010, 08:27 PM   #63
BMoreBeerish
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[QUOTE=BendBrewer;2122988]Yes. Flip those numbers around. Dry hop for the LAST 5-7 days.

Makes sense. I'm sure the instructions are based on fermentation being complete and racking to secondary or the bottling bucket within about 10 days of brewing. However, thanks to all the knowledge dropped here at HBT, I now know that longer is better in primary, secondary, and bottles. I'll plan to add the dry hops (in pantyhose or a hop bag definitely), on about day 16 or so, and bottle on day 21.

 
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:21 PM   #64
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I prefer the taste/aroma if you dryhop cold. I'm lucky enough to use a refrigerator for a chamber and just turn down the t-stat when i'm ready to cold crash.

 
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Old 06-28-2010, 02:48 PM   #65
mattldm
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How does one ounce of Amarillo pellets sound for dry hopping a 5gal batch of pale ale?
Should I use more or less?
I'm planning on just tossing the pellets in the secondary, then kegging and cold crashing.

 
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Old 06-28-2010, 03:13 PM   #66
Gritsak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattldm View Post
How does one ounce of Amarillo pellets sound for dry hopping a 5gal batch of pale ale?
Should I use more or less?
I'm planning on just tossing the pellets in the secondary, then kegging and cold crashing.
1 ounce is good. I would toss them in the secondary then rack the beer of top of them. After about 5 days cold crash for the last 2 days before transferring to the keg. This will drop most of the hops out of suspension so less particles will make it to the keg.

 
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Old 06-28-2010, 03:21 PM   #67
shuf
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Anyone for dry hopping with a hop tea? I haven't tried this method before, but this post, http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/big-...21/index8.html, got me pumped up to try it on an IIPA after it ages.

 
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Old 06-28-2010, 03:50 PM   #68
Wayne1
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There are many good methods discussed here. I used a couple of different one's when I brewed in brewpubs, depending on what type of equipment I had.

My first pub used open fermenters (glycol jacketed, stainless vessels with a removable stainless lid) and transferred to a cooler for aging. I dry hopped in the aging tank with whole leaf hops in a large bag. What some of use use to hold grains. I would put a large stainless steel nut in the bag to hold it down.

When dry hopping cold, it takes a lot longer, but the flavor seems to stay stable longer. I would keep the beer on the hops for three weeks and then transfer to a serving tank and carbonate.

When I started at a brewery with Uni-tanks and no aging, I had to change my methods a bit. I still cooled the beer down to 40 F after fermentation was finished. I removed as much yeast as I could from the cone. I then poured pellet hops in from the top of the fermenter after I unscrewed the pressure relief assembly. I made sure to sanitize everything and put that back together. Again the beer would age on the hops for 21 days. At the end of that time, the beer would be filtered through a 5 micron plate and frame filter into the serving tanks.

Currently for homebrew, I ferment in Mini-Brew 6.5 gallon conicals. After about 2 weeks, I transfer the beer into another conical with hops and a small amount of polyclar(1/8 tsp.) . This helps clear the beer a bit and allows the hops to settle in the cone. For dry hopping at room temps, the time is much shorter. 3-5 days is about optimum. To assure clear beer, I will sometimes transfer into a third vessel with a touch more polyclar (1/4 tsp)to help things settle out. for an additional week. At that point I will transfer into a keg and place it in the refrigerator and carbonate.

I have found that the hop flavor and aroma is at it's peak when it is transferred in the keg. It starts to fade right away. It is hard to detect after about 3 weeks.

This was also noticed when I was judging IPAs and American Barley wines at this years NHC first round. Many beers were knocked down because there was very little aroma left. I'm sure the beers were fine when bottled, but the aroma had faded away by the time the judges got it.

If you want the hop aroma to stay, try to arrange it to dry hop cold for three weeks. Also, if you are entering competition, try to time your beer to package it right before you send it in. Now this can be a problem for folks who bottle condition, but the cold hop method does work to keep the flavor around longer.

 
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Old 06-29-2010, 06:42 PM   #69
BMoreBeerish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool View Post
I prefer the taste/aroma if you dryhop cold. I'm lucky enough to use a refrigerator for a chamber and just turn down the t-stat when i'm ready to cold crash.
What temperature is needed for "cold crashing?" I have an empty fridge right down in the basement next to where the beer is fermenting. It sounds like I might be well served to move the fermenter to the fridge for a couple days after dry hopping for 3-5?

 
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Old 06-29-2010, 07:26 PM   #70
Wayne1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMoreBeerish View Post
What temperature is needed for "cold crashing?" I have an empty fridge right down in the basement next to where the beer is fermenting. It sounds like I might be well served to move the fermenter to the fridge for a couple days after dry hopping for 3-5?
Try it!

40F is the temp I would condition at. You can try various times and temps and let us know the result.

I have only dry hopped cold, where the beer was brought down to 40F before the hops were added, for 21 days and warm , 68F, for 4-7 days before the beer was racked off the hops, cooled and carbonated. In my experience the cold hopped beer held the flavor longer.

You may be able to find a time and temp program that speeds up the extraction of flavors and aroma but keeps it around in the finished beer longer.

 
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