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Old 04-28-2005, 01:31 AM   #11
BitterRat
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I have dry hopped 2 ways:
1.) whole hops, loose in secondary for 2 weeks
2.) in a bag, in the keg
The whole hops in the secondary worked great!! It was a Pseudo St Rogue Red clone. I say Pseudo because I changed 1 hop, I dropped Chinnook and used Columbus. I dry hopped with .5 oz of Crystal, .5 oz Centennial and .5 oz of Columbus.
In keg did not work so well, the first time I used .5 oz of Kent Goldings, whole, and it was ok, the second is(was) a failure. I made an APA that was really good and tried a new hop that I had just recieved, Palisade, and found it is not a good hop for dryhopping!!Turned a really good beer into an undrinkable brew!!Oh, I do not treat the hops before dryhopping, I just put them in, but when using a bag, I sanitize that!!

 
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Old 05-19-2005, 02:08 AM   #12
rixport
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May 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnlandsailor
I've read several different ways of dry hopping and was wondering which of these the forum has had success with. My dry hopping experiences have been....."less than optimal". Give details as to hop varieties, hop form, stage at which they were introduced, and how they were introduced, and how long you let them set.
This is probably one of the most complicated (by brewers) things in brewing IPA's etc. Funny thing is, it's so easy that people complicate it unnecessarily. Transfer your beer to a secondary (one of the only reason's i can think of for doing this) and add pelleted hops. Usually one once per 5 gallon carboy. No need to steam, boil or any other type treatment as long as the hops come right out of a clean (preferably sealed) container of hops. Whole hops are ok, but harder to get in the carboy and MUCH harder to get out once they are in there! So, next time you want to dry hop, just do it.. make sure the beer is mostly done fermenting by doing a hydrometer reading or if you are one member of this forum, by doing some sort of strange native vulcan mind meld with the beer. (just kidding) Add the hops, let sit for 10 days or so, rack and keg.. If you want to really do something daring, get an extra large tea ball, fill one half with pellet hops, clamp the other side closed, drop it into a keg along with the beer, carbonate and be amazed.. good luck!

Ken

 
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Old 05-19-2005, 01:42 PM   #13
andre the giant
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixport
This is probably one of the most complicated (by brewers) things in brewing IPA's etc. Funny thing is, it's so easy that people complicate it unnecessarily. Transfer your beer to a secondary (one of the only reason's i can think of for doing this) and add pelleted hops. Usually one once per 5 gallon carboy. No need to steam, boil or any other type treatment as long as the hops come right out of a clean (preferably sealed) container of hops. Whole hops are ok, but harder to get in the carboy and MUCH harder to get out once they are in there! So, next time you want to dry hop, just do it.. make sure the beer is mostly done fermenting by doing a hydrometer reading or if you are one member of this forum, by doing some sort of strange native vulcan mind meld with the beer. (just kidding) Add the hops, let sit for 10 days or so, rack and keg.. If you want to really do something daring, get an extra large tea ball, fill one half with pellet hops, clamp the other side closed, drop it into a keg along with the beer, carbonate and be amazed.. good luck!

Ken
This is the technique I just used on my IPA. I'm bottling it tomorrow. I racked the beer to the secondary, when the beer was close to FG I put an 1/4 oz. of Goldings pellets in a muslin bag and dropped them in the carboy. I'm sure the bag wasn't necessary, but I like the idea of keeping some of the hop particles contained. If I had whole hops, I'd probably add them without the bag.

Anyhoo, I'm looking forward to tasting the IPA, as well as my chocolate porter and my Bass clone, tomorrow during "Andre's bottlefest, 2005."
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Old 06-13-2005, 07:18 AM   #14
Marcale
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Jun 2005
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Hi
First post. I have dry hopped in the keg and used fuggles for a bitter. I used a small cylindrical tupperware type container that I drilled lots of holes in. It worked well.

 
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:14 PM   #15
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The only beer that I dry hop every time is my #5 Hopping Street IPA. I just drop the pellets in the secondary and give them enough time to settle and carefully rack into the bottling bucket.
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Old 01-01-2009, 06:44 PM   #16
ChrisUng
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Jan 2009
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"I just finished an SNPA clone not too long ago which required dry hopping. I used cascade hop pellets and just dropped them in the secondary for 2 weeks. I was then very careful when siphoning to my bottling bucket to avoid getting any hop particles in my beer. Seems like it worked, the beer tastes great!"

I came up with a great way to avoid sucking hop particles with your auto-syphon. I go and buy the cheapest pair of knee high nylon stockings I can find. I then soak them in sanitizer for 10 minutes, then tie one onto the end of my auto syphon with a sanitized rubber band, being sure to leave a good bit of "tag" hanging off the end (picture a tube sock with bad elastic that's half hanging off your foot). I put that stocking-capped syphon into my secondary fermenter then syphon to my keg (or your bottling bucket) as normal. The large amount of filter surface area allows for a fairly efficient syhon, and a nice clear dry hopped ale.

 
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Old 01-01-2009, 09:34 PM   #17
Jolly McStanson
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That's a great Idea going the stocking rout. I'm going to try that next time. Iv made dry hopped beer before and it seems like my finished beer is riddled with hop leavings. They get in your teeth, and the the hop tastes ends up being too strong.

 
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:49 PM   #18
ScubaSteve
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I've had excellent results using 3" herb balls from wal-mart. I crash cool my primary, then when I'm ready to rack I place a sanitized herb ball (with ~2 oz. of any aroma hop; I usually use cascade or centennial) in the keg. I'm really starting to like centennial...it's got a nice, sharp, grapefruit flavor I don't pick up with the cascade. The ones I bought have a hook at the end of the chain...which can be bent to clip right onto the bev out tube. No other mods necessary. Then I rack from the primary into the keg and age it for another week.

Stone Brewery states that dry-hopping is at its best 7-10 days. In other words, you should plan on tapping the keg in a week for the most brilliant hop flavors.

Sierra Nevada is big on double dry hopping (Stone does this sometimes too). This is actually not as expensive as it sounds, and I have been experimenting with it recently. All you do is throw 1 ounce in the primary towards the end of fermentation....then proceed to dry hopping in the keg as described above. It'll take one more ounce, and from what I can tell, it's got some serious results. Basically, you're doing a double infusion; once the first hops are spent, you add new hops to keep imparting hop oils. I'm really digging this new method...as I primary for 3+ weeks anyway.

I plan on building a hopback soon and incorporating all these methods. I've actually found that some BMC drinkers will like hoppy beers if you can manage to keep it highly aromatic. If you overbitter in the boil, less people tend to like it.

 
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:47 PM   #19
BrianTheBrewer
 
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We are going to start to dry hopping with hop pellets
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:01 AM   #20
Chello
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Does the temperature of the beer matter when dry hopping? Or more specifically, can i drop hop a beer in the keg at serving temp or is it more effective at room temp?
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