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Old 05-18-2006, 12:06 PM   #11
Baron von BeeGee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chairman Cheyco
This may not be a bad idea for those of us who's coolant water isn't near freezing as it would increase the cooling capacity significantly.
Yeah, we don't all have a glacier to work with.

 
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Old 05-18-2006, 01:47 PM   #12
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It still won't matter what size tubing you use, people in hot climates like ours with 80-85 degree ground water in the summer time. Well be forced to use some kind of pre-chiller (or post-chiller) to get anywhere near good pitching temps.

I am actually going to start that project in the next couple of weeks before it heats up here. I have an old immersion chiller that I need to put garden hose fittings on.
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Old 05-18-2006, 02:36 PM   #13
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I bought a ball valve in thre garden hose department at Menards which is like Home Depot. It cost less than $3.00. It has male and female fittings and screws unto a standard size garden hose. One end screws unto the hose the male end will screw intp a spray nozzle or an immersion or counterflow wort cooler. Works perfectly

 
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Old 05-28-2006, 07:34 PM   #14
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Well, I built this excellent project yesterday and made a few observations:

1. It's super easy and works really well.
2. I screwed up one compression fitting and have a small leak that I can work around, but I'll try and solder it up or just replace the fitting.
3. Discovered that it's pretty easy to straight a coil of 3/8" copper tubing by pushing it through 4' of 1/2" copper pipe!
4. I taped up the end of the copper pipe with masking tape making a 'bullet' shape and it pushed through the soapy garden hose in about 15 seconds with no fuss.
5. Agree with Dude that a prechiller is needed to drop below 80F as our groundwater here is already warm.

I sure won't be screwing around with the immersion chiller anymore (other than as a prechiller).

 
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Old 05-28-2006, 07:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron von BeeGee

2. I screwed up one compression fitting and have a small leak that I can work around, but I'll try and solder it up or just replace the fitting.
MY CFC leaked at one time, so I patched the joints with JB weld. The stuff is really messy but it did the trick. That stuff is food grade once it cures, so it is a nice solder-less solution, and darn cheap.
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Old 06-10-2006, 07:45 PM   #16
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One minor design improvement that I could offer up to this: use plastic snap clamps for the garden hose to barb connections instead of worm drive type hose clamps. I tried the worm drive ones first, but could not tighten enough to get rid of water leaks. The plastic snap ones don't allow any leaks, even with the thin, cheap garden hose that I used.

I got mine here:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...duct%5Fid=8236

 
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Old 07-29-2006, 04:54 PM   #17
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Appreciate the design you shared Cheyco. Ended up costing about $70. Not bad IMO. That's what they sell for at NB less shipping but mines longer . need to shorten up the connectors so it's not so wide and I tossed the barbs on the end as I had them hanging around. Question, do you need to have a higher heat resistant beer line for keg to CFC?





 
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Old 07-29-2006, 10:09 PM   #18
pokey
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Yes - from what I have read, standard vinyl would be a mess at this temp. I got some of this after I made mine:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/var...ant%5Fid=54036

Worked great on the first batch with the CFC. #2 is being brewed tomorrow morning.

 
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Old 07-29-2006, 10:28 PM   #19
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Hey desertBrew, nice work! I especially like the electrical tape, you can always tell it's a Cheyco Brand CFC by the electrical tape!
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Old 07-30-2006, 03:01 PM   #20
Baron von BeeGee
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ha HA! I used those fancy plastic cinch binders. I also used the hose from HD with the reinfoced webbing in it for keggle->CFC and haven't had any issues. I would like to find some 'official' high-temp line, though.

 
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