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Old 11-26-2008, 10:30 PM   #1
goplayoutside
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Hey gang --
I have some friends in town from Germany and they are screaming about how they can't get a decent Hefeweizen anyplace in town here (they are correct). So they found out I brew and convinced me to give it a try. Here is what I have come up with, modeled on what I've seen for Paulaner clones -- feel free to chime in with recommendations. I am stuck with the 3 gal partial boil but hoping that a late extract addition will help avoid caramelization. I am feeling some pressure to get this one right!

Thanks in advance!

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Recipe: 6th ST Hefe
Brewer: Lock 7 Ale Co.
Asst Brewer:
Style: Weizen/Weissbier
TYPE: Extract
Taste: (35.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 2.75 gal
Estimated OG: 1.049 SG
Estimated Color: 7.0 SRM
Estimated IBU: 10.9 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: - %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.50 lb Wheat Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) (15 min) Dry Extract 57.57 %
2.00 lb Wheat Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 32.89 %
0.33 lb Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 5.43 %
0.25 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 4.11 %
1.00 oz Mt. Hood [3.00 %] (60 min) Hops 7.3 IBU
1 Pkgs Weihenstephan Weizen (Wyeast Labs #3068) Yeast-Wheat

Process:
1) Steep Munich & Cara-Pils 30 min in 2.75 gal at 160F
2) Remove grains, add 2 lb Wheat DME, bring to boil
3) At boil add hops
4) After 45 min of boil add 3.5 lb DME
5) Return to boil and boil 15 min more
6) Cool, strain into fermenter, pitch yeast
7) Ferment 10 days @ 67F
8) Move fermenter to 55F for 10 days more
9) Bottle

I don't plan on using a starter because the beer is only moderate gravity and I read it's beneficial to slightly underpitch for a hefeweizen.
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Old 11-26-2008, 11:24 PM   #2
DeathBrewer
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i'd increase the munich malt to two lbs and steep in 1 gallon of water. then it would be a partial mash, and you really need a PM to get the most out of the munich and carapils.

other than that, it looks great.
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Old 11-27-2008, 01:23 AM   #3
goplayoutside
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Death - Game on.
Your style of PM looks too dang easy so I'm going for it (F-yeah!). If you answer everyone's questions as promptly ans satisfactorily as you do mine, you probably should get a medal for reducing the blood pressure of so many brewers... and another one for all the better beer in the world that's your fault!

I will cut out a pound of DME to compensate for the sugars I'll get from the mash -- I suppose this will mean there's less wheat in my Hefeweizen... but I bet it still comes out fine. If I'm mashing 2.33 lbs of grain, I should be able to get away with 1 gal of mash water, right? The same for my sparge, and then I just add water up to whatever my kettle will fit and let 'er rip for the boil?

Do you think I'll be okay w/ a wyeast activator of the 3068 and no starter? I can break it and then leave it in a good warm place overnight before brewing.

I ferment in a temp-controlled water bath and work with the basic assumption that the ferment will stay closer to the water temp than it would to ambient air temp. I will try to set the bath around 62 I think, hoping that the ferment will go down in the 65 range. Aiming to brew Saturday AM. Any thoughts?
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Old 11-27-2008, 01:26 AM   #4
BigKahuna
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Let the record show that I will NOT be voting on any more poles unless there is the Ralph Nader Option!



At least until I change my mind.
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Old 11-27-2008, 07:35 AM   #5
goplayoutside
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[QUOTE=BigKahuna;977674]Let the record show that I will NOT be voting on any more poles unless there is the Ralph Nader Option!

good to see that you have your principles!
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Old 11-27-2008, 08:18 AM   #6
DeathBrewer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goplayoutside View Post
Death - Game on.
Your style of PM looks too dang easy so I'm going for it (F-yeah!). If you answer everyone's questions as promptly ans satisfactorily as you do mine, you probably should get a medal for reducing the blood pressure of so many brewers... and another one for all the better beer in the world that's your fault!
i try

Quote:
Originally Posted by goplayoutside View Post
I will cut out a pound of DME to compensate for the sugars I'll get from the mash -- I suppose this will mean there's less wheat in my Hefeweizen... but I bet it still comes out fine. If I'm mashing 2.33 lbs of grain, I should be able to get away with 1 gal of mash water, right? The same for my sparge, and then I just add water up to whatever my kettle will fit and let 'er rip for the boil?
you could do a pound of wheat and a pound of munich, but if you're going for the stout aspect, i'd stick with the munich.

1 gallon of water would be perfect. mash at about 154°F (heat your water to 166°F before you add the grains)

Quote:
Originally Posted by goplayoutside View Post
Do you think I'll be okay w/ a wyeast activator of the 3068 and no starter? I can break it and then leave it in a good warm place overnight before brewing.
that'll be fine...just might take a little longer. just leave it at room temperature, nowhere hot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by goplayoutside View Post
I ferment in a temp-controlled water bath and work with the basic assumption that the ferment will stay closer to the water temp than it would to ambient air temp. I will try to set the bath around 62 I think, hoping that the ferment will go down in the 65 range. Aiming to brew Saturday AM. Any thoughts?

that temp range sounds perfect.
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Old 11-27-2008, 10:28 PM   #7
goplayoutside
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Talking of mashing wheat... for future reference, how does your "tea-bag" sparge technique used in your PM method do with stuck sparges? It seems to me there should be less of a problem with stuck sparges using your method than with some of the other techniques out there. In situations where you do use a bunch of wheat and/or rye, do you add rice hulls?
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Old 11-28-2008, 10:01 AM   #8
DeathBrewer
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i probably should use rice hulls...i might get better efficiency, but no...it's not as much of a problem. it drips out of the bottom...the only pain in the ass is holding that sucker up long enough to let it drain. a colander helps.
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Old 11-30-2008, 02:36 AM   #9
goplayoutside
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Death -- after using your method for the first time, I am impressed with how easy it is. I have a couple of questions for you though:

1- There is no vorlauf. Do you view this as a weakness for getting really clear beers?
2- Do you have any way of avoiding getting boil trub in the fermenter?
3- I had a low OG that I believe to be the result of statified wort after I topped up for the ferment. Any little tricks for avoiding this? I am thinking just stir the snot out of it after it's topped up, I guess.
4- How do you aerate?

Thanks.
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PRIMARY: NONE / SECONDARY: NONE / CONDITIONING: NONE / ON TAP: ANGLO-AMERICAN WHEAT PALE ALE

 
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:17 AM   #10
DeathBrewer
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1- There is no vorlauf. Do you view this as a weakness for getting really clear beers?
Nope. vorlaufing is not for clearing the beer, it's for keeping grains and particles out of the boil. the bag has small enough holes that it minimizes the particles that get into the beer. although not affective as vorlaufing, i have never seen any ill effects. clearing the beer is about patience, temperature and yeast...for the most part. all the particles that get into your boil will just drop out.

2- Do you have any way of avoiding getting boil trub in the fermenter?
i dump it all in when i use this method...again, everything will settle out. When i use my keggle, i use the false bottom and a filter. going to extremes like this will only improve your beer, but i've made beers that were just as amazing using this "tea-bag" method.

3- I had a low OG that I believe to be the result of statified wort after I topped up for the ferment. Any little tricks for avoiding this? I am thinking just stir the snot out of it after it's topped up, I guess.
i take my gravity readings at various stages, including pre-boil and before and after top-off. if i am using extract or mixing with anything like water, i mix the sh*t out of it before i take my reading. it's the only way to get close to accurate. but at least if you take the rest of the readings, you'll know how far off your calculations really are.

4- How do you aerate?
I rarely do to any extreme. using this method, i pour the wort rapidly through a funnel into the fermenter and i also stir the wort in the pot at the end of cooling. i have a pump and stone and access to o2, but don't use them much...usually i will just shake it a little bit. oxygen is for yeast reproduction. it's always nice to have a little of that going on in the fermenter, but i also have most of it taken care of with my pitching rate. dry yeast or starters from liquid will take care of high gravity beers.
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