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Old 05-24-2012, 04:05 AM   #981
Oct 2011
Worcester, MA
Posts: 698
Liked 30 Times on 28 Posts

When I bought my 9 gallon it cost me $90. But i can only really do 5 gallon All grain, or i can do 10 gallon extract (because you really only use ~ 6 gallons). I just wasn't happy with the old pot and I like the new one because it does have the surface area to cover multiple burners. And with my 9 gallon tall pot, it took about an hour to go from mash to boil. Now with my new one it takes about 10-20 min (10 min on burner, 20 on stove). But its really up to you. People in MD also use the pots for steaming crabs and other stuff. So I do get some use out of it for that.

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Old 05-30-2012, 09:47 PM   #982
Hopelesst's Avatar
Apr 2012
Frederick, Md
Posts: 104
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Ok, I need some help here.

I'm working on a recipe for a 9 quart batch that will be split into 3 volumes to test flavor additions. My last (and first) stovetop all-grain batch suffered from a low efficiency that I believe was due to my mash thickness. I'm having a hard time achieving a thin mash for such a small volume of wort without exceeding my boil volume target of 3 gallons.

5.4 pounds of grain at 1.5 qt/lb (not quite as thin as I'd like) nets me 8qts, 10oz of wort after grain absorbtion. That means without over shooting my boil volume of 3 gallons I can only sparge with 3.25 quarts. This volume does not seem capable of a proper sparge.

Is there a better way I could batch sparge this?

Would it be better to no-sparge instead? If so, how much extra grain do I need to add to account in the loss of efficiency from no-sparge?

My fiancÚ and I brew together. No SWMBO here, only SWBBMS (she who brews by my side).
Primary: Kentucky Common
Secondary: ESB Base-Grain Experiment, Pantry Porter
Bottled: Lady Rumpkin Imp. Pumpkin Ale
Planned: Bramling ESB, White House Honey Ale, Sage/Rye Saison, Ethiopian Coffee Porter

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Old 06-03-2012, 01:13 AM   #983
Mar 2012
Bodymore, Murdaland
Posts: 19
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Just used this method to brew Centennial Blonde. Got about 68% efficiency. I'm very pleased with this method. I kept missing my temps on the high side, though -- strike water at 165 put my mash at 160 when I wanted 150, so I used ice cubes to cool the mash down.

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Old 06-13-2012, 09:11 PM   #984
Dec 2011
Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 29
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts

First off, big ups to Death Brewer for the perfectly detailed process. Wouldn't have been able to go all grain without it.

Second, had a question about SRM as it relates to this method. Every brew I've done using Stovetop all-grain (7 batches now) has ended up considerably darker than estimated (using Hopville). Has anyone else encountered this?

I think I remember Jamil mentioning something about how this could be a potential product of HSA. The brews are perfectly fine in every other regard. Just trying to confirm if this is inherent with this method, or if I should be looking elsewhere to address it.


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Old 06-13-2012, 10:13 PM   #985
tennesseean_87's Avatar
Aug 2011
Bismarck, ND
Posts: 1,508
Liked 137 Times on 100 Posts

I do everything on the stove and my beers aren't too dark.
#8 Corks in Belgian Bottles Hold Carbonation
Increasing Pipeline Diversity
Drinking: Irish Red, Hoppy Brown, Belgian Export Stout, Oktoberfest, Dubbel
Fermenting: Belgian Saison, Session Steam(ish)
On Deck: Pilsner/Schwarzbier split batch, Berliner Weiss? White IPA?

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Old 06-14-2012, 03:36 AM   #986
Jul 2011
Albany, NY
Posts: 1,395
Liked 46 Times on 39 Posts

Originally Posted by crookshc View Post
Second, had a question about SRM as it relates to this method. Every brew I've done using Stovetop all-grain (7 batches now) has ended up considerably darker than estimated (using Hopville). Has anyone else encountered this?
Nope. I've done 25 batches this way, none have had this issue, including a Pilsner and things like Cream of Three Crops.

Last n brews: (P=Primary) (K=Keg) (B=Keg->Bottle)
7/26: Flower Power(P) 6/13: Rolling Rock (K), 6/09: Yooper's Pale Ale (K), 5/27: Columbus IPA (K), 5/17: Victory Hop Devil (K), 5/15: Summit MO SMASH (K), 5/12: Sierra Nevada Celebration (K), 5/03: Schwartzbeir (B) 4/10: Birch Beer (Soda) (K), 3/31: Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (B), 3/25: Belgian Ale (SWMBO slayer) (B), 3/21: mrbowenz English IPA (B), 3/17: Mirror Pond Ale (K), 3/17: Blue Moon's "Old Country Cousin" (B), 3/15: Sculpin IPA (B),

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Old 07-04-2012, 05:33 PM   #987
GothGargoyle's Avatar
Nov 2011
Posts: 9
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Just did my second brew using this method. I'm using 2 x 5G pots because that's what my stove can handle.

The first brew had a pretty lousy efficiency of 46%, mainly because of a small sparge volume. Trying to dunk the grain bag into the 5G pot for a sparge didn't work out - I had to remove just over 1L of water just to fit the swollen grains!

Last night what I did instead is heat a greater volume of sparge water in the second 5G pot, and when the grains had finished draining from the mash pot, I poured the mash liquid into a bucket and then put the grain bag back into the (empty) mash pot - then poured water over the grains from the sparge pot until the pot was full - then stirred and sat for 10 minutes before draining. I then repeated this with the remaining sparge water.

Ended up with an efficiency of 72.1% and spot on target volume for the boil. I then split the boil across the two 5G pots. Lose about 20% volume to the boil but I was prepared for that. Hit target SG and volume exactly.

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Old 07-06-2012, 10:56 PM   #988
Jan 2012
Posts: 226
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I REALLY want to try this method eventually, but I only have an 8 quart (2 gallon) pot. Can I do one gallon BIAB batches with it? I think that would be a fun change of pace from extracts.

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Old 08-12-2012, 03:48 PM   #989
Mar 2010
Posts: 122

Mike37 : Yes. I've done it. Make sure you scale down your 5 gallon or 10 gallon recipies properly, though. I use Beersmith to scale.

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Old 10-31-2012, 04:24 PM   #990
Feb 2012
lincoln, nebraska
Posts: 25

Hi all, long time lurker on the thread, first time poster.

I've been using this method to brew all grain for about six or seven batches, and it's worked very well for me. I usually get around 75 or 80% efficiency. Due to my setup I'm only mashing about 7 to 9 pounds of grain. I typically mash for one hour, and sparge for about 10 to 15 minutes in a larger pot.

So here's where I throw out the strange question: are there ways to reduce my efficiency without watering down the wort?

I'm hoping to brew an ordinary bitter or maybe a scottish ale in the 3-4% range, and as things stand, I would have to reduce my amount of grain to 5 or 6 pounds total to get that, which seems like a ludicrous amount -- not to mention that the smaller the amount of grain used, the higher the efficiency I would expect, which could offset the reduced amount and possibly lead to astringency. Has anyone else on this thread been faced with this issue, and how have you dealt with it?

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