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Old 11-26-2008, 06:23 AM   #61
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ok, i'm assuming you are talking about this grain bill:

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8 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt
2 lbs. Vienna Malt
0.5 lb. Crystal 10L Malt
if you are using a 5 gallon pot, i would suggest 3.25 gallons of water for your mash. that's 1.24qt/lb and 4.09 gallons, according to promash. leave you just enough headspace...enough room to do your work.

as for sparge...go with as much water as you can. if you can boil 6+ gallons, go with 4+ gallon sparge.

for batch sparging, you're basically running as much hot water through the grains as you can to extract more sugars. very basic interpretation, but that's the jist.

let me know if you run into any trouble...i don't seem to leave this place


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Old 11-26-2008, 12:04 PM   #62
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Perfect, thanks man!


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Old 11-26-2008, 07:28 PM   #63
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So before I do this (probably still a few weeks out) I'll probably beat you to death with increasingly trivial questions.

First out I'll have to do some cross-referencing of my city water report. I know some local brewers AG with tap water so I'm probably good but better to know. So do you measure anything in the pre-boil wort? ph? SG?
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Old 11-26-2008, 07:41 PM   #64
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i sometimes take the SG of my wort pre-boil. i either take a sample for the hydrometer and cool it in a liter mug with ice water or i just use my refractometer.

i have pretty nice water, i never worry about PH and never adjust. for certain styles, it might be beneficial, but i still make fine beer
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Old 11-26-2008, 07:52 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by DeathBrewer View Post
for certain styles, it might be beneficial, but i still make fine beer
That's what I hear.

I think I'll measure my pre-boil SG just to see how well I'm doing. If my efficiency is stupidly low at least I can boil the wort down before starting the timer to get the gravity up. Do you use tap water or filtered? If tap does your tap water have much of a chlorine taste?
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Old 11-26-2008, 08:03 PM   #66
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tap water. i top off with bottled water.

i used to top of with tap water, but i had a few beers affected by the chlorine. Chlorophenols are not good for your beer.

EDIT: tap water should almost always be fine. all the bad stuff will boil off. it may mess with the PH of the mash, but i've never had a problem and i've used tap water from many different areas.
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Old 11-26-2008, 09:19 PM   #67
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I meant to ask, what about specialty grains? You're not supposed to boil those are you? If that is the case, you would still steep those... right? I assume you could do that while the water is heating to 170. Or am I completely off base?
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Old 11-26-2008, 09:43 PM   #68
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did you read the thread? look over the first few pages again. you don't boil any grains. you add them all together at the beginning after you have your water hot and ready...the base malts AND the specialty malts. this is all-grain
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Old 11-27-2008, 11:20 AM   #69
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Thanks for the great tutorial.
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Old 11-29-2008, 03:52 AM   #70
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Awesome tutorial for beginners. This a great way to get into all grain brewing without having to get crazy with equipment.


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