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Old 02-26-2013, 11:55 PM   #1001
borden
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Sep 2010
Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany
Posts: 312
Liked 17 Times on 13 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by smrosendahl View Post
I would say it leads me strongly in the right direction. Since I plan on doing 3 gallon batches, I figured I could just do 3/4 tsp. and have my bases covered. I think the people complaining about a protein layer above the trub were usually lacking irish moss, so I figured it would settle out with it. I can't do a cold crash, so I was a little worried with the few reports of it in this thread.
My experience is that a good, fast cold break will influence final clarity more than the clarity of the wort as you start fermentation (even without cold crashing). I'm stuck doing an cold water and ice bath for the time being, and I get hazier beers than when I was using a wort chiller -- I had pretty clear beers then, stovetop BIAB and all.

 
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:30 PM   #1002
smrosendahl
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Jan 2012
Auburn, WA
Posts: 14


I did recently invest in a copper wort chiller, so thanks for the info.

 
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:05 AM   #1003
PuppetmanInBC
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Dec 2009
New Westminster, BC
Posts: 20

Thanks for the tutorial - brewing my first batch (2.5 gallons of Denny's Rye IPA). I figure my efficiency was around 75%, so I'm pretty happy. My AG efficiencies doing a full mash and batch sparge were not as good -this is a nice way to perfect the technique.

 
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:42 PM   #1004
mintyfresh
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Feb 2013
Posts: 4


i used your method last night for a Brown Derby Day Ale..... i'm a beginner and this was incredibly easy. Used 6 lbs of grain at 1.25g/lb in a four gallon kettle, wrapped in towels during mash, totally stable temps. i'd projected losing about a gallon to the mash but with less grain and good drainage that didnt happen. so after dunking was just short of 4G when all the wort was together..... think i hit the max capacity for my small apartment stove. eventually got a good boil going, hopped, cooled and pitched..... this morning the yeast is roiling away and the kitchen is in pretty good shape! this method is very streamlined and will be easy to do again (and again) thanks DeathBrewer for a great tutorial and continuing guidance.... this is truly a terrific adaptation of the method for a small space brewer and it opens up unlimited possibilities.
happy! yeast is rockin' away

 
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Old 05-05-2013, 03:41 PM   #1005
woozy
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Mar 2013
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I really think this ought to be a sticky. The BIAB that *is* a sticky is fine once you actually read it, but the fancy equipment that it uses immediately sends the incorrect message that it is going to be well beyond the means of beginning amateur.

But, hey! What happened to the pics?
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:56 PM   #1006
walcotteric
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Dec 2012
Posts: 86


How would one do FWH with this method? Would you just add the hops after the sparge and before you start the boil? Anyone tried that?

 
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:39 PM   #1007
Mike37
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Jan 2012
Posts: 226
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I've done it a few times. I toss the hops in the pot right after I lift out the bag. Seems to work just fine.

 
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:44 PM   #1008
walcotteric
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Dec 2012
Posts: 86


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike37 View Post
I've done it a few times. I toss the hops in the pot right after I lift out the bag. Seems to work just fine.
Awesome. Thanks.

 
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:35 PM   #1009
srehal
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Jan 2012
Oakville, Ontario
Posts: 21

I am planning on my first BIAB. I have a 9 gallon kettle and 10 lb grain bill. I would like to do a full boil single infusion mash. The recipe calls for 6.5 pre boil volume, How much water should I start the mash with to get there?

I am think 7-7.5 gallon should be OK and hopefully once the grain goes in the kettle won't overfill.

Any advice would be helpful?

 
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:45 PM   #1010
carlk47
 
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Nov 2012
Middleboro, Ma
Posts: 286
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Is there any problems with heating the 1st runnings in your brew kettle while you are sparging? I'm thinking it will help to streamline and shorten the brewday if I have these almost to boiling prior to adding the 2nd runnings.

 
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