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Old 09-15-2009, 10:16 PM   #31
Jan 2009
Elmhurst, IL, IL
Posts: 631
Liked 14 Times on 11 Posts

I didnt see this before brewing mine over the weekend but I used the recipe from my clone book and used cultured yeast from the bottles. So far its off and runnig. Here is what I brewed.

11.5 Belg Pils
.52 Crystal 10L
.52 Belg Aromatic
lb Clear Candi
1.36lb corn sugar

1.75 Styrian Goldings 3.4AA 90min
.52 Styrian Goldings 15 min
.52 Saaz 15 min
.52 Styrian Goldings flameout

90 min mash, 90 min boil with sugar added last 15 min. I didnt realize that I was low on the corn sugar until the boil so I had to sub about 1/2lb of table sugar.
shat happens

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Old 10-22-2010, 03:18 PM   #32
May 2009
Posts: 290
Liked 19 Times on 8 Posts

Originally Posted by jbenedetto View Post
I'm inexperienced, but I've been reading about the mashing/lautering process lately. It's a fairly simple process that for some reason gets overcomplicated when an explanation is attempted. I think I understand it, so here goes:

Sparging is the process of rinsing to extract fermentable sugars from the grain. As I understand it, it involves pouring the wort back into the mashtun after draining/"lautering" the initial mash. Think of it as a second rinse for the grains.

There's fly sparging, where you spray the wort in and drain it at the same time/rate. Fly sparging is generally considered the most efficient, meaning more fermentable sugars are extracted from the grains. Batch sparging is where you pour it all in at once, and then drain. It is a much simpler method, but considered less efficient and thus may require more grain to get the right starting gravity. Most homebrewers get acceptable results using this method.

You do not sparge with wort....that would be a little counterproductive if you think about it. You sparge with hot water, usually between 170 and 180 degrees.

For batch sparging, when your mash is complete you vorlauf, then drain the "first runnings" from the mash, then you add your hot sparge water to the mash tun and stir it up really well. Then you vorlauf, and drain these "second runnings" from the tun, adding them to the first runnings. Then you can start your boil.

For fly sparging, the tun never goes empty. When your mash is complete you vorlauf, then start adding your sparge water while the mash tun is emptying - these happen simultaneously until you hit your boil volume or until your runnings get below a certain gravity.

*Vorlauf means to recirculate some wort (ie drain some from the mash tun, then carefully add it back to the mash) until it starts to run clear. You are basically creating a good filter bed before draining the mash.

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Old 12-29-2011, 10:22 PM   #33
Oct 2009
New Zealand
Posts: 22
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Sorry to bring up an old thread - but when should the sugar be added?

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Old 01-19-2013, 04:08 AM   #34
Jan 2013
Posts: 331
Liked 12 Times on 12 Posts

Originally Posted by jbenedetto View Post
I'm planning my first all-grain batch and I'm torn between an Allagash Tripel clone, or a Duvel clone.. Both are among my favorites, but I am unsure if they would be simple enough for a first-time batch..

Are there any homebrewers who could lend a recipe for either of these delicious beers?


"Duvel" BGSA 90min mash/90 min boil
11lbs castle pilsner
2 lbs dextrose
1.5oz styrian goldings boil 60 mins
1oz saaz boil last 5 mins
1oz saaz flameout

mash in at 148*F for 90 mins
sparge slowly
boil for 30 mins before adding hops add 1 lb dextrose last 5 mins
90 min boil cool to 62*
pitch large starter of 1388 at 62*F
let temp rise to 78*F-80*F over a week add 1lb of dextrose sugar at high krausen
cold crash(watch out for suck back) to 33-35 for 3 weeks
bottle and keep in a warm spot 80-85*F for 2-3 weeks
return to cold spot 40-50*F for 6 weeks

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