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Old 06-08-2010, 06:28 PM   #31
Jun 2010
Posts: 15
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Aside from water, beer’s chief ingredient, barley is the primary raw material. The barley has to germinate for five days in the maltworks before being dried with hot air. This results in malt. The colour of the malt and consequently, of the beer as well, is determined by the temperature. In the brewing hall we mix the ground malt with the brewing water that is drawn from our own sources. We have four 60m-deep wells. This mixture of water and malt, the mash, is brought to various temperatures in a series of steps. The enzymes that are formed during germination further break down the starch in the malt into fermentable sugars. Through filtration, the solids (draff) are separated from the liquid sugar extract (wort). During the cooking process, we add various types of hops which give the beer its characteristic bitterness and pleasing aromas. For the hops our brewers select only the best aromatic varieties, Saaz-Saaz from the Czech Republic and Styrian Golding from Slovenia. After the hops are removed and the mixture is processed in the whirlpool, it is allowed to cool and the beer extract is pumped into the fermentation vessels.

Primary Fermentation Day 2 to 8
The Duvel then ferments and ripens a first time in refrigerated cylinder/conical tanks for some 20 days. We work exclusively with our own top-fermentation strain of yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae cerevisiae). According to the top fermentation principle, at the end of the fermentation process, the yeast floats to the top of the young beer where it forms a thick layer of foam. This process takes place at a temperature of 20° to 26° Celsius over a period of 4 to 8 days.

Lagering Day 8 to 29
After the primary fermentation comes the lagering or maturing phase in the lager tanks, where the beer is chilled to -2° Celsius in order to allow it to gently continue to ferment. During this phase, which is carefully monitored with daily analyses and tasting, the beer acquires its balanced flavour and it develops its rich aromatic bouquet. After filtering, the beer is ready to be bottled.

Day 30: Bottling
Right before bottling, an extra dose of fermentable sugars is added along with active yeast cells, which leads to a secondary fermentation in the bottle.

Day 33-47: 2 weeks maturing in warm cellars
By adding a small dose of fermentable sugars and extra yeast to the beer, we cause it to undergo an extra, secondary fermentation in the bottle. This process gives the beer a richer aroma and a more full-bodied taste. This secondary fermentation takes place at a temperature of 22° Celsius in the warm cellars where the beer matures for 14 days.

Day 48-90: 6 weeks maturing in cold cellars

After that, the beer is allowed to rest in cold cellars, where it continues to mature for another 6 weeks (42 days) at a temperature of 5° to 6° Celsius. The cold cellars have a maximum capacity of 12 million bottles. The cool temperature refines the flavour and gives the beer a riper aroma. In other words, the entire production process actually takes
3 months from start to finish. Preparing a traditional beer of perfect quality takes time, lots of time.

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Old 06-09-2010, 05:11 PM   #32
May 2008
Dunkirk, NY
Posts: 836
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

I've found that the recipe in brewing classic styles gets close to duvel with some aging.

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Old 09-30-2010, 04:34 AM   #33
May 2010
, Northern UT
Posts: 32

Well I found this thread pretty interesting just having tried to clone Duvel. I think I'm going to name my clone D''s missing something.

I tried the recipe out of "Clone Brews Recipes for 200 Commercial Beers" by Tess and Mark Szamatulski. My temps, times, hop schedule, etc were nearly spot on with the recipe; yet it turned out to something completely different.

I, right now as I'm typing, have the no-kidding original Duvel sitting next to my D'vel. Aromatics, colors, flavors are completely different. Darker, stronger, and seemingly more bitter. The book recipe called for less 2-row belgian pils, no cara, but a little bit of belgian aromatic malt, along with cane and clear candi sugar. Hop schedule is almost identical. It also called for the month long "lagering" at cold temps prior to bottling (but at 35 degs, not below freezing). Yet the mash schedule was a constant 151 for 90 mins. I'm thinking this is the biggest difference looking at the rest of the thread.
Any thoughts? Wife thinks the D'vel is definitely a Belgian, just not anything close to a real Duvel.
I'm puzzled

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Old 11-23-2010, 04:49 PM   #34
pekabrewery's Avatar
Oct 2010
Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 18

Originally Posted by ghpeel View Post
Another tip from Jamil: You can increase the fermentability of extract by re-mashing it! So if you are doing a partial mash and want to get the final gravity down beneath 1.010-10.13, then add your extract to the mash and let the base malt enzymes chomp it down some more. 90 min at 147-149F seems to be the recommended temp for this style.
I did a extract + grain duvel clone two days ago. I re mashed 5 lbs LME with 5 lbs of base malt in 148F for 90 minutes. With added Candi sugar I ended up with a OG of 1.082 and the fermenter is bubbling like crazy right now. Hopefully i will end up with a FG down towards the goal of 1.006.

Thinking about redoing the brew without the re mashing to see if the experiment worked. however, i'm gonna wait for this batch to finish first to see

Have anybody else tried this with success?

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Old 12-29-2010, 03:23 AM   #35
This ain't my first rodeo....
sudbuster's Avatar
Jul 2007
Western Arkansas
Posts: 4,030
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Anyone know what happened to "The Pol"?? He simply went missing. Wonder if he is still alive? Some rumors claim he came back on under a new ID, but I very much doubt that, as it just wasn't his style. Anyway, so-long "The Pol".......

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Old 03-10-2011, 06:08 AM   #36
Oct 2010
BC, Canada
Posts: 73
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Originally Posted by sudbuster View Post
Anyone know what happened to "The Pol"?? He simply went missing. Wonder if he is still alive? Some rumors claim he came back on under a new ID, but I very much doubt that, as it just wasn't his style. Anyway, so-long "The Pol".......
I noticed his absence too. I hope the man is OK, just not posting for some reason...

My Duval clone is nothing close too. I will keep on working on it.

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Old 04-12-2011, 05:08 PM   #37
Jan 2011
hampton, ga
Posts: 10

Ok i've had this one in the fermentor a little over a month now. the alcohol presence is pretty strong in the taste but besides that is quite nice. Is there a way to mellow this out? airlock is still bubbling too.. maybe a few times an hour at this point.

i did add candy sugar to the primary after about a week.

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Old 04-13-2011, 02:50 AM   #38
Feb 2011
Urbana, IL
Posts: 30

I think BLAM says it's all pils and plain ol' sucrose. That aromatic will make a huge difference

I highly recommend reading that book if you want to brew this...and preferably the whole book, because you read about how the monks do there thing, then you read how Duvel does it. Same idea, same goal, way more intense regimen. But even the Brewmaster will attest to the yeast never really being all that predictable. The only secret to this beer (other than getting the bill accurate) is attenuation.

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Old 12-12-2011, 10:34 PM   #39
Oct 2010
Asheville, NC
Posts: 33
Liked 8 Times on 5 Posts

I realize the post is old, for anybody still looking, searching, etc, I've got some tips from my own experience that could certainly help.

#1 - You really want the grist to be 100% pilsner. Looking at fermentables, this is 85% whereas the sugar is around 15%. Any bit of specialty malts whatsoever are inappropriate for the style, can increase your FG, and in my opinion, are just plain ol' unnecessary. Its best to add the sugar at flameout or during fermentation. For this particular style, I feel that dextrose (corn sugar) creates the right flavor profile. With anything else, I get too much sugar flavor even with a low FG.

#2 - The practice of acid rest/protein rest as part of the Ramp mash schedule is really unnecessary for home brewers. The malts we get are very well modified. Belgian breweries are sourcing their ingredients from all kinds of malt houses that have a variety of characteristics. The breweries understand this science and adjust their procedures accordingly. I've actually used that method several times and I've just found it has its problems for the home brewer. Most of all, a waste of time, there's no benefit. Second, it kills the head. Third, I've found a tannic flavor in all the beers that I've done this that takes a while longer to mellow out. Doing an infusion or even step-infusion between the 142-149F range produces better results and the same fermentability with well-modified malts.

#3 - You gotta bring the fermentation temperature up towards the end of primary (while the yeasts are still visibly active). Not too early as to get hot alcohols, but while the yeasts are still charged up enough to make the best use of that temp boost. Duvel supposedly ramps up as far as 80F.

The last Golden Strong I did was with the Wyeast Flanders Golden Ale Strain (private collection). This one was a big attenuator. I used the guidelines above and got a starting gravity at 1.072 that finished out at 1.002. Yes that's 95% attenuation! I've found that the big attenuator yeasts create other compounds, like glycerols, that create the impression of sweetness and body even in a beer that dry. Definitely doesn't taste too thin.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:06 PM   #40
Dgonza9's Avatar
May 2010
Evanston, Illinois
Posts: 1,182
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Has anyone done a ramp mash with a typical auber PID (no ramp function)?

I'm not sure how much my 1500 watt element will ramp a mash for a 10 gallon beer. I imagine it's got too much power to set it at 170 and leave her alone.

But I was thinking that there must be a manual mode % I can set it to that would ramp it about the right amount in the time required.

I might run some tests later. But if anyone's already figured this out, holla!
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