Frigidaire Model FRC445GB Mini-Fridge Kegerator Conversion - Page 72 - Home Brew Forums
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:03 PM   #711
ajsnow6234
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Nov 2011
Manassas, VA
Posts: 38

Yeah...sounds like its hosed...why go through the side?



 
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:52 PM   #712
ajsnow6234
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Nov 2011
Manassas, VA
Posts: 38

Here is the magnet solution I'm using... Easy and preserves the bulb!


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Old 12-03-2012, 06:59 PM   #713
pig140
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Sep 2012
West Monroe, Louisiana
Posts: 112
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So far my kegerator is doing great, keeping my keg between 35 and 38 and hardly running. I insulated my tower in such a way that I thought would prevent foam on the first pour. My set up is like this... beer line, copper, pipe insulation, PVC, pipe insulation, tower wall.

I am however getting about a half glass of foam in the first pour, but not warm beer. I'm also getting the freeze/melt/freeze/melt condensation on the inside the top of the fridge. I only have about 3-4" of copper extending in the fridge (because I needed to fit a squat quarter barrel) which I suspect is the problem. I plan on adding the fan to the set up.

My question is what size muffin fans are y'all using? I have a 90mm (3.54") laying around but it just seems too big.

 
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:04 PM   #714
IffyG
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Oct 2009
Nashville
Posts: 1,393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajsnow6234 View Post
Here is the magnet solution I'm using... Easy and preserves the bulb!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing. I'm gonna implement your solution on mine this weekend.

 
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:33 PM   #715
elganso
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Oct 2009
Chicago
Posts: 88
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Quote:
I am however getting about a half glass of foam in the first pour, but not warm beer.
If your beer is cold, your temp may not be the issue. The other factors are serving PSI (and fridge temp), line length and tube diameter. So, if you're getting a fast pour, that may be causing the foaming.

For what it's worth, IIRC, I use about 9 ft of 3/16 ID line at around 11-12 PSI at ~38 degrees.

 
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:32 PM   #716
pig140
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Sep 2012
West Monroe, Louisiana
Posts: 112
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I wondered about line length, but every pour past the first is perfect - unless it sits for a half hour or so. And am I supposed to be trying to dial in both lines - air and beer line? I'm using whatever lines came with the kit. I think it's 5' at 5/16" I.D. for air and 4' at 3/16" I.D. for beer line. My C02 bottle is outside the fridge if that matters. My pressure is holding at 12.5 PSI at usually 37 degrees.

 
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:52 AM   #717
siler
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Nov 2012
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im about to drill my hole in the top and im wondering if anyone has tried getting the copper pipes as close as they can to the cooling/freon to keep the tap cold. any thoughts? maybe to much condensation?

 
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:15 AM   #718
pig140
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
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Sep 2012
West Monroe, Louisiana
Posts: 112
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I used 3/4" copper and I got it close to coolant lines on both sides. I get a third to half glass of foam on the first pour. The beer is still fairly cold on the first pour, but not as cold as the second and after. Tho it's not as bad as some, I'm working on improving it.

 
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:17 PM   #719
csh
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Aug 2012
Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 20
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I've had this fridge for about five months and have been using the OEM controls to maintain temp. I ordered a Love TS-2 a while back and it has since been gathering dust in the box. I finally hooked it up today, using instructions from Schnitzengiggle and ClaudiusB.

I have everything hooked up in a really simple config:
OEM black -> 7
OEM white -> 8
OEM blue -> 11
OEM black jumpered from 7 to 10

The OEM yellow and red are connections for the light and door switch. The green is ground.

I still have the OEM temp controller in there because I don't know if I can cut/crimp the silver metal tube, the thing that isn't a wire. I don't want to cut it and find out that's where the coolant is. So, is it safe to cut this metal tube or not? If not, what do people normally do with that.

As for the fridge, I cut all the plastic shelves off the door. I am able to get two 5gal ball lock corneys with a 5lb co2 bottle and a dual gauge regulator. I'm pretty sure there's enough room to get a 3gal ball lock on the hump, too but I have not tried it.

If someone would like to see pics, I got some. I'm planning to post a bunch of stuff dealing with the build out of my entire beer bar -- it's more that just a kegerator. :-)

 
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:22 PM   #720
csh
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Aug 2012
Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csh View Post
I've had this fridge for about five months and have been using the OEM controls to maintain temp. I ordered a Love TS-2 a while back and it has since been gathering dust in the box. I finally hooked it up today, using instructions from Schnitzengiggle and ClaudiusB.

I have everything hooked up in a really simple config:
OEM black -> 7
OEM white -> 8
OEM blue -> 11
OEM black jumpered from 7 to 10

The OEM yellow and red are connections for the light and door switch. The green is ground.

I still have the OEM temp controller in there because I don't know if I can cut/crimp the silver metal tube, the thing that isn't a wire. I don't want to cut it and find out that's where the coolant is. So, is it safe to cut this metal tube or not? If not, what do people normally do with that.

As for the fridge, I cut all the plastic shelves off the door. I am able to get two 5gal ball lock corneys with a 5lb co2 bottle and a dual gauge regulator. I'm pretty sure there's enough room to get a 3gal ball lock on the hump, too but I have not tried it.

If someone would like to see pics, I got some. I'm planning to post a bunch of stuff dealing with the build out of my entire beer bar -- it's more that just a kegerator. :-)
OK. I found my own answer...

About page 54, there's a bit about someone who accidentally cut the cap tube, which seems to be required only if you're using the OEM thermostat. So, I sucked it up and cut the cap tube. The compressor is still running... Whew...

I decided to test the Love controller by setting the set point higher than the current temp and the compressor turned off. I then reset the set point lower than the current temp and... nothing.

After waiting for five minutes, which is the default value for the minimum off time, the compressor kicked back on.

Like I said above, my Love install is pretty simple. No light, no door switch. I just connected the live, neutral and compressor live to the controller.



 
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