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Old 11-27-2008, 02:58 AM   #21

Wow, I just did a blueberry mead using the staggered nutrient schedule and it went from 1.100 to 1.000 in 10 days! I just did a strawberry and blackberry mead 3 days ago and they are both down to 1.050 (from 1.100). You should do a search on this method...


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Old 11-27-2008, 04:26 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Poobah58 View Post
Wow, I just did a blueberry mead using the staggered nutrient schedule and it went from 1.100 to 1.000 in 10 days! I just did a strawberry and blackberry mead 3 days ago and they are both down to 1.050 (from 1.100). You should do a search on this method...
Or, just read the FAQ sticky at the top of this forum...



 
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Old 11-27-2008, 06:42 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by hightest View Post
Or, just read the FAQ sticky at the top of this forum...
I've read it - but didn't implement it! I'm gonna check my gravity in a week or so and see where I'm at.

Unless -- hey Brew_MU; is it bubbling? (it's at his house)

 
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Old 12-01-2008, 08:08 AM   #24
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I suppose I'll answer my own question when I take a reading this week; but should I just go ahead and add some yeast energizer and nutrient? I was in Phx this weekend and stocked up at the LHBS...

I'm a little worried that this fermentation is going a little slow; but then again, it's my first mead (melamel), and I know these things take time!

 
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Old 12-01-2008, 01:52 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by AZ_IPA View Post
I suppose I'll answer my own question when I take a reading this week; but should I just go ahead and add some yeast energizer and nutrient?
Actually, the reverse order would be best. Simply adding nutrients at any time one pleases is not the best practice. Adding too much, too late can contribute to problems (details are in the FAQs):
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Too large an influx of nitrogen can also be harmful to the yeasts. It throws the cell's metabolism off-balance leading to flavor problems, nitrogen wasting, and can even "yeast suicide", and fermenting too fast a can generate enough heat to kill the yeast.

Lastly, it is not necessarily a good practice to add nitrogen to a sluggish or stuck fermentation because it won't help and it CAN hurt! The nitrogen will not be used by the yeasts, and the excess can cause the pH to rise and off favors to be developed by stimulating spoilage microbe growth.
Depending upon whose nutrient addition protocol you follow, nutrients should never be added beyond the 30% (or 50%) sugar break.

 
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Old 12-02-2008, 02:30 AM   #26
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well the gravity is still dropping; albeit a little slow, so in typical frustration I wanted to do something.

I added 1/2 tsp. of yeast energizer and we'll see what happens.

And I thought mead was like the Ronco oven - set it and forget it!

 
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Old 12-02-2008, 06:35 PM   #27
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well here it is so far...


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Old 12-02-2008, 06:44 PM   #28
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well here it is so far...

Nice Man! Tha'ts a fine shade of color you've got yourself....it's going to be spectacular when it's clear!
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:25 AM   #29
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Actually that is a great looking batch of mead, give it 20X+ the time frame for brewing a beer and you will be happy.
My only problem in making mead was adjusting my brewing schedule for the long ferments. Then I said to heck with it and bought a few more carboys and kegs to bulk age it. Now the only problem is fridge space for the primary, oh and patience.
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:16 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Kauai_Kahuna View Post
Actually that is a great looking batch of mead, give it 20X+ the time frame for brewing a beer and you will be happy.
My only problem in making mead was adjusting my brewing schedule for the long ferments. Then I said to heck with it and bought a few more carboys and kegs to bulk age it. Now the only problem is fridge space for the primary, oh and patience.
yup - I bought a 3-gallon carboy just for Apfelwein. Then I made this mead a couple weeks ago, and bought a new 3 gallon carboy just for Apfelwein (again)



 
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