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Old 02-11-2012, 09:52 PM   #111
g-star
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Feb 2010
PA
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Cool. I'd just be cautious if you bottle, don't want bottle bombs if the AE keeps working after you prime. I'd wait at least a week to make sure your FG is steady.

 
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Old 02-11-2012, 11:20 PM   #112
Chriso
Broken Robot Brewing Co.
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Oct 2007
Someplace, Nebraska
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Brewed this today. (Finally!!) Did the malt bill almost identically - except I dropped 4 oz of the Munich. (Yeah. That's the only edit.)
The hops had to be changed due to my current stock, so I went Galena instead of Horizon for the bittering addition. I'll be subbing 0.25oz Galena for the 0.5 oz Glacier in the dry hop, as well, simply because I need to use the Galena up and don't have a particularly good Glacier sub handy.
I remember how awesome this was when I reviewed it as part of the 10der & Mild swap, and am looking forward to having some on tap - even if it's only half as good as BM's version was.
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:01 PM   #113
Hbhomebrew
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Nov 2011
Huntington beach, Ca
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Newby here, just making sure I understand the hopps additions. It says 75 minute boil and first hopp addition starts at 60 min first wort hop. Does that mean let boil for 15 minutes and then start hopp additions @ 60 min?

Thanks for the help, looking forward to brewing this recipe.

 
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:58 AM   #114
thrust
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Sep 2009
state college, pa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g-star View Post
Cool. I'd just be cautious if you bottle, don't want bottle bombs if the AE keeps working after you prime. I'd wait at least a week to make sure your FG is steady.
Absolutely! A few days following my last post, I was preparing to keg and took another gravity reading. The (final) FG was 1.016! The AE kept working as noted earlier in the thread.

At any rate, the beer is now dry-hopped in the keg and I forced carbed for two days at 30psi. Earlier today I reduced the pressure to 10 psi and pulled a sample. While it's still under-carbed, I must say it's in the top two beers I've brewed (the other being EdWort's Haus Pale Ale with my Honey Malt addition).

I can't wait to try this when it reaches optimum carbonation!

 
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:42 PM   #115
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Oct 2010
Estill Springs, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hbhomebrew View Post
Newby here, just making sure I understand the hopps additions. It says 75 minute boil and first hopp addition starts at 60 min first wort hop. Does that mean let boil for 15 minutes and then start hopp additions @ 60 min?

Thanks for the help, looking forward to brewing this recipe.
I'm easily confused and assume I would just chuck 'em in with first runnings and boil for 75 min
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:02 PM   #116
Snafu
 
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Apr 2009
Richmond, VA
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I'm still playing around with salt additions for this, would you use a standard pale ale water profile? Or because of all the speciality grains (malty), would you go more towards a brown or amber malty profile and just let the hops provide the bitterness?

My water;
CA - 13
Mg - 2
Na - 22
Cl - 12
So4 - 36
CaCO2 - 23

Pale Ale Profile
Ca - 165
Mg - 18
Na - 25
So4 - 300
Cl - 55
Bicarb - 180
So4/Cl = 5.5 (off the chart bitter)

or the "Brown Malty"
Ca - 60
Mg - 5
Na - 20
So4 - 28
Cl - 39
Bicarb - 160
So4/Cl = 0.7 (malty profile)

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Old 03-01-2012, 08:36 PM   #117
jmf143
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May 2010
Wixom, Michigan
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Lately I've been targeting 200 ppm of sulfate for my IPAs/APAs and really like the results. Chloride was sub-30 in each case.
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:55 PM   #118
Snafu
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmf143 View Post
Lately I've been targeting 200 ppm of sulfate for my IPAs/APAs and really like the results. Chloride was sub-30 in each case.
So a S/Cl ratio of 6.6? And I thought 5.5 was off the chart.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:10 AM   #119
blip01
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Mar 2011
haddonfield, nj
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Just put 5 gallons of this into the bucket. Hit 1.078 OG. Wort tasted great.

Using Wyeast 1272 with a starter.

 
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:50 AM   #120
blip01
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Mar 2011
haddonfield, nj
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8 days later, down to 1.022! Hydrometer sample tasted great!

Can't wait to keg this one.

 
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