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Old 10-13-2009, 03:22 AM   #41
JVD_X's Avatar
Jan 2008
Gainesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,478
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Originally Posted by Boerderij_Kabouter View Post
Gas heat is also easy to wire for control via PID. In fact I would argue it is just as easy aselectric, now that I've figured it out. For $190 you can wire up a PID controlled automatic firing control system for your existing burner.

Standing Pilot light burner with control $192.74
HONEYWELL VR8200A2124 24 Vac Dual Standing Pilot Gas Valve $61.99
1/4" OD Aluminum Pilot Tubing $10.00 Local Hardware 5'
Pilot bracket assembly - Honeywell Q314A6094 B Bracket $16.16
Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2 probe, M16 Thread $29.95
M16 flanged nut $3.69 McMaster-Carr 91005A039
Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller $41.95
3-way red LED Selector switch (burner ON/OFF/AUTO) $29.00

Is this specification for LP propane like you get from Lowes/Home Depot or for natural gas?

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Old 10-13-2009, 02:03 PM   #42
Boerderij_Kabouter's Avatar
Dec 2007
Oconomowoc, Wisconsin
Posts: 7,763
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This is for low pressure propane (<11 inWC) or natural gas. This assembly will not work with high pressure propane. I will be using it on the hurricane burners with low pressure propane.

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Old 12-09-2009, 01:54 AM   #43
Nov 2009
Posts: 84
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Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
More attention for obvious reasons.

#1 typically you are using propane, with no temp controller
#2 typically you are monitoring the MASH temp and you are not really aware of what the temp is in te bottom of the MLT

RIMS and HERMS many times use electric, whicih is easy to wire to a temp controller, so they are hands off.
Go get a $70 furnace valve and control your gas...

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Old 12-09-2009, 04:08 AM   #44
The Pol
Feb 2007
Posts: 11,454
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Originally Posted by BeerCrazy View Post
Go get a $70 furnace valve and control your gas...
Exactly, do that

Errr, this is a dead thread.

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Old 12-09-2009, 11:50 AM   #45
Sawdustguy's Avatar
Mar 2009
Manorville, New York
Posts: 2,708
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Originally Posted by BeerCrazy View Post
Go get a $70 furnace valve and control your gas...
The Honeywell valve they are talking about is a furnace valve. The reason it is expensive is because it has an intermittent pilot and controller which shuts the valve if no ignition is sensed.

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Old 05-05-2012, 11:05 PM   #46
Nov 2011
Posts: 2

Originally Posted by Kaiser View Post
I got the idea from a mash-tun design, where the whole mash (grains and liquid) are constantly pumped through a heated tube in order to raise and keep the mash temp.

When designing a heated mash system I'm also interested in being able to heat up the mash evenly. With the constant recirculating I'm afraid that, through channeling and the increased flow rate necessary, it will not be possible to heat the mash evenly.

But than again, I haven't build or used one and I'm just throwing my thoughts out here for discussion.

The main thing with herms/rims is clairifying worth, and that is by compacting the grainbed. Pumping the other way is totally waste of everything...
Herms/rims has one thing better than the rest... You get a better efficency, bacause of stable temperature and the sirculation, but loose some vital mash ingreedence like yeast nutrient. Stabillity is like the rest.....
The one thing is time savings... Nothing else
Happy brewday!

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Old 02-14-2013, 03:13 AM   #47
Feb 2013
Posts: 13

Im going to agree that I for myself have been doing single fusion mash and the beer that come out of it, many times over again are fabulous, and regarded better than most out there. Just do the yeast pitch properly and fermentation temperature and keep trucking. Why stop, change just to find out that it will not improve to the advantage of wow this was totally that much better than my single mash. It may never really happen. But good luck

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