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Old 11-03-2008, 06:45 PM   #11
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Do you leave the corny lid in when you boil? Are the dip tube ports providing enough of a vent for exhaust? One Idea I had was to get a single chromed out header for a car and attach it to the side of the corny. That'd redirect the exhaust and be bitchin' all at the same time.
What I did was I had the corny lid in the hole but it was hanging there and off to one side. I could move it around to vent it more or less.

I have cut 2 inches off the bottom of the corny now to get more air to the fire but have not played with it to see if it worked.

The plan was to do a 25 gallon batch of BM's Centennial Blonde this past weekend but my founds ran short so I pushed it back a few more weeks. Maybe by the end of the month.

As for the rate of flow I'm fine with it. But I think that if I can get a better (read more) heat out of the full flow it would be a lot easier to control the temp with just changing the flame.

My idea is I would run the water thru this and into my HLT where I can make adjustments as needed.
Once I get a pump I plan to use this to help get things to a boil faster also. Could even use it (with light flame) to do step mashes and mashouts.


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Old 11-03-2008, 08:10 PM   #12
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So did you have an all rubber top, or just a corny with a single handle? I don't have a mapp torch, but I do have a propane one for plumbing...think I could melt the rubber that way?

As to valves for control, I'd be careful about putting one on the out....you don't want the potential to build pressure in the system unless you want steam burns, etc.

Good info on keeping room on the bottom....I figured the burner had an adjustable orifice for intake, but I guess that's not enough.

I am so stoked to do this. I'm thinking about mounting the thing to a diamond plate base and putting it on the bottom shelf of my new rig. If I can find some cheap chromed exhaust tubing, I might even use that for intake/exhaust...


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Old 11-03-2008, 08:49 PM   #13
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So did you have an all rubber top, or just a corny with a single handle? I don't have a mapp torch, but I do have a propane one for plumbing...think I could melt the rubber that way?

As to valves for control, I'd be careful about putting one on the out....you don't want the potential to build pressure in the system unless you want steam burns, etc.

Good info on keeping room on the bottom....I figured the burner had an adjustable orifice for intake, but I guess that's not enough.

I am so stoked to do this. I'm thinking about mounting the thing to a diamond plate base and putting it on the bottom shelf of my new rig. If I can find some cheap chromed exhaust tubing, I might even use that for intake/exhaust...

Mine had the rubber top. Used the mapp gas to heat it and a regular screwdriver to pry it off. Then I used the toruch to burn off the rest. Then I sand blasted it to get it looking better.

As it was the burner did not change from half to full open and the flame was nothing like it was with nothing on it. So I know it was not getting enough air.


I really think this will make a brew day a lot faster, even more so once I get a pump.
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Old 11-05-2008, 01:57 AM   #14
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I'd just like to say...there is NOT enough discussion about such an awesome piece of equipment. C'mon guys....we're on the verge of going sub 4 hours on an all-grain brew!
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Old 11-05-2008, 04:44 AM   #15
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Instead of cutting up a corny keg why not use a 6" dia. piece of stove pipe as the tube. When you install the burner you need about 3-4" of clearance between top of burner to the bottom of the coils , and a gap between burner and tube for additional air to let gas burn completely. As to the tubing the coils need to be spread to completely fill inside of pipe so the hot gasses have to go through coils instead of up a central chimmney, here is an example Picasa Web Albums - Kevin - Boiler. Here is a reason that the flash boiler speeds up my brew day, from cold start to temperature in 45 secondsPicasa Web Albums - Kevin - Boiler Test. With a mass flow controller and a pid controller with a 0-5VDC output, one could automate the gas flow control for maintaining temperatures.
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Old 11-05-2008, 04:22 PM   #16
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I looked at the stove pipe at lowe's, but it ain't nearly as pretty as the SS. Maybe I could go that route to work out the bugs, then sacrifice a corny to the beast.

I plan on using 50' of 1/2" copper tube from a B3 immersion chiller (because it's what I have) and trying to coil it at varying diameters in a spiral...kind of a helix, I guess. I don't think I'll be able to make it as pretty as that SS tube you used. Hopefully the 1/2" copper won't be too big to properly heat the water....I guess I could slow things down so the water spends more time in there. Maybe I'll get some time to do this over the weekend.
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Old 11-05-2008, 05:17 PM   #17
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Don'T kill the immersion chiller because that much tubing is overkill, get 25' of 3/8" copper tube and roll it around 3" plastic pipe to make a coil, then spread coils horizontally to fill pipe. This should work even better than the stainless tube because of better heat transfer with copper tube. After tuning up the design in the stove pipe then sacrifice a corny keg for finished product, or better yet use the corny keg as a heat shield for the 6" inner pipe.
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Old 11-05-2008, 05:34 PM   #18
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As luck would have it, I also have my original IC (25' of 3/8") from when I first got started. I wasn't sure if 25' would be enough...as BP and FSR402 both used 50' of 3/8" copper. What kind of gpm at 180F do you think I can expect with 25'?
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Old 11-05-2008, 05:35 PM   #19
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I was going to go with the stove pipe but I had a keg that was no good so I used that..
If I get some time I think I'm going to uncoil mine and re coil it. The coils right now are so tight to eachother that I can't do much more with it. We will see uncoiling 50' of tube is not going to be a lot of fun.
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Old 11-05-2008, 11:16 PM   #20
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The 25' of 3/8" copper is almost equal in surface area to the 40' of 1/4" SS tube in old boiler, you should be able to hit 1 GPM @180 as the copper is a much better heat conductor than the SS tube. Feed cold water in the top and hot out bottom for best effiency with single tube boiler, bottom up with multiple tube boilers because of dissolved air in water blocking flow with air bubbles in tubes.


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