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Old 09-02-2008, 06:28 PM   #1
Cugel
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Default Heat resistant, food grade silicone?

Hey folks,

Just constructing my MLT. I need suggestions for some silicone that will seal the hole drilled through the cooler. Does anyone know of a heat resistant, food grade silicone that I can use?

Thanks!


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Old 09-02-2008, 06:38 PM   #2
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I have used 7545A471 from McMaster-Carr. I had a .75 inch hole in my MLT from where a temp probe went through and it has help up great so far for 9 months.

102, 103, 108, & 109) Multipurpose— Use for sealing, bonding, and gasketing. Won't run on overhead and vertical surfaces. Adhere to metal, glass, wood, silicone resin, vulcanized silicone rubber, ceramics, natural and synthetic fiber, and plastics. Begin to harden in 20 minutes. Temp. range is -75 to +400 F. Meet MIL-A-46106B, Group I, Type I. FDA compliant and USDA approved. NSF-51 certified for use with food equipment materials. UL recognized.

Mike


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Old 09-02-2008, 07:02 PM   #3
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Your bulkhead setup should include a gasket or Oring so you shouldn't really need any kind of goop.
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Old 09-02-2008, 07:20 PM   #4
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Thanks Mike. I'll look into getting that.

Bobby - I built the FlyGuy version of the bulkhead. I'm nervous that if the o-ring fails I'll get the innards of the cooler ruined. Seems like an inexpensive fix, even if probably not necessary.
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Relax, don't worry etc. and so on.

Primaries: Old Ale, Barleywine, ESB, Scottish 80/.
Secondaries: Lime Wine, Strawberry-Banana Mead, Carmenere (from 144 lbs of grapes!), Engl. Barleywine, Modded JOAM, Concord Grape Pyment.
Kegs: Choc/Coffee Stout, Saison, Dry Stout.
Bottles: Belgian Str. Dark, Dubbel, Cider X 2, Modded JOAM, RJS Pinot Noir, RJS Aussie Cab. Sauv.
Coming soon: Blueberry Mead.
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cugel View Post
Bobby - I built the FlyGuy version of the bulkhead. I'm nervous that if the o-ring fails I'll get the innards of the cooler ruined. Seems like an inexpensive fix, even if probably not necessary.
You are still using the original rubber seal from the spigot, right? If you use that, there is no way that the cooler should leak into the 'innards' of the cooler, unless you really overtighten everything.
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Old 09-03-2008, 02:25 PM   #6
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No, I have to drill my own hole... no pre-existing spigot in the cooler I'm converting.
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Relax, don't worry etc. and so on.

Primaries: Old Ale, Barleywine, ESB, Scottish 80/.
Secondaries: Lime Wine, Strawberry-Banana Mead, Carmenere (from 144 lbs of grapes!), Engl. Barleywine, Modded JOAM, Concord Grape Pyment.
Kegs: Choc/Coffee Stout, Saison, Dry Stout.
Bottles: Belgian Str. Dark, Dubbel, Cider X 2, Modded JOAM, RJS Pinot Noir, RJS Aussie Cab. Sauv.
Coming soon: Blueberry Mead.
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:03 PM   #7
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Ah -- I understand your need now.

Yes, you might need to reinforce the area between the walls of the cooler where you drilled. The gap can be substantial (as you already found out), and the bulkhead will seal better if you fill that gap somehow.

As Bobby mentions, however, as long as you have a high-temp, food-grade o-ring on the inside of the cooler, nothing should leak past it. Therefore, you won't need a food-grade product to fill the gap between the walls of the cooler where you drilled your hole.
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:51 PM   #8
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Flyguy - thanks for your response. You know what - I'll try the heat resistant o-ring and look for leaks afterward.

Thanks also for your work in getting all this info to us all!!!! I'm sure it'll work great once installed and sealed.
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Relax, don't worry etc. and so on.

Primaries: Old Ale, Barleywine, ESB, Scottish 80/.
Secondaries: Lime Wine, Strawberry-Banana Mead, Carmenere (from 144 lbs of grapes!), Engl. Barleywine, Modded JOAM, Concord Grape Pyment.
Kegs: Choc/Coffee Stout, Saison, Dry Stout.
Bottles: Belgian Str. Dark, Dubbel, Cider X 2, Modded JOAM, RJS Pinot Noir, RJS Aussie Cab. Sauv.
Coming soon: Blueberry Mead.
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:22 PM   #9
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The trick I've suggested to a few folks doing cooler conversions as a means to reinforcing the cooler wall is as follows:

Drill a small pilot hole through both walls from the outside (about 1/8"). That establishes centerline. Now drill the outer wall out to 1/4" larger diameter than the finished inside hole needs to be. You can continue through the insulation, but do NOT drill the inside wall with this large hole saw. Now switch the bit to be the "tight" inner wall hole and go ahead and drill that.

The larger outer wall hole is to allow for a piece of PVC pipe to be inserted to push on the inside part of the inner wall. You'll use a large enough washer on the outside to provide support on the other side of the PVC. If you can't find pvc that fits over your pipe nipple snuggly, you can slot a piece, compress it to fit into the hole, and then let go.

I'm horrible at describing things that could so easily be done with a picture.
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:30 PM   #10
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Makes perfect sense, Bobby. Great idea.


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