Ignore the Instructions,. Do not bottle after 5-10 days!!!!!! - Page 8 - Home Brew Forums
Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Ignore the Instructions,. Do not bottle after 5-10 days!!!!!!

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Old 05-30-2012, 09:23 AM   #71
Peppers16
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May 2012
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Good instructions but I don't get why you would sanitize your equipment after use. Clean it well, definitely! But what good is sanitizing potentially months before its next use?



 
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:45 PM   #72
timcadieux
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May 2011
Ottawa, Ontario
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Ok, I'll post a question in here too.

My brother in law was given some instructions from someone who had apparently been homebrewing for 30years or so. He used ONLY a primary (still figuring out terminology) and fermented for 2 weeks. He then bottled and left it for 2 weeks. His instructions were that having only a primary and leaving the yeast in the bottles provided a better beer.

I have to admit that I always tried to bottle after 2 weeks and over the course of a year, I may have gone a third week, due to lack of free time on occasion. I was actually worried in each case that I had ruined the beer by waiting too long. I'm seeing now that this would not likely be the case. I have to admit, I don't think I noticed any difference in taste, but its hard to tell after weeks and weeks, I forget what happened with each individual batch.

A few weeks ago, I made an English Bitter kit. After the 2weeks and 2weeks, I opened a few a figured I had ruined a batch. Then I got busy. About 3 weeks later, I realized I hadn't done anything with those bottles and so I tried one. Yummmmmmmm.

Hmm, there's no question here yet. Ok, here goes. I was happy with the single carboy (?) process because it saves space and accessories. I also liked the idea of the yeast staying in the bottle. Firstly, should I stick with 2 weeks or maybe move onto 3 weeks? Second, does it really make a difference, removing the yeast and moving the beer into another carboy (?) for aging/processing/conditioning? I'm starting to look at moving onto another stage of homebrewing which is adding DME instead of sugar, grains, etc. and I don't want to waste my time because i'm shortstepping the process.


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Old 10-03-2012, 10:58 PM   #73
akthor
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I do four weeks in primary. Do a search lots of info on why and the benefits. Basically the yeast are so good now the longer you let them do their thing the better.

You still have yeast in your beer even when you do use a secondary the only way to remove them is to filter the beer or kill them by adding something or pasteurizing ect. If you didn't still have yeasties in your beer when you bottled and added more sugar you wouldn't have any carbonation

I don't bottle but I believe you also want them to age like a month in the bottles for optimum taste and carbonation.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:25 PM   #74
mikecshultz
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Oct 2012
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I am fermenting my first batch right now. It is the chinook IPA extract kit from northern brewers. I started fermenting last Saturday. It started pretty vigorously and has been slowing steadily. I want to start a new batch this weekend. I am using a 6.5 glass carboy. The activity in the airlock has slowed to about one blurp a minute. I am planning on taking readings tomorrow (Friday) and then on Saturday. If they are the same I am going to rack it to a secondary fermenter (5gal glass carboy on Saturday and let it age in there for 1.5-2 weeks and then dry hop for 5-7 days. Bottle and let it condition in the bottles for about two weeks.

The kit tells me to primary for 1-2 weeks, secondary for 2-4 (dry hopping 5-7 days before bottling) and then bottle condition for 2 weeks.

Anyone think I am doing anything horribly wrong? I am going to rack to the secondary carboy no matter what to free up the space, and because I am dry hopping.

 
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:28 PM   #75
BigBlueDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecshultz View Post
Anyone think I am doing anything horribly wrong?
Horribly wrong, no. It's your beer. However, SG reading should be taken 2-3 days apart to be more confident they've reached a stable point.

 
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:37 PM   #76
mikecshultz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlueDog

Horribly wrong, no. It's your beer. However, SG reading should be taken 2-3 days apart to be more confident they've reached a stable point.
Ha! So maybe I will take readings tomorrow and Sunday, and then rack on Sunday if they are the same.

 
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:12 PM   #77
BrewerE
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Dec 2012
Omaha, NE
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Hi all, first post to clear up a question or two so I can do my first batch.

I have a TrueBrew Amber Ale Kit that has 2lbs of DME and a can of hopped LME it also has some hop pellets.
Per the instructions it says to add EVERYTHING (LME, DME, Hops) at boil and boil for 30min.
If I am reading the steps on this post (Originally Posted by Rezilynt pre-hopped canned kits) correctly I'm to add only the DME and boil it for 30min, then add the hopped LME after the heat is off, then cool the wort?

Where would I add the hop pellets?

The kit instructions are also saying to boil only 1-1/2 gallons of water, but I could do up to 3, should I do 3?

THANKS!

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Old 12-23-2012, 11:22 PM   #78
dk21
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Jul 2012
Lewisburg, PA
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Yikes! I read How to Brew, but was fortunate to have a very experienced brewer willing to help me get started. He suggested leaving all ales in the fermenter for four weeks. It's tough to wait, particularly for that first batch, but I can't argue with the results on my brews so far!

 
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Old 12-24-2012, 05:21 PM   #79
ncbrewer
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Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewerE View Post
Hi all, first post to clear up a question or two so I can do my first batch.

I have a TrueBrew Amber Ale Kit that has 2lbs of DME and a can of hopped LME it also has some hop pellets.
Per the instructions it says to add EVERYTHING (LME, DME, Hops) at boil and boil for 30min.
If I am reading the steps on this post (Originally Posted by Rezilynt pre-hopped canned kits) correctly I'm to add only the DME and boil it for 30min, then add the hopped LME after the heat is off, then cool the wort?

Where would I add the hop pellets?

The kit instructions are also saying to boil only 1-1/2 gallons of water, but I could do up to 3, should I do 3?

THANKS!
I hate to complicate things, but I used to buy hopped malt extract that needed to be boiled. Judging from Rezilyntís post, it looks like most of the hopped extracts these days have already been boiled with the hops. But if the kit instructions direct you to boil the hopped extract, maybe yours actually needs the boil to get the bitterness. Hopefully somebody will chime in here that knows about your particular kit. If not, you could contact the extract manufacturer and ask if your hopped extract needs to be boiled.

 
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:48 PM   #80
mohegan
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Feb 2013
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Can u skip the corn sugar to carbonate the beer in bottles and instead put into kegs or soda type kegs ? for like draft beer system..? instead of bottling..?



 
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