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Old 02-25-2010, 11:05 PM   #371
BrewBeemer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egurney View Post
Plugged and welded looks so much more sanitary besides professional vs hammering the end flat and folding it over. Tacky is the only kind word I can come up with at the moment. I would pot the probe in a little heat sink paste added to the end of the stainless tube then sink the probe into it for faster heat transfer.
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:32 AM   #372
The Pol
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Originally Posted by jim4065 View Post
Pol - I'll fess up - I lost the part #'s that I laboriously wrote down as I read all 37 pages the first time. Got the stirrer, propeller and shaft coupler numbers OK - but I'm having a hard time with the Loc-Line. Did you just use 10095K12 (the 1/2 by 13" line with a 1/2" nozzle) or did you combine other parts? I seem to recall a conversation about how hard it is to put a Gray gizmo on the line - but it's all a blur. Got Part #'s? Also - why did you use the PVC cap to hold the heater element instead of the locknut from Bargain fittings?
Because Bargain Fittings was not known at the time 7-2008, a lot of the fist electric rigs out there were using CPVC and such. Since then E-rigs have evolved a lot, as you have witnessed here on HBT alone. I have used the BF nuts, but right now I prefer SS half couplers as they are more cost effective and provide a smaller dia. footprint (able to mount elements lower when doing a side install)

The LocLine is easy to assemble until you get to the threaded adapter, that is difficult. I boiled mine, used oven mits, and smashed them together, or you can buy the tool that McMaster sells.

Just picked up some 304 SS square tube today for $35 per 20' length... cutting and TIG welding that next week for another build...


 
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:39 AM   #373
The Pol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjones View Post
could you maybe post a pic of thermowell deal of putting the thermocouple in the hlt?
I cant seem to locate a photo, and no longer own this rig... sorry. Ever seen the thermowells that they sell for fermenting? It is just like that, but without the airlock hole.

 
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:11 AM   #374
BrewBeemer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
Because Bargain Fittings was not known at the time 7-2008, a lot of the fist electric rigs out there were using CPVC and such. Since then E-rigs have evolved a lot, as you have witnessed here on HBT alone. I have used the BF nuts, but right now I prefer SS half couplers as they are more cost effective and provide a smaller dia. footprint (able to mount elements lower when doing a side install)

The LocLine is easy to assemble until you get to the threaded adapter, that is difficult. I boiled mine, used oven mits, and smashed them together, or you can buy the tool that McMaster sells.

Just picked up some 304 SS square tube today for $35 per 20' length... cutting and TIG welding that next week for another build...

That's strange my first electric brewery assembled in 100% stainless I Tig welded my own dry well plugs back in January 1992 after I purchased my second Miller 350 Tig welder. I used those mechanical 1 1/2" dial pocket thermometers you thumped to move the needle 4 degrees.You were probably having your milk and gram crackers then your nap time in school back then.
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Old 02-26-2010, 04:30 AM   #375
Dog House Brew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
Because Bargain Fittings was not known at the time 7-2008, a lot of the fist electric rigs out there were using CPVC and such. Since then E-rigs have evolved a lot, as you have witnessed here on HBT alone. I have used the BF nuts, but right now I prefer SS half couplers as they are more cost effective and provide a smaller dia. footprint (able to mount elements lower when doing a side install)

The LocLine is easy to assemble until you get to the threaded adapter, that is difficult. I boiled mine, used oven mits, and smashed them together, or you can buy the tool that McMaster sells.

Just picked up some 304 SS square tube today for $35 per 20' length... cutting and TIG welding that next week for another build...
What size square tube are you using? $35 sounds like a deal
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Old 02-26-2010, 05:26 AM   #376
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I am in the process of setting up The Pol's HERM system and I have a few questions regarding the grounding and wiring of everything. Not real knowledgeable in the electrical dept, so I was hoping someone could help me out. Both the Element and stir motor only have two wires\terminals and I know it is best to ground them.

How am I supposed to do this when there is no ground terminal?
Do I just screw the ground in with the common? If so, I was going to just wire the ground into a triple gang box and back to the pug and panel. This would be better than grounding to a metal plate, correct? ( I have a wood stand)

Pol, how did you mount your stir motor on the top of the cooler? I know there and threaded holes on the bottom, but I do not want to put holes all the way through the lid for this. What type of wire did you use to wire the stir motor up to your switches?

Thanks, Scott...

 
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:22 AM   #377
The Pol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dog House Brew View Post
What size square tube are you using? $35 sounds like a deal
1.25" square tube

.125" wall

Free Tig Weld and chemical cleanup of the steel

I have a friend in the business.

$35 per 20' is the cost of mild steel... $199 for 20' was the cost of SS before the "discount"

Peace....


 
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:00 PM   #378
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My build is progressing slowly - mostly 'cause I keep adding to it. The latest thing that I want is a simple timed alarm - set it for 30 or 60 minutes (or whatever) to sound a LOUD alarm so that I remember to set the PID to the next temperature for the mash. Seems really simple - but I've been looking for a "cheap" alarm that's audible (excludes kitchen alarms) that works off 110 volts and mounts in the control panel with no luck. Even the timer on the Auber website is kinda high considering what I want to do. Is anyone else doing this and can point me in the right direction? I hate wearing watches - and the ones with an alarm are not really audible if I'm working in the shop.

 
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Old 08-23-2010, 07:58 PM   #379
fc36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
Hrmmm, mine was 1/2".... maybe you will have to?
Pol, I know this is much much later, but where exactly did you find a 12" false bottom with a 1/2" elbow barb? I can only find the 12" fb with 3/8" and I don't wanna run all around Chicago looking for a 1/2" fitting in SS that may not exist. Might be easier to return mine and buy a new fb with the right 1/2" fitting.

 
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Old 08-24-2010, 01:14 AM   #380
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Fc36,

I am obviously not Pol, I think he has stopped using this forum over some drama with another one of his builds. Anyways I read in this post where he said that his elbow barb was 3/8" and he didn't think it would cause a problem. There is a possibility that he changed it later but I have not ever read that he did for sure. I see you quoted him saying his was 1/2", is he referring to his false bottom barb?

Anyways I have a nearly identical MLT and I use a 3/8 SS barb. I really have no way of knowing if would get more flow out of a 1/2" (everything else in my setup is 1/2") but I can say that it doesn't bottleneck my system. Mcmaster Carr has 1/2inch barb to 1/2" NPT elbow's but I think they are crazy expensive. Maybe try bargainfittings, if you must have it 1/2" you could use a 1/2" street elbow and a normal barb.
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