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Old 08-30-2011, 03:39 PM   #401
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I have to admit, I've never kegged before so I'm making an educated guess here.

The reason a diffusion stone works aerating your wort is because of the velocity of the oxygen running through it. If you were to turn on your shower all the way you get a separated spray. But if you turn it on just a little you still get a single, collected stream, defeating the purpose of the shower head. I would think a diffusion stone in a keg would help a little when you first apply pressure and the CO2 is steadily running through the stone, but once the pressure is to a regulated point, it's only very slowly running through that stone. It would seem it wouldn't make much difference at that point.


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Old 08-30-2011, 04:23 PM   #402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewer3401 View Post
I believe it MAY speed up the carbonation process.

But, if you've ever used a stone to aerate wort or a starter, you do see bubbles coming to the top of the surface.

However, aerating with a stone does put some oxygen into the wort.

If you need quick beer, do the "pressure up to maintenance and shake the guts out of the keg" method.
Hang on a sec... the use of the diffusion doesn't put oxygen in when you're putting pressurized co2 through it.

It does speed up carbonation when you're doing the set and forget method because you're adding more surface area to the co2/beer but it is only effective as co2 is streaming in. Another way to illustrate this point is that if your keg had a diameter of 48" and the beer only filled it to 1" high, it would carb extremely quickly because of all the contact between the beer/headspace.


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Old 08-30-2011, 05:54 PM   #403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
Hang on a sec... the use of the diffusion doesn't put oxygen in when you're putting pressurized co2 through it.

It does speed up carbonation when you're doing the set and forget method because you're adding more surface area to the co2/beer but it is only effective as co2 is streaming in. Another way to illustrate this point is that if your keg had a diameter of 48" and the beer only filled it to 1" high, it would carb extremely quickly because of all the contact between the beer/headspace.
Thanks. Makes sense.

However, I'm confused due to this particular description on Austin Home Brew's site (0.5 micron stone):

" The holes in the stone are too fine to use it to aerate the wort with an aeration pump. However, compared with the 2.0 micron stone, the 0.5 micron stone will carbonate beer quicker and with a longer lasting head because the bubbles that it creates are smaller. "

Then it goes on to say:

"Chill the beer to 40 F. Adjust the regulator to 2 PSI and attach the gas disconnect. Every 3 minutes increase the pressure 2 PSI until 12 PSI is reached. At this point the beer will be carbonated, but it won’t hurt to leave it alone in the refrigerator for a few days under pressure."

Sounds to me like this is saying that I can use a diffusion stone to pretty much complete the carbonation process in under 30 minutes.

Doesn't seem likely.


Here is the link:
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produc...ducts_id=10511
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Old 08-30-2011, 07:24 PM   #404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haputanlas View Post
Thanks. Makes sense.

However, I'm confused due to this particular description on Austin Home Brew's site (0.5 micron stone):

" The holes in the stone are too fine to use it to aerate the wort with an aeration pump. However, compared with the 2.0 micron stone, the 0.5 micron stone will carbonate beer quicker and with a longer lasting head because the bubbles that it creates are smaller. "

Then it goes on to say:

"Chill the beer to 40 F. Adjust the regulator to 2 PSI and attach the gas disconnect. Every 3 minutes increase the pressure 2 PSI until 12 PSI is reached. At this point the beer will be carbonated, but it wont hurt to leave it alone in the refrigerator for a few days under pressure."

Sounds to me like this is saying that I can use a diffusion stone to pretty much complete the carbonation process in under 30 minutes.

Doesn't seem likely.


Here is the link:
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/produc...ducts_id=10511

I think this answers my concern:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/thes...ns-b-s-189644/

Looks like a marketing scheme that's full of $#!t
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:09 PM   #405
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One more time:

I do the 24 hour at 30 psi at 34 F then to maintenance pressure for 10-14 days.

Anyone ever try 48 hours, then to maintenance pressure ?

Would this lessen the 10-14 days ?
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:19 PM   #406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewer3401 View Post
One more time:

I do the 24 hour at 30 psi at 34 F then to maintenance pressure for 10-14 days.

Anyone ever try 48 hours, then to maintenance pressure ?

Would this lessen the 10-14 days ?
I have tried the 48 hour then maintenance pressure. I get mixed results. Half the time, I reduce the 10-14 days to 3-4 days. But it still takes a good week to have what I call a nicely carbonated beer. The other half the time, the beer is overcarbonated a bit (and foams on pouring) and takes 10-14 days to get back to good pressure. I think somehow it has something to do with high pressure CO2 in the air space and it takes time for it to get absorbed into the beer because it fixes itself over time (10-14 days). So my current strategy is to have a pipeline. I do 24 hours at about 35 PSI and then at least a week to two weeks at maintenance pressure. I also don't shake the keg since I use gelatin right in the keg. Even my wheat beers are crystal clear...
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:20 PM   #407
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Good thoughts. Thanks very much for the info.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:02 PM   #408
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My best results have been to throw a room temp keg in the keezer and gas at 55-60psi for 24hrs. Then I release pressure and dial back to 12 psi. Most beers are drinkable at low carb after the 24hrs. If I plan on bottling the brew I will let it sit at the desired PSI for at least 4 days to make sure the pressure has balanced out.

I have never over carbed this way. In a couple cases I was in a hurry for a hefe and I left it on 36-48 hours and it was a close to perfect carb. On one instance I left it longer than 48 and it overcarbed.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:06 PM   #409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CidahMastah View Post
My best results have been to throw a room temp keg in the keezer and gas at 55-60psi for 24hrs. Then I release pressure and dial back to 12 psi. Most beers are drinkable at low carb after the 24hrs. If I plan on bottling the brew I will let it sit at the desired PSI for at least 4 days to make sure the pressure has balanced out.

I have never over carbed this way. In a couple cases I was in a hurry for a hefe and I left it on 36-48 hours and it was a close to perfect carb. On one instance I left it longer than 48 and it overcarbed.
I just dry hopped an APA (dry for 10 days), then 2 weeks or so in the brite tank, then keg.

I'm going to do the 60 psi for 24 hours at 34 F

A little jammed for time, so if this speeds things up, I'll have a little breathing room before I bottle.
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Old 09-14-2011, 03:47 PM   #410
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I hear ya on that!

Just be sure that if you try the beer after the 24 hours, depressurize before you hook up to it!! Remember that not all the gas is happy being forced in there at high pressure so (I think )... If you depressurize, then dilly dally for a few minutes, the pressure will build back up (not as bad as 60PSI of course, but it might cause your impending first pour to foam out of your tap unless you burp it again and pour slow off the natural build up of pressure). Make sense?

So after 24hrs if you want to sample...
1. get glass ready, turn pressure off.
2. Burp keg completely.
3. hook up to your tap and open it fully. It may pour slow but it will continue to pour off the built up CO2. If not, you can goose it a little.

a couple notes. This seems to work the fastest on the brews I leave in the primary for 3 weeks and or dry hop. If you are rushing a young beer like hefe 10 days out of the keg *I think* it is still trying to degas a bit and the force carb takes a little bit longer. This could just be my personal experience though.

I think my keezer is right aroung 34-36F, sometime I get frozen lines if I let them hang out at the bottom of the keezer. So your temp should be fine.

Good luck


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