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Old 09-10-2008, 03:51 PM   #21
rabidgerbil
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another good reason for NOT using salt, if you can be effective with out it, is that you
can then go water the grass with the water when you are done...
don't do that if you used salt...
then dump it in the neighbors yard.


and my apologies if someone else already said that and i missed it...
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Old 09-10-2008, 03:58 PM   #22
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Well I still need to find a good way to use the water that will be going through the CFC. My mash tun is already cleaned by that point since I do that during the boil. I could put some into the HLT to use to clean the lines and the boil kettle, maybe more into a 5 gallon bucket to clean up random brewing stuff. I don't really want to try to keep the water for the next brew since it will be going through a garden hose.
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Old 09-10-2008, 04:16 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by conpewter View Post
Well I still need to find a good way to use the water that will be going through the CFC.
Dump it into your washing machine and do a load of laundry.
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Old 09-10-2008, 10:59 PM   #24
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I have not used salt and even in the AZ desert haven't had a need to with the ice.
We used a digital infared to measure instant temps. An addition I've made to my HOE Chiller is this http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/inli...njector-76613/ It cut one more step out of the process.
Ok so I'm a bit wasteful. My CFC waters the street, but only for about 15 minutes.
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Old 09-10-2008, 11:10 PM   #25
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Wow. Nice chiller. Do you have any more pics of the construction of it?

How do you sanitize it?
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Old 09-10-2008, 11:22 PM   #26
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Sorry no more pics. I was working with a mental image of what I was after so didn't take the time to snap pics during construction.
I clean it after each use by sending the oxyclean that was soaking the BK through it and then rinse with another 5 gallons of water. To sanitize it, 15 min from end of boil I recirc boiling wort through it before hooking the hose up or adding ice.
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Originally Posted by the_bird View Post
"I've got a fever... and the only prescription is, MORE CARBOYS!"
primary- Tangerine Dream, SWMBO slayer,
serving- amber ale hop experiment #6, Roggenbier, apfelwine
planning- Cru?
conditioning- 9/9/09 barleywine
Drink water?... Never, fish fornicate in it.--- W.C. Fields
Most problems can be solved with the proper application of force.

 
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Old 09-10-2008, 11:51 PM   #27
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Wow, lots of good chiller threads on here now.
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Old 09-11-2008, 04:41 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Wow, lots of good chiller threads on here now.
Fo' sho'.

I have a prechiller I haven't been using. I think I'm going to use it to build one of these when I start doing 10 gallon batches. My 25' IC is too pathetic even for five gallons.
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Old 09-11-2008, 07:42 PM   #29
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Yep, I have a IC that I need to use as a pre or post chiller depending.
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:07 PM   #30
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I have been using a 30 plate lately instead of the H.O.E. chiller. While the H.O.E. worked very well with the high ground water temps in Phoenix, I got tired of going out at 5 am on brewday to buy 20 lbs of ice(you have to start brewing early here if you want to get inside by 120*). The 30 plate worked very well, but science wouldn't allow me to get around the actual ground water temp being higher than pitch temp. Damn it, I want single pass chilling, faster, cheaper, greener. Its too hot out here in the summer to be wasting time draining through a 1/4 ID tube. So a new plan is in order.
Using ideas from kladue and Yorg I have designed in my mind an advanced chiller option. It would consist of two plates, a 5G(40lb) ice bank built inside a cornie, and a water cooler refrigeration system as a reservoir.
Coolant would flow from the reservoir through the ice bank into the secondary plate. This would drop the temp to between lagering and ale pitch temps. From the secondary plate the coolant would flow to the primary plate which would do the brunt of the work dropping the temp of the wort to around 90*. Then the coolant would flow back to the reservoir to remove some heat before going back to the ice bank for the remaining cooling before reircing through the system again.
The coolant temp going into the primary plate would be no more than 80* dropping the wort temp to about 90* or less. The wort would travel through the secondary plate to drop the pitch temp to between lager and ale. I didn't just pull these #s out of my a$$, while testing my porn last weekend I noticed that coolant flow output temp was very close to summer GW temps making me think that by adding another chiller and reducing coolant temps I could make a closed system which would chill and reduce wastewater.
The purpose of the water cooler is to lower the temp of the coolant so the ice bank wont melt to soon. After all I'm trying to build a mobile automatic rig. A cornie will be used for the ice bank because as the water/salt solution freezes in a cylinder it will push up instead of splitting the container. Also a solid block of ice wont melt as fast in the desert heat as would crushed or cubed. At this point many of you will say that solid ice wont cool as quickly as crushed, cubed. The ice bank will have a 20" coil inside that the coolant will flow through. I need the bank to last 4-5 hours in 120* weather before use that is why I'm working with a solid ice bank vs cubed or crushed. The 20' coil should reduce the coolant temp to that of the salted ice.
I have had a few during the conception and planning of this new design so I welcome all criticisms about why this wont work or improvements you would make.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_bird View Post
"I've got a fever... and the only prescription is, MORE CARBOYS!"
primary- Tangerine Dream, SWMBO slayer,
serving- amber ale hop experiment #6, Roggenbier, apfelwine
planning- Cru?
conditioning- 9/9/09 barleywine
Drink water?... Never, fish fornicate in it.--- W.C. Fields
Most problems can be solved with the proper application of force.

 
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