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Old 07-22-2008, 02:54 PM   #1
Schmidty
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Nov 2007
Central Wisconsin
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I'm going to be adding a spigot to my boil pot, not a keggle, and I was wondering if the size of the dip tube from the spigot makes a difference. I was thinking that I'd go with 1/2" hard copper pipe. The only problem I may run into is that my pot is 11" tall and 20" around, so leaving too much space at the bottom could mean that I'm leaving quite a bit of wort in the bottom of the kettle. Here are some pictures of my new kettle http://picasaweb.google.com/bjschmid/NewBrewpot. With a 1/2" left in the pot that comes out to about 1/2 gallon. I'm thinking I'll try to keep the dip tube close to the side of the pot and use a bazooka T on the very bottom of the pot so I can tilt the pot when it gets low, or I could just up my recipes to 5 1/2 to 6 gallons. Has anyone run into this before? Any suggestions?
Oh and I'm going to be using a CFC so it needs to be somewhat filtered

 
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Old 07-22-2008, 05:21 PM   #2
Chriso
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I've not heard many people say they were satisfied with their bazooka tubes. FWIW they're fairly coarse mesh, too.

The Hopstopper has gotten rave reviews from many brewers on this forum. Many people have DIYed it too.

That being said, I've not found a huge need for any screen. I'm adding a dip tube to my keggle sometime soon, and I plan to just make it bend down 1" from where the hole currently lies. If you whirlpool your wort for 20 seconds after you turn off the flame, then let it sit for about 60 seconds before you open the valve to flow through your CFC, it forms a nice cone of "gunk" in the middle of the kettle, and your dip tube doesn't suck nearly as much crap up.
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Old 07-22-2008, 06:16 PM   #3
Bobby_M
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Use hop bag and just run the dip tube wide open. Leave 1/4" gap between the bottom of the kettle and the bottom of the dip tube. You could run it right to the bottom, but make a few 1/8" slots in the very bottom edge.
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Old 07-22-2008, 06:42 PM   #4
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I just tip, works great

 
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Old 07-22-2008, 07:29 PM   #5
Orfy
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Can't get simpler than this apart from tipping.



it does a good job.

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Old 07-23-2008, 11:57 PM   #6
Schmidty
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Nov 2007
Central Wisconsin
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Well I got it drilled and the dip tube is in. I did a test run today and I only left about 2-3 cups of water behind. I think I'll just put a choreboy scrubber around it and call it good. I got to test my CFC too, went from 180 going in and 65 coming out. I guess I'll need to play around with my flow rates a little.

Thanks for the ideas everyone.

 
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Old 07-24-2008, 12:24 AM   #7
billtzk
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Apr 2007
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It sounds like your flow rate must be fine. 65 coming out is ideal for pitching most ale yeast, and it's better to start out a little cool than a little warm. The yeast, when they become fruitful and multiply, will warm up the ale over the next few days.

 
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Old 08-03-2008, 03:31 AM   #8
BlindLemonLars
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So today was the day I set aside to finally install a thermometer and ball valve in my stainless, flat-bottomed kettle. I got a thermometer from eBay, a weldless kit from Bargain Fittings, and some miscellaneous fittings and copper tubing from a local hardware store. My plan was to fabricate a dip tube from the tubing and attach it with a compression fitting adapter. The tube was to gracefully turn and arch down to the bottom of the pot right near the edge...it wouldn't be easy, but I filled the tubing with salt and taped the ends to make bending easier. I did all the easier stuff first: drilled the holes, mounted the thermometer, and saved the tricky copper shaping for last.

Then I notice the 1/2" stainless elbow I bought. Hmmnn....the dimensions seem right. Yep, if I replace the coupler with the elbow, the other end of it sits about 3/16" off the bottom of the pot. Plus it's right by the edge, so it won't interfere much with whirlpooling, and should pickup clear wort. I use a hop-bag rig when I boil, so I don't need a screen. As an added bonus, there is a lot less copper and brass on the inside of the pot...just the retaining nut for the thermometer.

Can it be this simple?!? My preliminary test left about a cup of water in the kettle, if I tilt it slightly towards the end.


 
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:19 PM   #9
twst1up
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Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlindLemonLars View Post
So today was the day I set aside to finally install a thermometer and ball valve in my stainless, flat-bottomed kettle. I got a thermometer from eBay, a weldless kit from Bargain Fittings, and some miscellaneous fittings and copper tubing from a local hardware store. My plan was to fabricate a dip tube from the tubing and attach it with a compression fitting adapter. The tube was to gracefully turn and arch down to the bottom of the pot right near the edge...it wouldn't be easy, but I filled the tubing with salt and taped the ends to make bending easier. I did all the easier stuff first: drilled the holes, mounted the thermometer, and saved the tricky copper shaping for last.

Then I notice the 1/2" stainless elbow I bought. Hmmnn....the dimensions seem right. Yep, if I replace the coupler with the elbow, the other end of it sits about 3/16" off the bottom of the pot. Plus it's right by the edge, so it won't interfere much with whirlpooling, and should pickup clear wort. I use a hop-bag rig when I boil, so I don't need a screen. As an added bonus, there is a lot less copper and brass on the inside of the pot...just the retaining nut for the thermometer.

Can it be this simple?!? My preliminary test left about a cup of water in the kettle, if I tilt it slightly towards the end.

I'm really interested in what some of the forum guru's have to say about this. Makes sense to me.
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:24 PM   #10
Boerderij_Kabouter
 
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Looks awesome to me... The only conceivable issue is the threads, but sitting in a boiling liquid for an hour will take care of anything that could have been growing in the threads anyway. I think you have a pretty slick setup there!

btw: you should replace that locknut with a stainless one just so it matches all the bling!

 
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