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Old 03-17-2006, 05:25 AM   #1
davidkrau
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I've read with interest the dialog with respect to bazooka tubs and copper manifolds. With respect to square or rectangular coolers I think the easiest and cheepiest way to go is with 1 inch PVC Pipe and fittings. PVC is easy to saw with a hacksaw. and I drilled a zillion 1/32 inch holes. The pipe slides easily into the fittings and I used no glue so that the manifold can be easily taken apart for cleaning. Just like children's tinker toys. No soldering or welding and PVC is as cheap as dirt.

 
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Old 03-17-2006, 06:14 AM   #2
Indiana Red
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Sounds good to me. Though I admit is a lot less common than the other two methodes you mentioned. I have the bazooka tube type set-up and it works well. I don't know why PVC wouldn't do a ood job too though.
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Old 03-17-2006, 01:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidkrau
PVC is easy to saw with a hacksaw. and I drilled a zillion 1/32 inch holes.
Sounds great. Wouldn't it be easier and less tedius to cut slits with a hacksaw, instead of drilling all those holes?
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Old 03-17-2006, 01:38 PM   #4
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Not an expert here but from what I have read be sure and use CPVC instead of PVC due to the heat in the process. It's a little more expensive and perhaps someone else here can reply as to exactly why ....
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Old 03-17-2006, 01:47 PM   #5
davidkrau
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You're right sawing slits with a hacksaw would have easier. I wish I thought of that first. 1/32 inch drill bitts ain't east to find. had to go to a hobby store. 89 cents each and I broke 2. They are very tiny. Anyway I got my directions from a library book, ( Building Brewing Equipment}- not the exact name of the book but close.

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Old 03-17-2006, 01:50 PM   #6
Baron von BeeGee
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Yep, PVC is not appropriate for a mashtun manifold...it doesn't have heat resistance above ~140F. C-PVC will go up to 200-220F. Make sure to use glue specified for C-PVC.

 
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Old 03-17-2006, 02:12 PM   #7
davidkrau
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You must have read the same book I did. They suggested CPVC. Home Depot was out of some of the fittings that I needed and the guy in the plumbing dept thought that PVC would work. I used it once, the max temp was sparging, 170F but by the time the water hit the grain I doubt if it was that hot. Anyway, nothing melted. If I have to I can rebuild it with CPVC. I'd cut the slits with a hacksaw and since I know the length of the pipe I probably wouldn't take me more than 15 minutes.

 
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Old 03-17-2006, 02:42 PM   #8
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Do you have any pics you could post. I am interested in doing a manifold, my stainless steel braid setup is a pain in the but, but I'm not sure exactly how a manifold would connect to a bulkhead/valve setup out the cooler.

Just curious,

Matt

 
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Old 03-17-2006, 02:55 PM   #9
cowain
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At some point, I'll get off my lazy ass and post pics of the one I just made. I used CPVC for everything, glued nothing and it worked like a charm making my big belgian.

After getting the CPVC, I wondered if the PVC would have worked, because the temp ratings on the side of the CPVC were at a certain PSI. Since the PSI in the mash tun would be fairly low, I wonder if PVC would be fine. Of course, I didn't notice a difference in price of anything, so it's probably not worth the risk since you wouldn't save any money.

 
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Old 03-17-2006, 03:25 PM   #10
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I think the issue with PVC at high temperatures it that it releases hydrogen chloride...I'd be seriously concerned about using PVC at mash temperatures, but admittedly I'm not a chemist so I don't know how serious these issues are.

 
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