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Old 07-16-2008, 05:29 PM   #1
Tenchiro
 
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Man I feel like such a newb sometimes when it comes to brewing. I had always wondered why extract brewing creates a darker beer than all grain. So I looked it up and it turns out the primary reason is the concentrated boil that most of us seem to be doing...

So the question is, with a full wort boil using malt extract, can you brew the light straw colored Hefewiezens and Witbiers you see from the all grain brewers? Would you still need to worry about doing the late addition extracts or could you boil all the extract for the full 60 minutes?
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:33 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tenchiro View Post
Man I feel like such a newb sometimes when it comes to brewing. I had always wondered why extract brewing creates a darker beer than all grain. So I looked it up and it turns out the primary reason is the concentrated boil that most of us seem to be doing...

So the question is, with a full wort boil using malt extract, can you brew the light straw colored Hefewiezens and Witbiers you see from the all grain brewers? Would you still need to worry about doing the late addition extracts or could you boil all the extract for the full 60 minutes?
I noticed a much better color when I did full extract boils. My last hefe was just right, and the light lager is almost clear! It seems I always had a darker orangish tinge to everything that was boiled concentrated, but I thought it was just me!
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:45 PM   #3
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Good to know! I'm about ready to start doing full boils with extract.

 
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:47 PM   #4
Choguy03
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Late addition with your extract will also help keep the extract from oxidizing and giving you darker then wanted color.
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:54 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Choguy03 View Post
Late addition with your extract will also help keep the extract from oxidizing and giving you darker then wanted color.
I normally do, but as Taipans said I still noticed an orange tinge on by brews. Although it does help tremendously with the overall color of the beer. I think I need to step up to full boils soon.
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:56 PM   #6
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Remember also that extract is the product of an already boiled wort. I've steeping grains and boiling that for the 60 minutes to also utilize hops, per the recipe, and adding the extract in the last 15 minutes to pasteurize it and fully assimilate it into the entire mixture. This, combined with full boils has produced a better tasting, properly colored wort/beer.

 
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:57 PM   #7
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Full boils for me made a world of difference in the finished product, and moving to partial mash made an even bigger difference quality/freshness wise as well as cost wise. In the last few brews I have made I havent used more than a 3.3lb jug of LME.

 
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:58 PM   #8

You should be able to added the extract right at the start of the full boil.

Be advised you need to do these 5 things!!!

1) Make sure the burner is OFF! Otherwise you will get burnt carmelized extract. Boil water, flame-out, add extract stir like crazy and crank her up to boil then add the hops.

2) Reduce bittering hop quantity for improved utilization. http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter5-5.html

3) Also add an extra gallon of water if you still want 5 gallons after its done boiling.

4) At 45 minutes into the boil add a wort chiller, w/o it it will take a long time to cool and you will get DMS in your beer (DMS - Cooked Vegi taste)

5) Aerate your cooled 5 gal of wort with a syphon-nozzle, paint mixer, shaking or with oxygen. Do so in the fermenter.
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:59 PM   #9
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When I do steeping with DME I will steep grains equilalent 1 lb of DME for 45 mins (with the hops) then remove the pot from the heat then add the DME and steep for 15 mins...
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Old 07-16-2008, 06:24 PM   #10
Proofman
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LME darkens as it gets older. Try going with all DME.

 
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