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Old 07-15-2008, 12:39 AM   #11
cdburg
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Sep 2006
Sacramento, CA
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The polishing is definitely a huge PITA. The design we settled on used a lot of seam welds that all needed to be ground and then sanded before polishing. I've been grinding and sanding for weeks. When it's all done though, it should look very nice.

I'll post the final pictures when it's all polished, probably next weekend. Thanks again for your help.

 
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:30 PM   #12
cdburg
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Sep 2006
Sacramento, CA
Posts: 362
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Time to dig up my own ancient post to see if anyone has thoughts on troubleshooting an issue with the Honeywell valve. During my last brew day, I ran into an issue with the valve not lighting the pilot. The auto spark ran, but the valve never seemed to recognize the spark and turn on the gas to the pilot light. I was able to hold a flame from a lighter over the sensor to get the valve to turn on the main gas, so the brew day wasn't lost.

I disconnected and reattached all of the wires on the valve, and it didn't change anything. It doesn't seem to be a loose connection. Any thoughts on troubleshooting the pilot gas supply?

 
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:17 PM   #13
cdburg
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Sep 2006
Sacramento, CA
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In case it helps anyone down the road, check your pilot burner orifice first, to make sure it's clear.

I took apart the entire Honeywell valve setup (controller and valve) and swapped out the thermocouple, and it didn't change anything. Only then did I think to check the pilot burner. The orifice inside it was completely blocked. I cleaned it out, and the problem is solved. On the bright side, I now have backup parts for the entire automated burner set up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdburg View Post
Time to dig up my own ancient post to see if anyone has thoughts on troubleshooting an issue with the Honeywell valve. During my last brew day, I ran into an issue with the valve not lighting the pilot. The auto spark ran, but the valve never seemed to recognize the spark and turn on the gas to the pilot light. I was able to hold a flame from a lighter over the sensor to get the valve to turn on the main gas, so the brew day wasn't lost.

I disconnected and reattached all of the wires on the valve, and it didn't change anything. It doesn't seem to be a loose connection. Any thoughts on troubleshooting the pilot gas supply?

 
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Old 05-24-2015, 03:34 PM   #14
Majd
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Jun 2012
Santa Clarita, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by korndog View Post
Yep. That's the setup. Congrats on the spark ignition. I am definitely glad I went that route. Just curious about the two ground wires to the burner. I have the ground wire going from the module to the valve and then one wire from the valve to the burner. There are two ground terminals on the valve.

Can we see pictures of the whole rig?
Korndog;
I ran to this thread while I was looking for help to get my Honeywell Y8610U to work. I'm using a Mypin PID that I wired and seem to work fine. the valve I bout to my knowledge is low pressure valve, that is connected to a propane cylinder via an adjustable regulator and I put less than one PSI through to the valve. the valve is working in starting sparks and lighting up the pilot. but the burner is not catching on fire, the valve is not letting propane go through to the burner (just to the pilot!).
the way I connected it is as followe:
1- three wires from servo PV/PVMV/ and MV to the corresponding name / port on valve.
2- from 24VAC transformer through PID black and white( donot know which is common and which is the other) to the servo GRN24 and TH-W, and finally the spark to the spark plug (red silicon cable). I wired nothing to the GRN on the servo, nothing to the ground of the valve and no ground going to the pilot.

my question is: what would the reason be for the valve not allowing propane pass to the burner? could it be the GRD connection?
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Old 05-24-2015, 04:14 PM   #15
ajdelange
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
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Aug 2010
McLean/Ogden, Virginia/Quebec
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If you are getting ignition then clearly the heat demand circuit is working so it is a question as to whether the control module is proving the pilot flame successfully, commanding the main valve to open and if so whether the main valve is responding. If the pilot flame is proven to the controller's satisfaction it will apply 24 V across the MV and MV/PV terminals. Check for that with a voltmeter. If that signal is not present then the module is bad (it either does not sense the flame or does not respond properly when it does) and needs to be replaced. If it launches the main valve signal correctly but the valve does not open it is defective i.e. stuck or coil burned out. The coil resistance is about 300Ω which you can check with an ohm meter between the MV and MV/PV terminals with the plug pulled off the module.

 
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Old 05-11-2016, 05:11 AM   #16
SnowRaven
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Jan 2014
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Best place to get parts for this?

 
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