Chest freezer collar is built, what parts do I need to get for faucets? - Home Brew Forums

Register Now!
Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Chest freezer collar is built, what parts do I need to get for faucets?

Thread Tools
Old 05-26-2008, 11:45 PM   #1
Feb 2008
Posts: 80

Hey all,

Had a productive day building my keezer collar. It fits the unit perfectly and actually looks half decent too (a feat considering I don't work with wood all that often). If I do it right, obligatory photo should show up below. Anyways, I drilled some pilot holes in for the faucets, but have no idea what size the holes should actually be. Also, when I have gone to a few online retailers, I get completely confused as to what parts I need. I tried doing a search on this subject, but came up with nothing. Can anyone help point me in the right direction?


Reason: photo issues

Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2008, 12:14 AM   #2
Professor Frink
Professor Frink's Avatar
Sep 2006
San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,085
Liked 19 Times on 16 Posts

You'll need some faucet shanks, I recommend 4" long, with nipples. Those go through the collar, you'll attach the faucets to the front of the shank and your beer lines to the nipples.
Primary: Cherrywood Smoked Porter
60 Minute IPA
On tap:Amber Ale
Milk Stout


Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2008, 12:18 AM   #3
eriktlupus's Avatar
Jan 2007
Cereal City, USA
Posts: 2,618
Liked 13 Times on 11 Posts

shank, at least 1.5" longer than your collar thickness
tap, take your pick but remember most places sell the handle seperately
tailpiece, this sould be the same dia as your beerline
washer, fits between the tailpiece and the shank
hex-nut or wing-nut, locks the tailpiece/washer assembly in place
primary1 :UTOPIA BABY(still searching for it)
secondary:middling bastard ipa
kegged:simcoe blonde, crystal pale ale, yellow jacket golden ale, lemon shandy blonde

join michigan mashers here

extraction calculator
grains in pounds(G) X 36(average points per gallon of grains) / batch size in gallons(g) = maximum efficiency(ME)
OG / ME = brewhouse efficiency

Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2008, 12:22 AM   #4
Vendor and Brewer
Bobby_M's Avatar
Aug 2006
Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 23,291
Liked 1736 Times on 1101 Posts sells shanks that have the beerline barbs brazed in so you don't need the tail pieces separately. I like them. They also have Perlick forward sealing faucets for $31.
Welcome to I love you.
Corny Keg Dry Hop Canisters $26.50 for limited time
Chugger Pumps, Pump Kits, Camlocks, Sightglasses, Clear USA made Silicone Tubing, RIMS, Electric Install Parts, etc.

Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2008, 02:00 PM   #5
david_42's Avatar
Oct 2005
Oak Grove, Oregon, USA
Posts: 25,595
Liked 153 Times on 144 Posts

The shanks are 7/8", but I find a 1" hole works better in wood.
Remember one unassailable statistic, as explained by the late, great George Carlin: "Just think of how stupid the average person is, and then realize half of them are even stupider!"

"I would like to die on Mars, just not on impact." Elon Musk

Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2008, 05:59 PM   #6

I'm looking at the 4 X 3/16 nipple shanks. I understand I don't need the tail piece, but I imagine I still need the nuts and washers?

Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2008, 07:48 PM   #7
Bob's Avatar
Nov 2007
Christiansted, St Croix, USVI, US Virgin Islands
Posts: 3,927
Liked 142 Times on 105 Posts

If this shank (see below) comes with the flange (the black bit) and nut, no.

All you need is the faucet and a worm-drive clamp (to hold the beer line onto the nipple).

Fort Christian Brewpub
St Croix, US Virgin Islands

Reason: mixed up terminology

Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2008, 08:10 PM   #8
Tonedef131's Avatar
Feb 2008
Fort Wayne
Posts: 1,891
Liked 31 Times on 16 Posts

Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
Restaurant Supplies at Superior Products - The Name You Trust, The Choices You Need. sells shanks that have the beerline barbs brazed in so you don't need the tail pieces separately. I like them. They also have Perlick forward sealing faucets for $31.
Oh wow, I am getting ready to buy some faucets and you might have just saved me a couple hundred dollars...thanks!

Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2008, 05:55 PM   #9
balto charlie
balto charlie's Avatar
Nov 2005
Posts: 798
Liked 9 Times on 7 Posts

Hey I just finished building mine. Used the superprod's stuff. Cheapest price, but still pricey. I went w/ 3" shanks. I was only going through a 1"X3" collar. I like 3" shank because it doesn't hang over the top of the kegerator. Cornies are hard to put into the keezer as it is. With a collar and shanks the job becomes even harder. My keezer fits 4 cornies but it is a really tight fit so not having to worry about banging the nips makes it easier for me. Charlie
Drinking Arrogant Bastard clone, Belgian Dark Strong ale, Oktoberfest
Primary APA
On Deck Kate RIS clone, Russian River APA clone, Dominion Oak Barrel Stout clone, Green Flash IPA clone

Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2009, 08:20 PM   #10
Moose777's Avatar
Apr 2009
Thousand Oaks CA
Posts: 498
Liked 3 Times on 2 Posts

Very informative thread..Got 4 shanks from AHB being delevered today 4 1/4".
I too was wondering about the correct sized hole drill.

So with a 1" hole saw will the shank fit in with very little wiggle room?

Reply With Quote
Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Frigidaire 7.2 Chest Freezer..... Collar Size? HOP-HEAD Bottling/Kegging 17 02-11-2011 04:11 AM
How do you attach your collar to freezer chest? trainfever Bottling/Kegging 34 11-19-2008 06:23 PM
Chest freezer collar attatchment? Sea Equipment/Sanitation 10 03-03-2008 07:06 PM
Chest Freezer Collar SixFoFalcon Kegerators & Keezers 17 01-13-2008 06:30 PM
Chest Freezer Collar Insulation Khirsah17 Bottling/Kegging 4 08-13-2007 08:50 PM

Forum Jump