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Old 05-26-2008, 11:45 PM   #1
Feb 2008
Posts: 80

Hey all,

Had a productive day building my keezer collar. It fits the unit perfectly and actually looks half decent too (a feat considering I don't work with wood all that often). If I do it right, obligatory photo should show up below. Anyways, I drilled some pilot holes in for the faucets, but have no idea what size the holes should actually be. Also, when I have gone to a few online retailers, I get completely confused as to what parts I need. I tried doing a search on this subject, but came up with nothing. Can anyone help point me in the right direction?


Reason: photo issues

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Old 05-27-2008, 12:14 AM   #2
Professor Frink
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Sep 2006
San Diego, CA
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You'll need some faucet shanks, I recommend 4" long, with nipples. Those go through the collar, you'll attach the faucets to the front of the shank and your beer lines to the nipples.
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Old 05-27-2008, 12:18 AM   #3
eriktlupus's Avatar
Jan 2007
Cereal City, USA
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shank, at least 1.5" longer than your collar thickness
tap, take your pick but remember most places sell the handle seperately
tailpiece, this sould be the same dia as your beerline
washer, fits between the tailpiece and the shank
hex-nut or wing-nut, locks the tailpiece/washer assembly in place
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Old 05-27-2008, 12:22 AM   #4
Vendor and Brewer
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Aug 2006
Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 23,339
Liked 1767 Times on 1124 Posts sells shanks that have the beerline barbs brazed in so you don't need the tail pieces separately. I like them. They also have Perlick forward sealing faucets for $31.
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Old 05-27-2008, 02:00 PM   #5
david_42's Avatar
Oct 2005
Oak Grove, Oregon, USA
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The shanks are 7/8", but I find a 1" hole works better in wood.
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Old 10-17-2008, 05:59 PM   #6

I'm looking at the 4 X 3/16 nipple shanks. I understand I don't need the tail piece, but I imagine I still need the nuts and washers?

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Old 10-17-2008, 07:48 PM   #7
Bob's Avatar
Nov 2007
Christiansted, St Croix, USVI, US Virgin Islands
Posts: 3,927
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If this shank (see below) comes with the flange (the black bit) and nut, no.

All you need is the faucet and a worm-drive clamp (to hold the beer line onto the nipple).

Fort Christian Brewpub
St Croix, US Virgin Islands

Reason: mixed up terminology

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Old 10-17-2008, 08:10 PM   #8
Tonedef131's Avatar
Feb 2008
Fort Wayne
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Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
Restaurant Supplies at Superior Products - The Name You Trust, The Choices You Need. sells shanks that have the beerline barbs brazed in so you don't need the tail pieces separately. I like them. They also have Perlick forward sealing faucets for $31.
Oh wow, I am getting ready to buy some faucets and you might have just saved me a couple hundred dollars...thanks!

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Old 10-20-2008, 05:55 PM   #9
balto charlie
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Nov 2005
Posts: 806
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Hey I just finished building mine. Used the superprod's stuff. Cheapest price, but still pricey. I went w/ 3" shanks. I was only going through a 1"X3" collar. I like 3" shank because it doesn't hang over the top of the kegerator. Cornies are hard to put into the keezer as it is. With a collar and shanks the job becomes even harder. My keezer fits 4 cornies but it is a really tight fit so not having to worry about banging the nips makes it easier for me. Charlie
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Old 08-17-2009, 08:20 PM   #10
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Apr 2009
Thousand Oaks CA
Posts: 498
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Very informative thread..Got 4 shanks from AHB being delevered today 4 1/4".
I too was wondering about the correct sized hole drill.

So with a 1" hole saw will the shank fit in with very little wiggle room?

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