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Old 02-28-2006, 09:40 PM   #11
homebrewer_99
 
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Just check it in a week. If it has enough carbonation for you then refridgerate the bottles to retard the carbbing process.
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Old 03-02-2006, 02:58 AM   #12
davidkrau
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Hi,

The standard procedure as far as I know is to put 5 ounces corn sugar in a sauce pan, add 1 cup of water and boil for a few minutes, cool and toss it in the bucket with the fermented brew just prior to bottling. This has always worked great for me. You should be able to buy corn sugar from whereever you buy your extracts and yeast. The only time I ever had exploeing bottles was when I tried to make root beer. It sounded like world war 3 in the middle of the night and the mess was unbelieveable.

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Old 03-02-2006, 09:39 AM   #13
bigears
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Well, the temperature outside is pretty low at the moment so the bottles are sitting at around 8-12 C (46 - 53 F) in the house at the moment. This should help to slow down the carbonation process a little. I've wrapped both crates in a towel to keep the spotential shrapnel close to home

I'm going to hope for the best for now. One of the bottles is a swing-top Grolsch style cap so I might test that at the weekend. If it's releasing a lot of CO2 maybe I can release a little from the other bottles and recap. David - I'm curious to know if you remember how much sugar you primed with when you had your explosions - can you remember? Glucose/Dextrose and corn sugar are one and the same as far as I know.

 
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Old 03-03-2006, 01:20 PM   #14
Shambolic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigears
BUT here's my problem - 1 cup of table sugar will not weigh the same as 1 cup of glucose as glucose is finer and will weigh more in the same quantity.
The same volume of (powdery) glucose will weigh less than table sugar. Quite a bit less...
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Old 03-07-2006, 07:41 PM   #15
mezman
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So when one makes a bottle bomb, does the bottle actually explode? Or does it just blow the cap off? I would think the cap seal would be a lot weaker then the glass of the bottle.
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Old 03-07-2006, 09:33 PM   #16
Genghis77
 
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My experiences are with the caps holding and glass breaking most frequently about 1 to 2 inches from the top. But can also break at the neck flare.

 
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:03 PM   #17
homebrewer_99
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mezman
So when one makes a bottle bomb, does the bottle actually explode? Or does it just blow the cap off? I would think the cap seal would be a lot weaker then the glass of the bottle.
Yes, the bottle does explode! Of course, it's always at the weakest pressure point.

The only exploding bottles I've experienced came from homemade root beer. Most of the time the bottoms were blown off.
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:07 PM   #18
homebrewer_99
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigears
the bottles are sitting at around 8-12 C (46 - 53 F) in the house at the moment. This should help to slow down the carbonation process a little. I've wrapped both crates in a towel to keep the spotential shrapnel close to home
That's too low a temp. Put your bottles at a temp closer to 70F. You'll need the (relative) heat to keep the yeast active and the sugar to revert to carbonation. Test a bottle in a week or so for carbonation. If it is still too low wait another week. Chances are it'll be fine though. Then move the bottles to a cooler area to retard the process.

BTW, I usually prime my HWs with 1.25 C corn sugar and have never had a bottle bomb with beer.

How does that equate to your priming?
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Old 03-08-2006, 11:27 AM   #19
bigears
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I tried one last night and it didn't gush - it's actually forming a nice head - but I did have the temperature quite low to retard the carbonation a little - started off around 10c and has been at up to 16c (60F) for the second half of the week. I'll look at moving it somehwere warmer now that an explosion doesn't look imminent. I'm not too sure what 1.25 cups equates to but I have a feeling it's not too far off what I primed with.

 
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Old 03-08-2006, 03:04 PM   #20
m_f
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I follow recipes but never use the recomendations on priming.
Instead I use the idea of this link: Primer on priming.

I always go by weight rather than volume. the concepts are useful to anything you want to use to prime:
table sugar, DME, corn sugar, syrups. You only need sugar concentration and composition of the primer (that usually is available from the label on the product).

 
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