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Old 05-06-2008, 02:56 PM   #11
Gabe
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A week at 20 psi? What temp is your keg at? Just wondering!

 
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Old 05-06-2008, 03:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iordz View Post
I prefer to dry hop in the primary...
Iordz... can you hit me up on a lil more info to this statement?

I currently have an IPA that is ready to be racked to secondary this weekend. What I was planning on doing was putting my 1oz of pellets in the secondary then rack on top of that.

If I dry hop in my primary when I get home from work, that will leave 4.5 days for the pellets to work before I rack.

Will that be long enough, leaving me with an even cleaner beer than if I dry hop in the secondary?

Very curious as this is my first ever dry hop AND rack to secondary for clarity.

 
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Old 05-07-2008, 03:58 AM   #13
enohcs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabe View Post
A week at 20 psi? What temp is your keg at? Just wondering!
My keg is sitting around 55F in my garage. I'll end up with 2.5 volumes of CO2. I'll serve at a much lower pressure. I don't like the shaking or rolling techniques others employ.

 
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Old 05-07-2008, 04:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BierMuncher View Post
For dry hopping in the keg:
One small zip tie.
One 1-gallon paint strainer bag from Lowe's (et al)
Some marbles or something else to weight the bag down.

Works like a charm with pellet or whole hops.
Oh yeah! I use this method, and it works like a charm! Much more care-free then adding pellets to the secondary!
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Old 05-07-2008, 10:07 AM   #15

I use a sure screen at the bottom of the dip tube. Works great!
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Old 05-07-2008, 12:32 PM   #16
s3n8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJCalico View Post
Iordz... can you hit me up on a lil more info to this statement?

I currently have an IPA that is ready to be racked to secondary this weekend. What I was planning on doing was putting my 1oz of pellets in the secondary then rack on top of that.

If I dry hop in my primary when I get home from work, that will leave 4.5 days for the pellets to work before I rack.

Will that be long enough, leaving me with an even cleaner beer than if I dry hop in the secondary?

Very curious as this is my first ever dry hop AND rack to secondary for clarity.
I too am curious as to what others experience with dry hopping in the primary has been like. I have a rye IPA dry hopping in my secondary, and would like to let that go another week. My 2HA clone is ready to rack, but if I could, I would like to just toss in the hops if it works just as well.

Do dry hopped beers clear? I thought they would remain a bit cloudy.

 
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:20 PM   #17
Danek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJCalico View Post
Iordz... can you hit me up on a lil more info to this statement?

I currently have an IPA that is ready to be racked to secondary this weekend. What I was planning on doing was putting my 1oz of pellets in the secondary then rack on top of that.

If I dry hop in my primary when I get home from work, that will leave 4.5 days for the pellets to work before I rack.

Will that be long enough, leaving me with an even cleaner beer than if I dry hop in the secondary?

Very curious as this is my first ever dry hop AND rack to secondary for clarity.
I've dry-hopped in the primary and it's worked well. Jamil talks about it on (I think) the American IPA episode of his podcast, and as long as the primary fermentation is finished, you should be fine. I gather the risk if you dry-hop too soon is that the CO2 produced during fermentation will scrub away the volatile aroma compounds.

I think DHing in primary means the beer will be clearer by the time it's racked from secondary, as you leave more crud in the primary so there's less stuff to settle out. But I've also DHed in secondary and the beer tasted great too, so it's the sort of decision that won't really be the difference between great beer and horse-piss.

The one thing I would say is that I'd dry-hop for a week, rather than 4.5 days - given how expensive hops are, I think you'd get a little more out of them by leaving them for seven days.
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:47 PM   #18
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I had always been disappointed with my attempts at dry hopping. I did it a couple of times in the keg and the results were almost undrinkable. Very harsh and grassy notes, not pleasant and floral like some of the commercial examples (Bell's Two Hearted Ale is probably the best example I can think of). I swore off dry hopping and relied on late boil additions instead, and while this process made fine beer, it wasn't quite what I wanted.

Then, in 2006, I attended the National Homebrew Conference in Orlando. I went to a seminar given by Matt Brynildson who is the brewmaster over at Firestone brewery. He talked about getting hop character in beer in a variety of ways and talked about dry hopping and described the process that he uses and the reasons why it works for him. The process is as follows:

Once the beer starts fermenting in the primary, let it reach high krausen and then start to crash (about 1 day or so after high krausen). Fermentation is still going on, but at a lower activity level. Add your dry hops to the primary at this point and let the beer continue to ferment with the dry hops for 3 days total. After 3 days, fermentation should be complete and the beer should be racked to a secondary. If you use pellet hops (and I would recommend that you do), it may be necessary to rack one additional time to help remove as much hop debris as possible. Keg or bottle as usual.

I went home and tried this technique and was blown away at the difference. What was once grassy and harsh, is now floral and almost perfumey with wonderful hop character. I am a dedicated dry hopper now.

Some things that I think are important:
  1. Dry hopping using this method with whole hops is problematic. I use carboys, and trying to stuff whole hops into the neck of a carboy is not something I think is practical. Use pellet hops and your life will be much easier.
  2. Do not use a hop bag. Just dump the pellets in, this will maximize the exposure of the hops to the wort and get the biggest impact. I usually get a clean piece of printer paper, weigh out the hops, place the hops on the paper, then bend the paper to form a trough so that the hops can be dumped right into the neck of the carboy. No funnel necessary.
  3. As the beer ferments with the hops in it, the hops want to float to the top. A couple of times a day, I'll go in and swirl the carboy a few times to help submerge the hops.
  4. Don't exceed 3 days. This is plenty of time to get what the hops have to offer. More than this and you risk getting those harsh grassy notes.
  5. Pick a hop variety that you like. Dry hopping gives you a concentrated does of whatever your hops smell and taste like. I am absolutely nuts over Centennial right now. That is what is in the Bell's Two Hearted.
  6. I think 2 - 3 oz of dry hops for a 5 - 6 gallon batch is appropriate and gives a great hop character.
  7. Increase your batch size by 1/2 gallon or so due to the added wort lost in dry hop absorption and the possibility of an extra racking.
Sorry this is long. Hope it helps.

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Old 05-07-2008, 03:24 PM   #19
DJCalico
 
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great input TNL.. thanks!

 
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Old 05-07-2008, 05:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enohcs View Post
Will the hop oil give that grassy/spicy aroma I'm looking for?
YES!! I poured two of my IPA's in snifter glasses and my friend and I did a taste test. We tried it first right out of the keg, then we put in two or three little drops of the hop oil in and within 15-20 seconds it was like a hop bomb went off! I am a believer.

Eastside........

 
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