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Old 04-22-2009, 02:34 AM   #11
Oct 2008
Posts: 123
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

I dont think that I have made a clear beer yet as I cant keep from drinking it.. I started brewing 10 gallon batches in hops to build up a pipe line but I just started drinking more! Go figure!

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Old 04-22-2009, 06:20 AM   #12
Feb 2009
Modesto, CA
Posts: 83

What I do to kill my haze is Irish Moss in the boil. Then I take my kettle and set it in the sink packed with ice to quick cool to around 80. Then I add to fermenter and top with cool water and usually pitch yeast when temps are near 65-70 range. When I transfer to secondary I add a little gelatin to help. Good news is it doesn't affect taste.

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Old 04-22-2009, 01:47 PM   #13
Apr 2009
Croydon, Pennsylvania
Posts: 292
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And if people complain about the chill haze, just tell them they could have a Smirnoff Ice or a Wine Cooler instead...
“You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer.” -Frank Zappa

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Old 06-01-2009, 07:36 PM   #14
Oct 2008
Allen, Texas, USA
Posts: 253
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Originally Posted by sundaybrewingco View Post
And if people complain about the chill haze, just tell them they could have a Smirnoff Ice or a Wine Cooler instead...
Those are pretty hazy drinks...
Happy Brewing

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Old 06-01-2009, 10:57 PM   #15
Mar 2009
Austin, TX
Posts: 167
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I tried something new that I assure you will bring your wort down to pitching temps in minutes. The day before you brew you take two gal of filtered water and put .5 gal each into 4 one gal plastic bags, freeze them solid. one brew day cut open the bag and dump one
bag at a time into the hot wort. With 3 bags it should be plenty cool. Mine was cooled to 67F within 3 minutes and almost perfectly topped of at 5 gal.

I bet it works for you too.
Primary Fermenter: English Mild

Primary Fermenter: English ESB

Secondary: EMPTY :(

Secondary: Empty :(

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Old 06-01-2009, 11:47 PM   #16
DeafSmith's Avatar
Jan 2009
Richardson, TX
Posts: 1,448
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My experience has been that my beer gets chill haze immediately upon being cooled. It begins to clear up a little after a week in the fridge, it's pretty clear after two weeks, and crystal clear after three weeks.

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Old 06-10-2009, 11:17 PM   #17
May 2009
Posts: 9
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Originally Posted by homebrewer_99 View Post
Ceramic doesn't cure haze, but if you don't see it it won't affect your taste perception...
thats what charlie paps says in his book

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Old 06-11-2009, 02:22 AM   #18
Nov 2007
Posts: 6

Here's the easiest way to get rid of chill haze,but you'll need a fridge to do it.Cool the beer in the secondary to below your regular serving,if you serve it at 40 deg.,chill it to 36 deg. Wait a couple of days for the chill haze to form.Pour in your finings.I use gelatin,it works everytime.Wait for the chill haze to drop out and then bottle,or keg,whichever you use.When you serve it at your regular serving temp...Voila,no chill haze.

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Old 08-24-2009, 11:14 PM   #19
Feb 2009
Roswell, GA
Posts: 215

What is the general consensus about freezing spring water? Seems like a good idea to me, and seems like it would work quickly. Also, you'd be using an "internal" ice bath, so it seems much more efficient. Any downsides, though? Like, the parts that are affected first (i.e., the right-at-boiling-temperature wort), would they be cooled TOO quickly? Is that possible? If this WOULD work, it would really, REALLY simplify the wort cooling process. So, what drawbacks?

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Old 08-27-2009, 01:48 AM   #20
Oct 2008
West Michigan
Posts: 503
Liked 10 Times on 9 Posts

Frozen, purified water (or pre-boiled) works fine... but you'll need a new plan when you go to full boils... as most do.

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