show me your pully setup

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Here is mine. That is a heavy duty ratchet pulley from @Wilserbrewer with another swivel pulley hung off of it. Makes for a really easy pull. The awesome hoist frame itself was built by NorCalBrewingSolutions @Jaybird

IMG_20161225_121553358.jpg
 
moving to 10 gallon batches... and need a pully setup.
Hi. Here's the setup I use. It's a ratcheting pulley from Amazon plus a single pulley block from a big box home supply store hanging from my garage door opener rail. The ratcheting pulley has a rated capacity of 75 pounds, and the additional pulley block really reduces the amount of force needed to hoist my BIAB basket full of wet grain. TBH, I only do 5 gal batches, so my grain bill was usually only ~ 10 - 12 pounds dry, but this rig could easily handle twice that much. If you needed longer cord, you could substitute 550 (paracord) for the stock cord. Ed
:mug:

Pulley.jpg


Basket-11.jpg
 
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Here is mine. That is a heavy duty ratchet pulley from @Wilserbrewer with another swivel pulley hung off of it. Makes for a really easy pull. The awesome hoist frame itself was built by NorCalBrewingSolutions @Jaybird


How much did that run you including shipping?
 
I have moved my brew location to the back of the garage, but this is my setup still today. This gets tied off at a rope cleat, which is very easy to use.

MS



2/16/2013 by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr


I like the multiple block and tackle type pulleys, I have used them for years hoisting boats in my garage. The major downside imo is that the live end must be secured to a cleat, and a mishap sends the grain bag splashing back into the kettle. I know with proper use and care this is avoidable, but for this reason I prefer a single ratchet pulley attached at the bag offering 2-1 mechanical advantage.

IMO the ratcheting security outweighs the mechanical advantage. Lifting isn't the issue as much the holding to allow the bag to drain.

I'm thinking of offering an option of a single pulley up top to the ratchet pulley as some have done in this thread.

Stay tuned :)
 
I have a large eye bolt mounted into a stud in the back of my garage ceiling so I can have the garage door open all the way. I mash back there under the eye bolt, then using a ratcheting pulley to lift the bag. Once the bag starts to drip very little, I place a large bowl under it and move the burner and kettle outside or to the opening of the garage. Now that I've upgraded to a much larger kettle and may start doing 10 gallon batches, I will lift the kettle onto one of my kids scooter boards (image below) and use that to move it for the boil.

Luckily these boards can hold me (about 200lbs) so it shouldn't be an issue moving my kettle 10-15 feet quickly. I'll just have to place something in between the kettle and the scooter board to keep it from getting burned or melted some.

317%2BuzS7RSL._SX425_.jpg
 
I like the multiple block and tackle type pulleys, I have used them for years hoisting boats in my garage. The major downside imo is that the live end must be secured to a cleat, and a mishap sends the grain bag splashing back into the kettle. I know with proper use and care this is avoidable, but for this reason I prefer a single ratchet pulley attached at the bag offering 2-1 mechanical advantage.

IMO the ratcheting security outweighs the mechanical advantage. Lifting isn't the issue as much the holding to allow the bag to drain.

I'm thinking of offering an option of a single pulley up top to the ratchet pulley as some have done in this thread.

Stay tuned :)

My bag and pulley will show up today.

Let me see if I have a mental image of what you described--what I'd intended to do is attach the pulley, as per normal, to a point on the ceiling. Then I would run the bitter end of the line, the one you pull on to raise the bag, up and over another pulley also attached to the ceiling. This would give me the mechanical advantage of the second pulley, but still leave the ratchet mechanism low where I can get at it. The rope would need to be....oh, probably 20 feet long or more.

Is that what you mean?
 
I'm thinking of offering an option of a single pulley up top to the ratchet pulley as some have done in this thread.

Stay tuned :)

I like the security the ratchet lock on your pulley (that I currently use) offers in that there is little or no potential that the "live" end can get away from me and have the grain bag splash hot wort all over the place. And as we all know, Mike, pulling a 10G batch bag with 25# of soaked grain can be a handful. Obviously the current single pulley is safe but the mechanical advantage is low. If I am thinking correctly, can you keep the same ratchet safety feature but add another pulley to increase the mechanical advantage? If you design a system like this, I'll pre-order as soon as you say yes.
 
Here is the one I currently have. I got it from www.brewinabag.com

It works great but it's too heavy for my 5 gal batches. It is strung with 3/8" rope and has a capacity of 250 lbs. I will be receiving my wilserbrewerbag today and his 1/4" ratchet pulley and am going to add an additional pulley to make it similar to this one.

Pulley.JPG
 
This is what I'm thinking of:

View attachment 389864


Yes, that is the idea exactly. However, it can be done more simply with a single attachment point at the ceiling. The rope is tied to the ceiling hook with approx a 6" tail where the secondary pulley is attached.

We all must realize that the second pulley will not provide any mechanical advantage, but just reverses the direction. To that end it may make it more convenient than just attaching the pulley at the bag and lifting the rope and bag simultaneously.

I have found for very heavy grain bills, it is best to use a two handed approach, one hand on the hoist rope, and the other hand on the bag.

video link shows the most simple approach attaching the ratchet pulley at the load...an additional pulley attached up top will only reverse the direction and will not increase mechanical advantage.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4XJZ6Jp5_A[/ame]
 
Thanks for this thread....My first BIAB I puta folding ladder over the kettle and hooked the rachet to that. My strainer/bag combo just barely cleared the rim of the pot.

Now I think I'll hook up to the garage door track like alot of you are doing.
 
Thanks for this thread....My first BIAB I puta folding ladder over the kettle and hooked the rachet to that..


Yea, I've always thought the stepladder over the kettle looked like a cluster waiting to happen, sticking your head over the kettle and under the ladder.

Maybe if you have no other alternative idk...
 
Yes, that is the idea exactly. However, it can be done more simply with a single attachment point at the ceiling. The rope is tied to the ceiling hook with approx a 6" tail where the secondary pulley is attached.

We all must realize that the second pulley will not provide any mechanical advantage, but just reverses the direction. To that end it may make it more convenient than just attaching the pulley at the bag and lifting the rope and bag simultaneously.
Hi. I don't think that's exactly correct. If you look at the diagram below, the second pulley reduces the force required to lift the object by 1/2. Ed
:mug:

2017-02-21 11_07_16-Google Image Result for https___upload.wikimedia.org_wikipedia_commons_e_e9_.jpg
 
I just built a new stand for BIAB.

This was the model I made before starting. (easier to see all the pieces)
brew%20stand%201.png



This is the finished stand.
20170212_120036.jpg


Picture is a little deceiving, the lift point is centered over the middle of the stand. The whole arm raises another 18 inches and gets pinned at that height when I need to lift the bag. It then is lowered for storage.
 
Hi. I don't think that's exactly correct. If you look at the diagram below, the second pulley reduces the force required to lift the object by 1/2. Ed
:mug:

I agree with you Ed, but what I'm trying to explain is that the upper pulley is the optional pulley that merely redirects the force. A single pulley utilized in the lower position will still give 2-1 advantage using only one pulley. The upper pulley merely redirects the rope. If you watch the video, you can see the load only moves half the distance the rope is pulled for a 2-1 advantage.

What actually matters is how many parts of line are attached to the moving pulley at the load, and not the stationary pulley at the cieling, as the last piece of line to go over the stationary pulley is merely redirecting the line. A single pulley attached to the load will give 2-1 advantage, and a double pulley at the load will give a 4-1 advantage.
 
Also, adding a pulley does in fact reduce the force required to lift. If you add a third it reduces it more. A 4th even more. You'll need more string the more pulleys you add to lift the bag the final amount. It's like using a pry-bar/lever to lift something heavy. You put in less force, but move a longer distance to lift the heavy object a shorter distance.
 
I agree with you Ed, but what I'm trying to explain is that the upper pulley is the optional pulley that merely redirects the force. A single pulley utilized in the lower position will still give 2-1 advantage using only one pulley. The upper pulley merely redirects the rope. If you watch the video, you can see the load only moves half the distance the rope is pulled for a 2-1 advantage.

Now that I see what you're arguing, you are technically correct. It matters how the fixed end and the first pulley are oriented. With the fixed end on the top, and the pulley at the bottom, you are right, pulling up already gives a 2-1. The second at the top doesn't increase anything unless you significantly change the routing and fixed end position.
 
I agree with you Ed, but what I'm trying to explain is that the upper pulley is the optional pulley that merely redirects the force. A single pulley utilized in the lower position will still give 2-1 advantage using only one pulley. The upper pulley merely redirects the rope. If you watch the video, you can see the load only moves half the distance the rope is pulled for a 2-1 advantage.

What actually matters is how many parts of line are attached to the moving pulley at the load, and not the stationary pulley at the ceiling, as the last piece of line to go over the stationary pulley is merely redirecting the line. A single pulley attached to the load will give 2-1 advantage, and a double pulley at the load will give a 4-1 advantage.

Now that I see what you're arguing, you are technically correct. It matters how the fixed end and the first pulley are oriented. With the fixed end on the top, and the pulley at the bottom, you are right, pulling up already gives a 2-1. The second at the top doesn't increase anything unless you significantly change the routing and fixed end position.
Gentlemen, I love this! Isn't great to be able to have a sane, rational conversation without fear of rebuke or mockery?!? What's really interesting is the change in the mechanics and dynamics by having the pull at the load vs pull at the anchor, and the impact of the total force applied to the anchor based on where the pull force is applied. By having two pulleys and pulling up at the lower pulley (pull at load,) you are actually creating a 3:1 leverage. The image shown by @jrstephens65 above would give you 2:1, by simply changing the pull point to the lower pulley and fixing the terminal point to the load, you create a 3:1 using the same two pulleys. As @cegan09 points out, you are replacing force required by adding distance of pull. Thanks for the wonderful discussion! Ed
:mug:
 
I use a ratcheting pulley and bag set-up that I bought from The Brew Bag. The pulley mount is a simple folding/height adjustable ladder. Screw lifting this thing up by hand. Pulley is a very worthwhile investment if you've got something to hang it from.

IMAG1005.jpg
 
I agree with you Ed, but what I'm trying to explain is that the upper pulley is the optional pulley that merely redirects the force. A single pulley utilized in the lower position will still give 2-1 advantage using only one pulley. The upper pulley merely redirects the rope. If you watch the video, you can see the load only moves half the distance the rope is pulled for a 2-1 advantage.

What actually matters is how many parts of line are attached to the moving pulley at the load, and not the stationary pulley at the cieling, as the last piece of line to go over the stationary pulley is merely redirecting the line. A single pulley attached to the load will give 2-1 advantage, and a double pulley at the load will give a 4-1 advantage.

Now that I see what you're arguing, you are technically correct. It matters how the fixed end and the first pulley are oriented. With the fixed end on the top, and the pulley at the bottom, you are right, pulling up already gives a 2-1. The second at the top doesn't increase anything unless you significantly change the routing and fixed end position.

Gentlemen, I love this! Isn't great to be able to have a sane, rational conversation without fear of rebuke or mockery?!? What's really interesting is the change in the mechanics and dynamics by having the pull at the load vs pull at the anchor, and the impact of the total force applied to the anchor based on where the pull force is applied. By having two pulleys and pulling up at the lower pulley (pull at load,) you are actually creating a 3:1 leverage. The image shown by @jrstephens65 above would give you 2:1, by simply changing the pull point to the lower pulley and fixing the terminal point to the load, you create a 3:1 using the same two pulleys. As @cegan09 points out, you are replacing force required by adding distance of pull. Thanks for the wonderful discussion! Ed
:mug:
Really cool electric hoists not withstanding, and based on the points from @wilserbrewer and @cegan09 I think I'll use a pull at the load with two pulleys giving me a 3:1 advantage like the diagram below. Thanks again. Ed
:mug:

2017-02-21 12_46_21-Pulley forces.docx - Word.jpg
 
The simple inexpensive 1/4" ratchet pulley attached at the bag gives 2-1 advantage and is a great simple solution. To go beyond 2-1 advantage isn't of great appeal to me for the added complexity or $.

I've done 35 lb grain bills w/ the 1/4" ratchet pulley and that is about the max. The value of the ratchet pulley IMO is not to make the lifting easier, but rather allowing you to pause and let the bag drain as it is exiting the kettle. Getting a 35 lb grain bag out of the kettle is a slow process for me, a few clicks at a time.

I have been toying with the idea of getting one of these, but way overkill I think....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/600-lbs-Han...641154?hash=item5b26d6e3c2:g:n1oAAOSwGIRXcMfj
 
The simple inexpensive 1/4" ratchet pulley attached at the bag gives 2-1 advantage and is a great simple solution. To go beyond 2-1 advantage isn't of great appeal to me for the added complexity or $.

I've done 35 lb grain bills w/ the 1/4" ratchet pulley and that is about the max. The value of the ratchet pulley IMO is not to make the lifting easier, but rather allowing you to pause and let the bag drain as it is exiting the kettle. Getting a 35 lb grain bag out of the kettle is a slow process for me, a few clicks at a time.

I have been toying with the idea of getting one of these, but way overkill I think....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/600-lbs-Han...641154?hash=item5b26d6e3c2:g:n1oAAOSwGIRXcMfj

I found an old cobweb & mud dauber nest covered crank like that at a yard sale that I picked up for a couple of bucks. It is overkill but I might find a use for it down the road doing larger batches. Right now the 1/4" for the 5 gallon brews and the 3/8" for the 10 gallon brews works great on the Frankenrig! If I get around to building something a little more purpose built I could see incorporating the big crank.
 
How do you get your bag down? Do you move your kettle out of the way or man-handle it away? I'm looking to improve what I got. For 27 pound dry weight, it's a bear to get it away from my system by myself.
 
How do you get your bag down? Do you move your kettle out of the way or man-handle it away? I'm looking to improve what I got. For 27 pound dry weight, it's a bear to get it away from my system by myself.

The pulley has a release on it. Here's where I bought mine:

http://biabbags.webs.com/

I bought the heavy-duty one.
 
Do you move your kettle out of the way or man-handle it away? I'm looking to improve what I got. For 27 pound dry weight, it's a bear to get it away from my system by myself.


I think perhaps I understand the question since I've been there myself.

I've seen an idea here where the pulley is hooked over a suspended pipe, then you can slide the pulley along and over horizontally and lower.

I'm still manually unhooking and hoping to hit the waiting tote at floor level lol. But I still think I'm younger and stronger than I am lol. I see the need you describe.
 
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