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Old 10-31-2012, 05:22 AM   #221
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As an update. I just installed my 3/16 bevflex lines.Similiar results and comments to others here..

I estimate the resistance to be about 1 psi per foot. So I needed double the length of my previous micromatic 3/16 pvc lines.
I am now serving two lines at 7-8psi with 8 foot and two lines at 14psi with 14 foot. no foaming issues. very nice pour.

As others have said in this and the other thread on this line, its a bitch to install. I tried hot water which was useless. I tried a heat blower from a soldering iron, kind of worked but burned my fingers badly and also melted the tubing. Gave up for a while and then realised I could kind of ream the tubing. I got three drill bits in increasing size and put them in a vice facing vertical with the blunt side upwards. then I heated the bit with my heat blower/soldering iron for a few secs. then repeatedly push down on it with the tubing and pull out until i got an inch or so down. did this with 3 bits of increasing size and then it was pretty easy to push over the barbs.

The lines are more rigid than my old pvc ones and also push against the fridge door a bit so it is harder to close the door and easier to leave it ajar without realising.

Overall I'm satisfied, although I would recommend taking care and time with the installation.


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Old 10-31-2012, 05:40 AM   #222
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If you're just boring out the tubing, aren't you defeating the purpose of the bevflex line?


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Old 10-31-2012, 08:10 AM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaPyro
If you're just boring out the tubing, aren't you defeating the purpose of the bevflex line?
It doesn't appear that he's actually drilling the tubing out, just getting it on increasing diameters until he's able to get it on the barb.
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:41 PM   #224
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Yes I'm just boring out the first inch of each side of the tube to get it on the barbs. You can use whatever method you can think up but I used hot drill bits - the blunt end not the sharp end
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:11 PM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigevo
Yes I'm just boring out the first inch of each side of the tube to get it on the barbs. You can use whatever method you can think up but I used hot drill bits - the blunt end not the sharp end
Not actually boring that would mean the removal of material he is stretching the tube
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:31 PM   #226
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We've installed Accuflex BevSeal several times, trying different methods. In our opinion, the easiest way is to use a heat gun. We just use a cheap one (like $12) from Harbor Freight. We'll try to get a video posted on our website under this product to show you how we do it. But it really is not difficult at all - on 1/4" or 3/16" barbs, or on picnic taps, once you get the hang of it.

The key is to be patient, heat slowly, alternating the direction of the heat gun - so you are pointing it both directly inside the tube, and then directly at the side wall of the tube, all the way around. This warms both the inner and outer layers. We then take a small needle nose, and gently apply pressure to expand the diameter of the tubing end. Then we repeat this, usually no more than 3 times total. Then we push the barb in. You shouldn't need much force to get the barb in in there. If done correctly, you actually won't even need clamps. I think the tubing contracts as it cools and tightens up around the barb. (The ones we have on our keezer don't use clamps. But just to be safe, it certainly doesn't hurt to put a clamp on it.)

What you don't want to do is to overheat it. If you do, it actually becomes too flimsy and when you push in the barb, it just folds over, crumbles up. Or, if you over heat, you'll find that stretching out the tubing with the pliers may cause it to rip the tubing end. I think it is important to keep the inner layer intact, and if you overheat, you'll disintegrate the inner layer of the tube.

The first time we did it, we overheated the tube, and learned what happens. But if that happens, chalk it up to learning, and just snip off the inch of tube that was mangled and try again. By the second attempt, we nailed it.

If you don't want to invest in a heat gun, then boiling water is the next best method...but not quite as easy as the heat gun. I feel that I have more control over the temperature using a heat gun.

Hope that helps...
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:51 PM   #227
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The problem I have with flaring with a needle nose pliers is that it creates a tapered flare. I used to work for a company that would flare PFA and PVDF. They used a tool that would create a square flare. Wonder if it would work for the BevSeal.

http://www.harringtonplastics.com/Semiconductor.cfm
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:42 AM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdmanBrewingCo View Post
We've installed Accuflex BevSeal several times, trying different methods. In our opinion, the easiest way is to use a heat gun. We just use a cheap one (like $12) from Harbor Freight. We'll try to get a video posted on our website under this product to show you how we do it. But it really is not difficult at all - on 1/4" or 3/16" barbs, or on picnic taps, once you get the hang of it.

The key is to be patient, heat slowly, alternating the direction of the heat gun - so you are pointing it both directly inside the tube, and then directly at the side wall of the tube, all the way around. This warms both the inner and outer layers. We then take a small needle nose, and gently apply pressure to expand the diameter of the tubing end. Then we repeat this, usually no more than 3 times total. Then we push the barb in. You shouldn't need much force to get the barb in in there. If done correctly, you actually won't even need clamps. I think the tubing contracts as it cools and tightens up around the barb. (The ones we have on our keezer don't use clamps. But just to be safe, it certainly doesn't hurt to put a clamp on it.)

What you don't want to do is to overheat it. If you do, it actually becomes too flimsy and when you push in the barb, it just folds over, crumbles up. Or, if you over heat, you'll find that stretching out the tubing with the pliers may cause it to rip the tubing end. I think it is important to keep the inner layer intact, and if you overheat, you'll disintegrate the inner layer of the tube.

The first time we did it, we overheated the tube, and learned what happens. But if that happens, chalk it up to learning, and just snip off the inch of tube that was mangled and try again. By the second attempt, we nailed it.

If you don't want to invest in a heat gun, then boiling water is the next best method...but not quite as easy as the heat gun. I feel that I have more control over the temperature using a heat gun.

Hope that helps...
Good suggestions. For me the thing that made it really easy to install was heating the barb up a little more than the tubing. Putting the barb onto a spare QD or shank to make it easier to hold on to and maneuver also helps a lot.
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:37 PM   #229
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I have always used a tapered punch or a center punch tool to stretch the hose end. I'll use a heat gun or lighter to heat up the end of the hose with out melting it and then stretch the hose to fit over the barb. Getting the barb wet but not cooling the hose is important. It doesn't get any easier that that. Good luck...

Cheers!
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:58 PM   #230
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It seems as if I have found the magic thread. I've been looking at tubing, barbs, and everything else all day, and I have officially confused myself more than I was when I started. I come to those more experienced than me to seek guidance.

I have a True TDD-2. I have two towers, four Perlick taps. I am aiming to replace all my hoses and clean things up a bit. I also plan to add a 5th coupler for a Blichmann Beer Gun. (I know, I don't need it, but I already have it.)

Oh, and I have this little gem.



My intent is to run tubing from my towers to the top panel.

I will run beverage from the top panel to the couplers.

I will run gas from the bottom of the panel to the couplers.

My CO2 tank will connect to the right inlet on the gas panel.

Instead of plugging the left end, I will run a split valve that will enable me to send one CO2 line to the coupler, and one to the beer gun. Of course, these valves will be turned off when not in use. I will simply use the regulator off the CO2 bottle to control PSI for beer gun use.

Now, all that being said, I really want to clean up the mess of lines in my kegerator. In the current configuration, I've always got a CO2 line or a beverage line in the way. I intend to run the lines to the faucets neatly against the walls of the kegerator, with plumbing mounts keeping them in place. This should allow for all the free floating lines to be coming from the left, meaning I can now easily move things out of the way when I clean the inside of the kegerator, instead of getting smacking in the head and tangled in hoses.

I'm looking at the 3/16" Accuflex Bev-Seal line from Birdman. Am I correct that this is truly 3/16" inner diameter?
http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/accufl...free-shipping/

Is there any flawed logic in my setup? I'm thinking 5ft of tubing for each beverage run, meaning 10ft total length per keg? Is this grossly off on the too long or too short side?

Will normal 3/16" barbs work with this? I see no reason why they shouldn't.

How stiff is this stuff in reality. Will it make curves and bends? Will it stay put when moved out of the way?

Any help would be appreciated.


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