Recirculating through MLT Lid

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KarmaCitra

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I was just thinking, would it be possible to route silicond hose through the plastic lid of an igloo MLT in order to recirculate via pump after mash is completed via a hole that would otherwise be plugged during the mash? Or is the temperature loss by opening the lid and recirculating that way negligible? I don't want to go the route of a HERMs system yet, so I was just thinking if this was possible or if anyone has success doing this.
 
Yes, that's how mine is. I keep the hose in the hole during the mash so heat loss is negligible, and recirculate for the last 10 mins.
 
I have a compression fitting through the lid of mine with a nipple on the inside (attached to a silicone hose) and a copper arm with a plastic sight-glass thing on the outside. Been using it for 15 years with only changing out the plastic. You can put the hose right through the lid, but you would probably want to find a rubber gasket at a home-store to keep it from slipping out.
 
I have a compression fitting through the lid of mine with a nipple on the inside (attached to a silicone hose) and a copper arm with a plastic sight-glass thing on the outside. Been using it for 15 years with only changing out the plastic. You can put the hose right through the lid, but you would probably want to find a rubber gasket at a home-store to keep it from slipping out.

Do you happen to have a pic? Just curious how I could potentially go about this. I fear that with my current process of taking the lid off for both recirculation AND sparge that I'm losing temp. I would use this new setup for both and keep the lid closed for the recirc and sparge.
 
Here is an idea that has work for me for the last few years for my cooler MLT, I have a fitting that goes through the lid, then a section of lock line with a lock line sparge ring that is mounted to the bottom of the lid and a elbow and cam lock at the top. I use the lid as a way to preheat the MLT, fly sparge, and my vorlauf. The nice thing is that when I need to stir the mash the lid and sparge arm are out of the way and its supper easy to clean.



 
I use a rubber gasket, and an old bottling cane with the spring end removed and an aerator/sprayer on the end. The racking cane lets you set the height above the grain bed and the grommet holds it in place. Just attach transfer tubing and off you go!
 
Here is an idea that has work for me for the last few years for my cooler MLT, I have a fitting that goes through the lid, then a section of lock line with a lock line sparge ring that is mounted to the bottom of the lid and a elbow and cam lock at the top. I use the lid as a way to preheat the MLT, fly sparge, and my vorlauf. The nice thing is that when I need to stir the mash the lid and sparge arm are out of the way and its supper easy to clean.






Where did you get your lock line? I've thought about something similar for mine. How easy is it to clean and what's the heat resistance like? Sometimes I'll recirculate 160F PBW solution with my paddle, fb, etc so they all get a soak during the hop schedule. Then all I have to do is wash/rinse the spoon and boil kettle when I'm finished.

Seems I've read here the lock line has mixed reviews on running hot liquids through it, so thought I would ask. Thanks.
 
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I picked the lock line up at brewhardwear.com, as far as cleaning I think it's super easy. I can pop of the end cap with my hands and pump and recirculat any cleaning products. I never use water hotter than 180 degrees as that's what I have read that is the limit for the plastic MLT. The nice thing is I can reshape it after I clean it and the ported section of lock line has large enough ports that small pieces of grian that get past my falus bottom will not clog during vorlof.
 
Do you lose much heat in a 60 minute period of time?

i.e. can I get away with just re-circulating the water without needing a hot liquor tank, or would it be better to cycle the water into a liquor tank that's receiving heat to keep the water at temp?

I only lose 1 degree in an hour without recirculating. I guess I could insulate the tubing and pump to make certain it doesn't lose too much, but any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks for this suggestion, it's not something I would have thought of and don't want to spend a great deal on putting something together, but want to move to full grain soon.
 
It depends a lot on your ambient temperature. If you are brewing out side and you live in a cold winter wonderland, then you'll definitely lose temps. I brew with a RIMS system that is constantly heating the wort as I recirculate, and I have to keep it set about 2ºF higher than my target temp because I lose that much in heat loss in the winter.
 
It depends a lot on your ambient temperature. If you are brewing out side and you live in a cold winter wonderland, then you'll definitely lose temps. I brew with a RIMS system that is constantly heating the wort as I recirculate, and I have to keep it set about 2ºF higher than my target temp because I lose that much in heat loss in the winter.

Gotcha, ok. I'll keep that in mind. I don't have the money for a controller so will look into that. Maybe I can do it manually with a RIMS system until I can afford a controller. Seems easier than dealing with a hot tank.
 

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