(Video) Low Flow from Counterflow Chiller, Output Too Cold

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Imburr

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I plan to do my first BIAB brew tomorrow, using some new equipment. I am running a test tonight too clean out eq and make sure things work as intended- and also to record temperatures and times.

Took me 40 minutes to heat up 6 gallons from 55 degrees (faucet temp) to 220.

When I was done, I set my counterflow chiller about level with the output on my keggle, and got very little flow. So I moved Keggle inside onto workbench which is maybe 1-2 feet higher than my makeshift table which holds the counterflow.

Still, only a trickle through the counterflow. Not only that, but the output (beer) temp was 55-63 f.

How do I fix this, by tomorrow? The copper user for the counterflow is 3/8. The tube from the keggle to the counterflow is 1/2, so it DOES reduce at the start of the counterfloow- would this cause this?

The keggle has a downturn pipe, which I have read is fairly standard. I tried pinching the line and letting it build up, and then rush down- it made no difference.

I got the counterflow from some guy, and it most likely was sitting in his basement with old crust beer in it for a year- a lot of brown specs were coming out with the trickle. Could it be clogged? If it was clogged, wouldnt the flow from keggle to chiller be strong though?

Here is a quick video description: https://youtu.be/t0_DLle-Ffk

Still trying to brew tomorrow, hopefully without going to spend $150 on a new immersion chiller from my LBS.
 
I raised the keggle way up to the ceiling, and that helped the flow. Problem is that on brew day, I wont be able to take flaming hot kettle and move it way up to the ceiling.
 
Disclaimer: did not watch the whole video.

Having said that:
A higher volume in the kettle will help increase pressure/flow. Start with a full amount of water/wort, and you should see a difference.
 
I built a similar CFC and found that gravity flow was very slow to the point that I thought that I had kinked the tubing. I stuck a BB in the tube and gave it a shot of compressed air and the BB came out. It took a while though to travel the 25'. You might try the same test after soaking the tube in oxyclean then starsan solution to clean the tubing. I have a little brass hose valve at the end of the water hose to control flow of coolant and I also recirculate the wort with a pump to speed things up.
 
Are you getting low flow out of the keggle? I couldn't really tell but it looked like there was air in the tubing before the chiller.
 
After a second glance at the video, it might be the pickup tube holding air. Pull it off, and see if it improves.

Long term, a pump is your best solution. I recommend this one, $70 without the stainless head, $100 with: https://www.williamsbrewing.com/MARK-II-WORT-PUMP-P4028.aspx

I have it, works great with my homemade counterflow chiller.
 
Air in tube, yes. Less so when I raised keggle up two more feet. I have PBW and OXY, ran PBW through today. Will soak in OXY tomorrow before brew. What is lowest yeast pitch temp? Can I reduce water flow it output is too low?
 
I finished the brew day, and the velocity of the chiller was... well OK. Not fast, but not slow either. Maybe 15m to fill the carboy. I had to reduce my hose pressure to just a tiny trickle in order to hit 67 degrees though.
 
I used gravity feed w/ my CFC when I first started & was doing 3g AG batches.
Once I doubled my batches to 6g a pump was the only really efficient way to go. It also allows me to whirlpool while chilling.
Also, I stick with all SS hardware & avoid brass contact with my wort.
 
A pump is not necessary. I use a similar (self-made) CFC with my 5.5-6.5 gallon batches with no pump just fine. It usually takes 15 minutes or so to empty the kettle and fill the carboy.

Took me 40 minutes to heat up 6 gallons from 55 degrees (faucet temp) to 220....Not only that, but the output (beer) temp was 55-63 f.

220°F? You might want to get your thermometers calibrated - that's above the boiling temp and there should be no way you're reaching that high. As for the wort out temp, that sounds perfect, why do you think it is an issue? I would love for my wort to come out at 60°F all of the time - in the summer that's impossible though, and I have to stick it in the chest freezer for several hours until it gets to the <60°F range so I can pitch the yeast. You said you'd rather it be 67°F, but that's likely too warm, or at least at the upper end of most yeast's range, and generally you'd want to start nearer to the lower end. What yeast are you using, and why do you want your wort so warm?

Here's a pic of my setup, minimal height difference needed:

20160826_164507.jpg
 
220°F? You might want to get your thermometers calibrated - that's above the boiling temp and there should be no way you're reaching that high. As for the wort out temp, that sounds perfect, why do you think it is an issue? I would love for my wort to come out at 60°F all of the time - in the summer that's impossible though, and I have to stick it in the chest freezer for several hours until it gets to the <60°F range so I can pitch the yeast. You said you'd rather it be 67°F, but that's likely too warm, or at least at the upper end of most yeast's range, and generally you'd want to start nearer to the lower end. What yeast are you using, and why do you want your wort so warm?

Here's a pic of my setup, minimal height difference needed:

You are right, I do need to calibrate the thermometer, didnt think of that! I was under the impression that 55 was too low to pitch- the information is of course all over the place, but it was my impression that I wanted to pitch at 67 and then ferment at 67. My yeast was Seafale US-05 and I rehydrated/started it on a stir plate for a couple of hours before the brew.

As of right now, my fermentation is exploding with joy and healthyness- my airlock this morning was bubbling at a rate of 1-2 bubbles per second.
 
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