Looking to setup and not have to move hoses for all grain setup

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GJOCONNELL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2015
Messages
401
Reaction score
43
Location
Concord
Hi guys....I have been searching on the forum and online to try to get to nirvana....not have to shift hoses at any point for an all grain setup. I am currently in the middle of switching over from QD to tri-clap and currently use the following:

2 Keggles
1 20 gallon mash tun
2 chugger SS inline pumps
Counter Flow Chiller



Basically want to be able to go from start to finish without switching hoses have been looking at 3 way valves (Duda Diesel).

I have been trying to find a diagram/pic of setup to determine which route I want to go but have found nothing definitive that is helpful.

Anyone made this happen and can share some pics of their setup?

Many thanks in advance.
 
3 way ball valves or a combination of tees and valves after the pumps. May have to get creative though depending on your own setup
 
I use a 3 vessel system as well, and it was a goal of mine to avoid having to swap hoses around. I do have to swap 1 hose when I switch from kettle recirc to the fermenter but that's it. That could be avoided by using a 3 way valve, but this way seemed simpler. I can also disconnect the mash tun while the boil is going on so I can clean it, but I don't have to do it at that point.

Here's a schematic:
ph6JmgzSuz3yd5gxsRaVv8X-VqS0luPKVOYIayN3X4Vvb9TEa6VWgVweZF5t_6iWvwjqS_XdiVMGGWUseHjzyEsP1dCDOxF5Ptvx-Qn5MOsVo8a6et2NJ9IP9OGgIZrcTv_9djhUHNDaaRaxuIXJHHUEZwoYCeLmXbKxAWnIbSzhVcUI1QBAoEpaStrW0GV_dVShxMpsekxeBpdusaiLw6mllW-jsR_Jjzd-eKh7M7NRf5jIlCncKKK87V0BjyxgouCg_2AV972XOYrQaBDPwfH_wThlFd9HLDzyB4RjS8pg9-SVFhhrBbrOmdyOtWn00ekdSbqmmMhq3c5cs63HQgwc_DXdIqaVQxVWHvfWWzyzUhgE4pYKvdHU6gKrmKWz3K4LJxLJ98MB1gRqNEK8QaqJ5cP35j1YPIRRQNtRDlICh0d8-zFOS43tZ0a0eGCW3icq6U6FYmoQ6tTr3A2fVSHBwaBH2CmBiFw9LF6gh2cBOlDvW6OUPFJahdqdTo16xrO9ACPtV6KiJ7QnL4iroEW0jyyHEIFfQGhkW3YjCSSkRjLt2jGBuvvFm0WEB2WMWDGhxk0SYXFmz--Xdi7oufYQ-5zoaxU_rWCY9FiawiDFbGV5=w769-h470-no


A picture of my rig:
S7qL0DS9qeef61QUrqo0IqNbWuW5jJoHRwE1BWe4VM90kkV6-tjzP0cJXiifzaaA2kIBZ1-Oq6wSwUclYZrIsXhgFaGW9dceeq0oGJ9XOHeOOnjv911saWwPCYLDT1Y6hzzLGrg-AJsIw1elS-aLhNJYbqeF_yx6Q7kkF5uaYpdh0O1Ls8ym4xL3HGAA_9pXr7s1lyRQubwybqlpzlp54Ue9WxA7ryq0U4mnbuJfhBxuojeKJVWdos0kMyCn0Gh41RM0DEcnRc0pPgj7LwWLZHVaoN3sOak2TZIURhzUb8y2kl1zZbvJLMbhsHYcaAu-FTF4S2CKU0DDuUX8-evplGkbKjUQJRIyZwl1J9kD9wQSp9ddJKxhEsbFGJbO0fDxqURRE52BIN8Nsrn2FFUzO1hFj5O5Xcw4agAhVGH1i4ZMjF5EVL6XMFcuppTLbUf2x7ssQ2XEwE7GYMqm60ISfv-_P1Z-tK0X-fvUPvzv02lv6sBdE2S5jiFa3x-mE4qs7NANw5W_OYBjOSwhRQv-P8hOBcnXczlI84gD3nhMk33HPYYguHpicAng95LKeVZxJl7gUS7EG--G83rwd-RrtbouhM9NULdc8OWvBLXya7WxjU93=w1634-h920-no



A close-up of the main valves:
79Hl213bfxDutFtmU5YA32QRe1hzoari-3eZLZ0nOoMz7hGi76nDsF9ElR0PcGhXwOwbgEH7gqlv1aUrmthMY_Ny8ygSLvdNQcvAnomCXTKWcIRxwoEwBdX_XaVIYCT_PnkGRW63U9PgmRChUZ_vdN6dHk6N08bwdzhOKUBpdymJAUtpERa5n_NhIbGtZ9vSSsOKmLv3acvO7iU0wYSTmKJS-vN1zavIg_OBcBSYrvNQ7pJqtJJWcXHWvCt2SdHON0pA1YG_GjiTQp0mCTrAjkstTo90Rcs4rFQNVsSmjke8SMLSnb26DVoaVRXRF8PEcAaPaXbXHHWYjqaABz11svtOb0OrVN8nyeOdOn5RgIA3ZI1ag7bJR9PFJMhqLGVzB_zTGZGsHT7p_OjiS1JklWzZMV_9r4QbYMlfzEYTQ6Np2gngksYljk_tAwYrEXFQgfycKr8KAsFdZAXsEf5Oy_Fu6-kgnUWxEwkvPFjK_nTU8hHKDPIp9rWvQULgP_5QGc2raG2yH_jlBIh_vLzAlveF01sq8bResEtlW1H-bFAdfUYReIzvrCrT3VJsAXKPwzF6gMFAK8sVyg4dRPHcD4FaM5RObvh2y02qEF4zIlHj1s0Hj2X3=w1634-h920-no
 
I use a 3 vessel system as well, and it was a goal of mine to avoid having to swap hoses around. I do have to swap 1 hose when I switch from kettle recirc to the fermenter but that's it. That could be avoided by using a 3 way valve, but this way seemed simpler. I can also disconnect the mash tun while the boil is going on so I can clean it, but I don't have to do it at that point.

Here's a schematic:
ph6JmgzSuz3yd5gxsRaVv8X-VqS0luPKVOYIayN3X4Vvb9TEa6VWgVweZF5t_6iWvwjqS_XdiVMGGWUseHjzyEsP1dCDOxF5Ptvx-Qn5MOsVo8a6et2NJ9IP9OGgIZrcTv_9djhUHNDaaRaxuIXJHHUEZwoYCeLmXbKxAWnIbSzhVcUI1QBAoEpaStrW0GV_dVShxMpsekxeBpdusaiLw6mllW-jsR_Jjzd-eKh7M7NRf5jIlCncKKK87V0BjyxgouCg_2AV972XOYrQaBDPwfH_wThlFd9HLDzyB4RjS8pg9-SVFhhrBbrOmdyOtWn00ekdSbqmmMhq3c5cs63HQgwc_DXdIqaVQxVWHvfWWzyzUhgE4pYKvdHU6gKrmKWz3K4LJxLJ98MB1gRqNEK8QaqJ5cP35j1YPIRRQNtRDlICh0d8-zFOS43tZ0a0eGCW3icq6U6FYmoQ6tTr3A2fVSHBwaBH2CmBiFw9LF6gh2cBOlDvW6OUPFJahdqdTo16xrO9ACPtV6KiJ7QnL4iroEW0jyyHEIFfQGhkW3YjCSSkRjLt2jGBuvvFm0WEB2WMWDGhxk0SYXFmz--Xdi7oufYQ-5zoaxU_rWCY9FiawiDFbGV5=w769-h470-no


A picture of my rig:
S7qL0DS9qeef61QUrqo0IqNbWuW5jJoHRwE1BWe4VM90kkV6-tjzP0cJXiifzaaA2kIBZ1-Oq6wSwUclYZrIsXhgFaGW9dceeq0oGJ9XOHeOOnjv911saWwPCYLDT1Y6hzzLGrg-AJsIw1elS-aLhNJYbqeF_yx6Q7kkF5uaYpdh0O1Ls8ym4xL3HGAA_9pXr7s1lyRQubwybqlpzlp54Ue9WxA7ryq0U4mnbuJfhBxuojeKJVWdos0kMyCn0Gh41RM0DEcnRc0pPgj7LwWLZHVaoN3sOak2TZIURhzUb8y2kl1zZbvJLMbhsHYcaAu-FTF4S2CKU0DDuUX8-evplGkbKjUQJRIyZwl1J9kD9wQSp9ddJKxhEsbFGJbO0fDxqURRE52BIN8Nsrn2FFUzO1hFj5O5Xcw4agAhVGH1i4ZMjF5EVL6XMFcuppTLbUf2x7ssQ2XEwE7GYMqm60ISfv-_P1Z-tK0X-fvUPvzv02lv6sBdE2S5jiFa3x-mE4qs7NANw5W_OYBjOSwhRQv-P8hOBcnXczlI84gD3nhMk33HPYYguHpicAng95LKeVZxJl7gUS7EG--G83rwd-RrtbouhM9NULdc8OWvBLXya7WxjU93=w1634-h920-no



A close-up of the main valves:
79Hl213bfxDutFtmU5YA32QRe1hzoari-3eZLZ0nOoMz7hGi76nDsF9ElR0PcGhXwOwbgEH7gqlv1aUrmthMY_Ny8ygSLvdNQcvAnomCXTKWcIRxwoEwBdX_XaVIYCT_PnkGRW63U9PgmRChUZ_vdN6dHk6N08bwdzhOKUBpdymJAUtpERa5n_NhIbGtZ9vSSsOKmLv3acvO7iU0wYSTmKJS-vN1zavIg_OBcBSYrvNQ7pJqtJJWcXHWvCt2SdHON0pA1YG_GjiTQp0mCTrAjkstTo90Rcs4rFQNVsSmjke8SMLSnb26DVoaVRXRF8PEcAaPaXbXHHWYjqaABz11svtOb0OrVN8nyeOdOn5RgIA3ZI1ag7bJR9PFJMhqLGVzB_zTGZGsHT7p_OjiS1JklWzZMV_9r4QbYMlfzEYTQ6Np2gngksYljk_tAwYrEXFQgfycKr8KAsFdZAXsEf5Oy_Fu6-kgnUWxEwkvPFjK_nTU8hHKDPIp9rWvQULgP_5QGc2raG2yH_jlBIh_vLzAlveF01sq8bResEtlW1H-bFAdfUYReIzvrCrT3VJsAXKPwzF6gMFAK8sVyg4dRPHcD4FaM5RObvh2y02qEF4zIlHj1s0Hj2X3=w1634-h920-no


Pics aren't showing up? Thanks for posting!
 
thumb2_goats-breath-4-61437.png


Here's my layout. The only hose move is to switch the output from the CFC between the Boil Kettle and the Fermenter at the end of the process.
 
Pics aren't showing up? Thanks for posting!

Not sure why they don't show up; I'm new here so I'm probably not posting them properly. They show up for me when I'm on the computer, but not when I'm using the phone app.

I'll try attaching them vs imbedding them. Let me know if that works or if anyone knows what I did wrong!

Schematic.PNG


20161223_131520.jpg


20161223_131548.jpg
 
Most likely due to the lack of a heat shield, some boiling is occurring in the sightglass and the tubing is directing the splatter back into the kettle.


That is exactly it. It will bubble up the sight glass and that tubing just keeps it a little cleaner.
 
I saw a build with several 3 ways and one pump once. I've looked for it several times. Was in one of the show off your rig threads I think. It may have been pictured by a pool...
 
Just to through it out there, generally a tee, 2 nipples and 2 standard ball valves is usually around the same price (or a few $ cheaper) and gives you more flexibility with where you want to pump from/to :) - just for thoughts
 
Just to through it out there, generally a tee, 2 nipples and 2 standard ball valves is usually around the same price (or a few $ cheaper) and gives you more flexibility with where you want to pump from/to :) - just for thoughts

Yeah but a couple 3 way valves with multiple inline plumbed $20 pumps offers even more flexibility with less waste trapped in the lines I think for less $..
 
BIAB full volume mash, gravity drain to fermenter. No hoses required :)

Well a little too late to go BIAB........I like to run around like a chicken with its head cutoff reading the directions fifty times to make sure I didnt miss a hop addition, whirlpooling till my arms falls off, praying I get my boil at the right vigor to avoid short filling the fermenter!!!

Wait....lol
 
A tee and nipples also create more spots to worry about **** getting caught in and the worry about bacteria. 1 3-way from Duda is 16.99 and the cost goes down a little at 5 ordered.
 
This is why I did. Quick clean ball valves on the outlet. 1" butterfly's would probably work fine, but they are more expensive anyway. I do make a hose switch, but it's only to hook up the boil kettle valve.

I also mounted my brewstand to my wall and glued my burners and pots together.

20161204_164330.jpg
 
Well a little too late to go BIAB........I like to run around like a chicken with its head cutoff reading the directions fifty times to make sure I didnt miss a hop addition, whirlpooling till my arms falls off, praying I get my boil at the right vigor to avoid short filling the fermenter!!!



Wait....lol


That's funny...thanks.
A couple three spring water bottles from the garage to top off the fermenter when you over boil and the gravity is in the cross eye range doesn't make you a bad person.

Lol
 
A tee and nipples also create more spots to worry about **** getting caught in and the worry about bacteria. 1 3-way from Duda is 16.99 and the cost goes down a little at 5 ordered.

A few more places in a system with a ton of them already isn't going to make a difference... but if you can get 3-way valves for $17 then my point really doesn't stack up :) (still think it is more versitile just not worth $10+)
 
A few more places in a system with a ton of them already isn't going to make a difference... but if you can get 3-way valves for $17 then my point really doesn't stack up :) (still think it is more versitile just not worth $10+)

I bought 3 2 from ebay similiar to these for $15 http://www.ebay.com/itm/DN15-G1-2-F...062285?hash=item210662d98d:g:mocAAOSwnH1WW~vw

and one from duda later... I ironically prefer the ebay ones because even though they were from the same manufacturer the ebay ones had a larger opening and allow more flow thru the ball.

also my current configuration leaves no wort in the system because at the end the last thing to travel thru is sparge water which comes thru the rims and plumbing at the end so I dont have to worry about wasting efficiency.
 
Hi guys....I have been searching on the forum and online to try to get to nirvana....not have to shift hoses at any point for an all grain setup. I am currently in the middle of switching over from QD to tri-clap and currently use the following:

2 Keggles
1 20 gallon mash tun
2 chugger SS inline pumps
Counter Flow Chiller

Basically want to be able to go from start to finish without switching hoses have been looking at 3 way valves (Duda Diesel).

I have been trying to find a diagram/pic of setup to determine which route I want to go but have found nothing definitive that is helpful.

Anyone made this happen and can share some pics of their setup?

Many thanks in advance.


I just got my system put together and did a test run with some Oxi clean last night. It is similar to yours.

I used 3 manifolds with a combination of 2 and 3 way valves. I am putting together a you-tube showing what I did and hope to post it in a day or two.

I have:
Tan Pump dedicated to HLT
Chugger pump for recirculation, transfer from mash tun, transfer from boil kettle to Chiller.
HLT with recirculation arm,
RIMS,
Mash Tun with Sparge Arm,
Boil Kettle with whirlpool arm,
counterflow chiller
water input.

I am using 6 - 3-way and 3 or 4 - 2-way valves on the manifolds. I have valves on the outputs of the HLT, Mash Tun amd Boil Kettle and on the input of the RIMS. I also have valves on both sides of the Chugger pump (the input has a bleeder to get air out, I don't restrict it or it would cause cavitation).

I recently bought more 2 and 3 way valves on e-bay. I spent the following on each new valve - $15.99 for 3 way, $5.99 for 2 way. Make sure that you get "T" valves for your 3 way valves. These let the valve and its "T" hole spin 360 degrees.

3-way "T" valve
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=391647195439

2-way
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=271346032325

I bought the stainless pipe, fittings and "T"s from SuppyHouse.com. They have the best prices by far and shipping is cheap.

I also bought "Kent" plastic quick connects from BargainFittings.com.

I built 3 different "Manifolds" with a 3 way valve on the outside and a 2 way valve in the middle. I ran hoses to/from them to complete what ends up being kind of a mesh.

I will be able to do a brew day without moving a hose until I put one in the fermenter.

I did find that it is going to take some thinking to flip the valves in the right directions, but it will work.


The valves on the HLT, RIMS & Mash Tun go:

3 - 2 - 3 - 2

The other two manifolds for the pump and MashTun out, Boil Kettle Whirlpool, Boil Kettle out and counterflow chiller go:

3 - 2 - 3

I will post some pictures or a link to the youtube. I will probably start a build thread.
 
I ended up going with the 3 way valves but one of them was cross threaded so I had to get a replacement which came in this week. I was able to get everything plumbed without switching and yes I have to pause for a moment before I switch everything to make sure things are flowing in the manner I want....LOL!!!
 
I'm in the process of getting everything to do this as well, thanks for the links, I was about to take the plunge on duda and this saved me some cash... Who am I kidding... It'll just go somewhere else in the system lol.
 
I have to get a couple connections sorted this weekend but I was able to get everything hooked up and not have to do any hose changes but the setup is a little terrifying. My wife was like ummm are you making a bomb in the backyard or a brewery?
 
I have to get a couple connections sorted this weekend but I was able to get everything hooked up and not have to do any hose changes but the setup is a little terrifying. My wife was like ummm are you making a bomb in the backyard or a brewery?

True that.

In testing I really had to think about what I wanted to do and really follow the flow around before I turned the pumps on. Definitely no beer till the boil is over when using this.

I plan on brewing an ESB this weekend. Can't wait to try it out.
 
True that.

In testing I really had to think about what I wanted to do and really follow the flow around before I turned the pumps on. Definitely no beer till the boil is over when using this.

I plan on brewing an ESB this weekend. Can't wait to try it out.

Yeah I didn't realize it was getting so gnar until I stepped back and was like oh crap that does look scary to the untrained eye tubes going every which way...pumps.....fire...lol
 
I have 3 way ball valves, I got them Duda diesel, great pride and quality. Also that way when I do a whirlpool it sanitizes my wort chiller.


View attachment 381770

Are those the 1/2 inch 3 way T flow valves right? What are the dimensions on those valves. I'm going to have 3 in a row separated by 3 inch nipples and I'm wondering how long in total it'll be. Thanks.
 
It seems like with the shelf heights and all the hoses and wires in the front like that, that it would be pretty hard to get in there to mix the grains and water?

There's about 8" between the top of the kettles and the front lip of the shelf above them. The hoses are long enough to move out of the way as are the wires. There is plenty of room to scoop in the grain and put in a long brewing spoon or mash paddle to stir it. Also, given they are wire shelves I can also pour the grain through the shelf above. I don't do this though, because it leaves grain dust on them and I have to brush it off or the moisture it turns it to glue. I do hang hops bags from the shelves to drain them when emptying the boil kettle and while whirl-pooling.
 
Back
Top