120v /240v combination controller build

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wright530

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Has anyone tried/ done this? Any suggestions?

Due to the fact that I am currently brewing out of my garage which only has 120v but plan to move to a brew shed in my back yard and add a 240v plug I want to build a combo system that would allow me the versatility to brew from 2 120v plugs (separate circuit) or one 240v. I already have most of my system built but have not converted to electric nor built a stand. See build thread here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=595388. I would like to install one 5500w element like this one:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple_tc.htm
and another 1675w element from brewhardware.com that has the same triclamp set up but is shorter. Everything will be wired with L6-30 plugs and for 240v.

I want to build a controller with a raspberry pi running Craftbeerpi software. What I am thinking is to run the raspberry and pump on the dedicated 120v input side and install an on/off switch for the element (it will only be used for assistance with boil when only 120v is available). It will have another separate side wired for 240v with the 5000w element controlled by the raspberry. When 240v is available I will only use this element. If no 240v is available I will use an adapter to plug the 240v side into 120v and for the boil I will use both elements at 120v on separate circuits. This will give me the versatility to brew wherever instead of being locked in to a certain outlet. (Which won't matter much if I ever get a brew shed but that could be a while)

Any help/suggestions or mistakes I can learn from appreciated!
 
Here's something I put together for a request similar to yours. In your case, you would drive the SSR control inputs from the RPi, rather than a DSPR120. It also has the capability to switch to 120V power to the element when running off a 240V supply.

DSPR120 DV-100 1-Pump 1-Aux Dual Voltage Input Output.jpg

Brew on :mug:
 
Thank you! I was going to run the pump and raspberry pi off the dedicated 120v because I was guessing that it would be to difficult to do off the 240v when only running it on 120v. I admit I don't know what some of the items in your schematic are, but I will look them up and study it more, and feel it will be a great help!

The ingenuity and willingness to help is what makes this forum great!

Here's something I put together for a request similar to yours. In your case, you would drive the SSR control inputs from the RPi, rather than a DSPR120. It also has the capability to switch to 120V power to the element when running off a 240V supply.

View attachment 379978

Brew on :mug:
 
Thank you! I was going to run the pump and raspberry pi off the dedicated 120v because I was guessing that it would be to difficult to do off the 240v when only running it on 120v. I admit I don't know what some of the items in your schematic are, but I will look them up and study it more, and feel it will be a great help!

The ingenuity and willingness to help is what makes this forum great!

Feel free to ask questions if you need clarification on anything.

Brew on :mug:
 
Feel free to ask questions if you need clarification on anything.

Brew on :mug:

1.What is the switch that isn't labeled (to the right of the one amp fuse)? Emergency shut-off?

2. When running this on 120v do you know approximately how many watts would be generated by the 5500w (at 240v) element if on a 20 amp circuit?

3. What are the amp requirements for the pump and raspberry vs. the heating element?

4. Do you happen to have a link to the original build you drew this for. I would love to see what they came up with.

Thank you again! I have very little experience in this area, but I am enjoying learning as I go.
 
1.What is the switch that isn't labeled (to the right of the one amp fuse)? Emergency shut-off? The switch is used to go between 120V operation and 240V operation when plugged into a 240V power feed. When the switch is closed, it activates the R30A relay to supply the 2nd hot line needed for 240V operation. When the switch is open, the relay is not activated, and the NC relay contact connects to neutral rather than the 2nd hot line, thus providing only 120V to the element. When plugged into a 120V power feed, it just switches (using the relay) between two different neutral wires, since the pigtail used for connection to 120V power converts the 2nd hot line to neutral.

2. When running this on 120v do you know approximately how many watts would be generated by the 5500w (at 240v) element if on a 20 amp circuit? P = V^2 / R. Since R (element resistance) is approximately constant, if you cut the voltage by 1/2 you cut the power to 1/4. 5500W / 4 = 1375W. Also, P = I * V, so I = P / V. Thus at 120V your now 1375W element will draw 1375W / 120V = 11.5A.

3. What are the amp requirements for the pump and raspberry vs. the heating element? At 240V, the element will draw 5500W / 240V = 23A. At 120V the element will draw 11.5 (as calculated above.) A chugger pump draws about 1.4A (although there is a short current surge at start-up.) The RPi draws less than 1A @ 5V or consumes less than 5W. Even with a crappy 50% efficiency 120V -> 5V power supply, the RPi would account for only 10W / 120V = 0.084A. Although if you max out USB devices plugged into the RPi, it could draw up to 0.4A from the 120V supply. So, you need a 30A service to run at 240V and 15A service at 120V (although a 20A circuit would be better.)

4. Do you happen to have a link to the original build you drew this for. I would love to see what they came up with. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=592635

Thank you again! I have very little experience in this area, but I am enjoying learning as I go.

Brew on :mug:
 
Has anyone tried/ done this? Any suggestions?

Due to the fact that I am currently brewing out of my garage which only has 120v but plan to move to a brew shed in my back yard and add a 240v plug I want to build a combo system that would allow me the versatility to brew from 2 120v plugs (separate circuit) or one 240v.

You may already realize this, but I think that while the 120V may be on a separate circuit, you should also make sure they are on the opposite power BUSSes of your breaker box.
 
Hi everyone, i hope someone is still monitoring this thread. I'm a noob to the craftbeerpi system and I'm having an issue I can't seem to figure out. I've wired up the craftbeerpi according to the instructions on their site, set up the pi which works fine, however I'm getting constant power to the outlets without the 3v coming from the pi. The weirdest part, is there's no continuity between poles 1 & 2, yet pole 2 is still getting 120. I've attached a quick diagram of how I wired everything. I have 4-wire 240 coming into the box, powering both the 240 and 120 outlets. Thanks in advance.
SSR Wiring for Craftbeerpi.png
 
Hi everyone, i hope someone is still monitoring this thread. I'm a noob to the craftbeerpi system and I'm having an issue I can't seem to figure out. I've wired up the craftbeerpi according to the instructions on their site, set up the pi which works fine, however I'm getting constant power to the outlets without the 3v coming from the pi. The weirdest part, is there's no continuity between poles 1 & 2, yet pole 2 is still getting 120. I've attached a quick diagram of how I wired everything. I have 4-wire 240 coming into the box, powering both the 240 and 120 outlets. Thanks in advance.View attachment 605388

Is the PI in the diagram labeled correctly? Is the black a ground or the negative pole of the 3v? Not knowing r-pi, how is it differentiating between the individual relays? Are there separate connections on the terminal block for each relay? Do you have the 120v outlets split with the jumper broken off? Are the relays normally closed? Have you tried connecting 3v directly to the relay's, bypassing the pi (using an old cell phone power supply or something similar).
 
Did you connect any load? With no load voltmeter will show a voltage due to small leak (milliamps) through SSR. As soon as you connect any load (Heating element, Light bulb etc) you’ll get 0 when no 3.3V applied to control SSR circuit
 
So I took the risk and hooked up the pumps and heating elements and was blown away. There's 120v going to each of the components, but they won't actually turn on until I activate them through the pi. I don't understand it, but it's working great now, so I guess there's nothing wrong. Thank you for the help.
 
So I took the risk and hooked up the pumps and heating elements and was blown away. There's 120v going to each of the components, but they won't actually turn on until I activate them through the pi. I don't understand it, but it's working great now, so I guess there's nothing wrong. Thank you for the help.

I am looking to build something like this. Can you share a photo of this?
 
Sure thing. I have a wiring schematic, of my setup, for the outlets and the SSRs (solid state relays) and I would recommend going to the following sites for instructions on setting up the wiring and software for the CBPI (crafbeerpi). I ran a test run tonight and everything turned on, it heated the water, ran the pumps, boiled the water, but I still need to adjust the configuration so everything works correctly and in unison. Here are the sites for the craftbeerpi setup: web.craftbeerpi.com/hardware/
https://leaningman.com/2016/05/automated-brewery/
https://cdn.instructables.com/F8M/RJ4Y/IKMVE3ZP/F8MRJ4YIKMVE3ZP.LARGE.jpg
https://opensource.com/article/17/7/brewing-beer-python-and-raspberry-pi
SSR Wiring for Craftbeerpi.png
SSR Wiring for Craftbeerpi.png
 
Here's something I put together for a request similar to yours. In your case, you would drive the SSR control inputs from the RPi, rather than a DSPR120. It also has the capability to switch to 120V power to the element when running off a 240V supply.

View attachment 379978

Brew on :mug:
I like your design and have been gathering parts. On your mini power relay can you safely use the black and neutral to power the relay? So it automatically changes? Worst case you run half of the 240, = 120 if the relay failed.
 
I like your design and have been gathering parts. On your mini power relay can you safely use the black and neutral to power the relay? So it automatically changes? Worst case you run half of the 240, = 120 if the relay failed.
It automatically changes from 120V to 240V depending on what it is plugged into. At 120V input, you will be at 120V regardless of the position of the switch that controls the mini power relay. At 240V input, the switch controls whether the element gets 120V or 240V. What happens when the relay fails depends on whether it gets stuck in the 120V position, the 240V position, or totally open.
  1. If the relay fails open, then you get no power at all to the element on either 120V or 240V input.
  2. If the relay fails in the 120V position, you get 120V power to the element with the switch in either position for 120V input. At 240V input, you get no power to the element
  3. If the relay fails in the 240V position, you get 240V power to the element with the switch in the 240V position with 240V input. and 120V power to the element with 120V input.
Brew on :mug:
 

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