h4rdluck
Well-Known Member
I have been brewing this way for about 6-7 years. My local home brew club thinks I am a little crazy as I just make up recipies and I do a mix of BIAB and Extract brewing. I just don't seem to want to bother going to all grain due to buying more equipment plus I have been doing it this way for so long.
So I have a 10 gallon kettle. I have a bad that can hold 10-20 pounds of grain. But typically I have anywhere between 4-6 pounds of fermentable 2-row or equivalent that I mash in the bag in about 8 gallons of water for 60-75 minutes. Then I pull the bag out, add 3-4 pounds of DME and go to boil and then add the remainder of my DME at flameout basically allowing it to boil for 2-3 minutes before cutting off the flames.
I am trying to determine how much fermentable sugar I may be extracting from my BIAB and I have never bothered to try and really figure it out.
My last batch was a 10gallon barleywine.
I had 4 pounds of marris otter and 4 pounds of german pilsner. This was in 8 gallons of water that I mashed starting at 156 in the brew kettle for 70 minutes. At the end of 70 minutes the kettle reads ~147F (and I stir the grains in the bag up every 15-20 minutes). If it matters there was 2 pounds of crystal 70L in the bag as well (I'm not including that there are always 1-3 pounds of non fermentables in the mash as well - crystal, carapils, chocolate, black malt ect
After this last round I measured the wort after the mash and got a SG of 1032.
What are the effects of having too much water to grains ratio? Am I extracting more or less sugar? Is the mashing efficient? or are the enzymes too dilute to work effectively in conversion?
I then added 15 pounds of DME to the brew (5 to boil with hops) and then 10 at flame out.
My final OG is around 1.1 with all the DME added.
I have beer smith but find it isn't very useful in interpreting my results.
I prefer to just make beer, but I guess lately am looking to know more about my brew technique.
Also since my kettle is 10 gallons only, I have to boil/mash in 8 gallons. Then at flameout I add 2 gallons of water to reach my 10 gallons (I don't want to buy a 15 gallon pot...so I have to dilute at the end as well).
So I have a 10 gallon kettle. I have a bad that can hold 10-20 pounds of grain. But typically I have anywhere between 4-6 pounds of fermentable 2-row or equivalent that I mash in the bag in about 8 gallons of water for 60-75 minutes. Then I pull the bag out, add 3-4 pounds of DME and go to boil and then add the remainder of my DME at flameout basically allowing it to boil for 2-3 minutes before cutting off the flames.
I am trying to determine how much fermentable sugar I may be extracting from my BIAB and I have never bothered to try and really figure it out.
My last batch was a 10gallon barleywine.
I had 4 pounds of marris otter and 4 pounds of german pilsner. This was in 8 gallons of water that I mashed starting at 156 in the brew kettle for 70 minutes. At the end of 70 minutes the kettle reads ~147F (and I stir the grains in the bag up every 15-20 minutes). If it matters there was 2 pounds of crystal 70L in the bag as well (I'm not including that there are always 1-3 pounds of non fermentables in the mash as well - crystal, carapils, chocolate, black malt ect
After this last round I measured the wort after the mash and got a SG of 1032.
What are the effects of having too much water to grains ratio? Am I extracting more or less sugar? Is the mashing efficient? or are the enzymes too dilute to work effectively in conversion?
I then added 15 pounds of DME to the brew (5 to boil with hops) and then 10 at flame out.
My final OG is around 1.1 with all the DME added.
I have beer smith but find it isn't very useful in interpreting my results.
I prefer to just make beer, but I guess lately am looking to know more about my brew technique.
Also since my kettle is 10 gallons only, I have to boil/mash in 8 gallons. Then at flameout I add 2 gallons of water to reach my 10 gallons (I don't want to buy a 15 gallon pot...so I have to dilute at the end as well).