PID Controller for Brew Stand

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arringtonbp

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Doing some planning for a brew stand, and I'm working on building a BOM for the electrical parts of it.

I'm planning on doing a brutus-style system similar to this one:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=172927

He recommends this temperature controller:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=106

Will any of these temperature controllers be a decent substitute?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQ8TOZG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Following that, he recommends a 120VAC tranformer (40Va AT 140-A1000). Can I still use that with the temperature controller substitution above? I'm still planning to use the Honeywell gas valves and two of these pumps:
http://www.northernbrewer.com/the-steelhead-2-pump
 
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The difference between the two controllers linked is the output. The inkbird is designed to run an external SSR; the auber has a 3A relay output.
You can still use the inkbird, you just will need to buy the package that contains the SSR.

What do you need the doorbell transformer for? Why would you use DC pumps, are you planning on running it off battery power?
 
If you don't want to pay for the Auber unit, a Mypin TA-4RNR ($25 on Amazon) would be a decent substitute. That is what I use to operate my Honeywell solenoids. By the time you buy a different unit with SSR drivers and then add an SSR to interface with the solenoid valves, you will approach the price of the Auber. That, and the extra wiring and hardware involved. Just get a unit with relay output instead.
 
You will need a 24VAC transformer regardless of the PID module you select. 40VA is plenty to simultaneously energize three valves. I think I paid about $15 for mine on Amazon.
 
You can see how I built my control panel with parts list on the last link in my sigline.

image 5.jpeg


image 6.jpeg


PID.jpeg
 
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The difference between the two controllers linked is the output. The inkbird is designed to run an external SSR; the auber has a 3A relay output.
You can still use the inkbird, you just will need to buy the package that contains the SSR.

What do you need the doorbell transformer for? Why would you use DC pumps, are you planning on running it off battery power?

The transformer is to step down the voltage to 24V for the honeywell gas solenoids.

I'm using the northern brewer pumps because they were cheaper than the chugger pumps at the time. They run off of a laptop adaptor which feeds them DC power. However, the input to the laptop power adaptors is AC.
 
If you don't want to pay for the Auber unit, a Mypin TA-4RNR ($25 on Amazon) would be a decent substitute. That is what I use to operate my Honeywell solenoids. By the time you buy a different unit with SSR drivers and then add an SSR to interface with the solenoid valves, you will approach the price of the Auber. That, and the extra wiring and hardware involved. Just get a unit with relay output instead.

This one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X73GX6C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Maybe I'm not understanding the specs, but it says it's SSR control ready. Doesn't that mean I need to add an SSR to it?

If so, people have frequently bought this one with it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087ZTN08/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Either the model number or the description is wrong. The "RNR" model is relay output. The SSR version is "SNR". The RNR won't operate an SSR and doesn't need one. It will, however, activate a solenoid valve if 24VAC is supplied. The sketches above show hookups that work with a TA4-RNR PID (I am using them here). They would not work with a TA4-SNR.
 
You can how I built my control panel with parts list on the last link in my sigline.

When would you want to use the second of your 3 examples?

I think I will end up using the 3rd example, as I want to have Auto, Manual, and off (for cleaning mostly).

I guess what I will end up with is essentially a gas powered RIMS.
 
The second example controls my hot liquor tank burner. I control it according to a temperature sensor in the HLT when I am doing the initial heating of cold water. During the mash, I control it instead from a temperature sensor in the heat exchanger output. The third setup is on my mash tun burner. I use it in auto for heating to strike temperature, and sometimes to get to mashout temperatures more quickly. I can also use it for direct heat RIMS - but I usually use the HERMS instead. I never use the "ON" function but the switch position was available so I hooked it up.
 
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