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Old 03-14-2008, 08:30 PM   #11
landhoney
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverend JC
I had kind of figured that was why you were calling it the pLambic but i wasnt sure.

By definition then one of my fav brews is a "pKolsch" since, if im not mistaken a real Kolsch can only be brewed in the town of Cologne.
Welcome to the church Reverend JC!!

I realize this can be a tough issue, American Wild Ale is the 'catch all' for American sour beers. Short of a lengthy description on the bottle, how are the uninitiated to get an idea what's in the commercial bottle of unknown beer - sour brown, sour red, sour wheat??? I don't have all the answers, but I try to be respectful of a very unique beer/brewing process/history/etc.
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Old 03-15-2008, 06:09 AM   #12
Kai
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boerderij Kabouter
Is this all in the plastic primary? Doesn't this seem like too much O2 and what about autolysis over three years? I have been trying to research this as best I may but as the date approaches I want all my questions answered.
The oxygenation from the plastic bucket could be to imitate the oxygen leaching in the barrels lambic is traditionally fermented in. I'd be worried about flavour leaching from the plastic at that timeframe.

(I believe the micro-oxygenation helps develop a good brettanomyces profile, perhaps other beasties benefit)
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Old 03-15-2008, 07:11 AM   #13
mblakely
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How do you deal with the added bacteria in your brewing set up. I mean, do you designate specific carboys for plambics? How do you sanitize or clean out your equipment. From what I am told the added bacteria can be tricky to kill.

Also, after primary aren't most plambics stored in wood barrels (a luxury, indeed)? It seems like oxygen would seep through, so maybe minimal oxygen would not be so bad.

I am wanting to brew a peach plambic this summer and have been doing a bit of research.

Thanks
Matt
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Old 03-16-2008, 04:25 AM   #14
landhoney
 
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Some oxygen can be good, too much is bad. From 'Wild Brews':

Type // Gallons(size) // ( O2 cc/L/year )
Rodenbach tun(small) // 3,168 // .53
Wine Barrel // 80 // 8.5
Homebrew Bucket // 5.3 // 220
Glass Carboy w/wood stopper // 5.3 // .10
Glass Carboy w/immersion tube // 5.3 // .31

The last number is how much O2 gets in contact with the beer per Liter per year. So the homebrew bucket is letting in waaayyyy more than any barrel commercial brewers are using. And I don't think the plastic 'flavor' ever comes out into a beer. People do leave beer in them for many months, and I've never heard of anyone complaining about this.
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Old 03-17-2008, 06:07 PM   #15
Boerderij_Kabouter
 
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I have heard of people sealing carboys with a 1/2 inch oak dowel pushed through a stopper during storage. The dowel allows a little more air in than the glass alone. This is what I was planning on doing. I really need to get that wild brews book. I just saw it the other day for the first time.

What is an immersion tube?

 
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Old 03-18-2008, 03:55 PM   #16
DraconianHand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boerderij Kabouter
I have heard of people sealing carboys with a 1/2 inch oak dowel pushed through a stopper during storage. The dowel allows a little more air in than the glass alone.
On my Flanders Red I used an untreated oak spindle from Home Depot. I cut it to size and pushed it through a modified carboy stopper. I haven't sampled it and since I fermented it in a 5 gallon carboy, the krausen crud on the interior of the glass wall (above the fluid level) prevents me peeking in. It should be "ready" in November.
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Ferminatin' - Route 666 Pale Ale

Figurin' to do - Oatmeal Stout, Gueuze, Belgian Blonde, Mild, English Pale Ale, Weizenbock

 
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Old 03-19-2008, 03:27 PM   #17
effigyoffaith
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Are you sure that the oak spindle was white oak. Most oak used in lumber is red oak which is not typically used in brewing. You might not like the result if it's red oak.

 
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Old 03-20-2008, 10:42 AM   #18
DraconianHand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by effigyoffaith
Are you sure that the oak spindle was white oak. Most oak used in lumber is red oak which is not typically used in brewing. You might not like the result if it's red oak.
Hmmm, it appears I have made an error. I do believe that you are correct and I have used red oak. I'll have to see if I can scare up a white oak dowel.
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Ferminatin' - Route 666 Pale Ale

Figurin' to do - Oatmeal Stout, Gueuze, Belgian Blonde, Mild, English Pale Ale, Weizenbock

 
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Old 03-20-2008, 05:56 PM   #19
landhoney
 
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The other option is to boil the oak in water, change the water, and repeat several times after toasting the oak(or not, but I think toasted is better). I was looking for the oxygen diffusion/exposure of the oak, not the flavor. I added a few french oak cubes for the oak flavor.
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:45 PM   #20
Boerderij_Kabouter
 
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To continue kicking the pGueze cat...

When aging my pGueze, should a age each "vintage" separately and blend just a few months before bottling? This was my original thought:

1. Brew first batch, ferment and age in 2 6g glass carboys. Wait 1 year
2. Brew second batch, ferment and age in 2 6g glass carboys, first batch is now one year old. Wait one year.
3. Brew third batch, ferment and age in 2 6g glass carboys, first batch is two years old, second batch is one year old. Wait one year.
4. Brew fourth batch, ferment and age in 2 6g glass carboys, first batch is three years old, second batch is two years old, third batch is one year old. Blend 6 gallons of the first, second, and third batches together, wait one month then bottle.

Then I would continue brewing one batch a year and mixing the carboys.

Does this make sense, or should I just be dumping this all into one large fermenter and letting the "vintages" age together in bulk? I like the separate carboy idea because it should give a more continuous and consistent pGueze (the way I see it).

What is everyone else going to do (or doing)?

 
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