Can You Get the Boil too "Hot"?

I do stovetop 3-4 gallons batches using a trick I read (from DeathBrewer?) in HomeBrewTalk. I have the pot wrapped in insulation to heat up better in my electric stovetop. (I can't find the reference, but IIRC it was a sticky.)

My question: Is it possible to get the boil too "hot"? In other words, could there be bad effects from having the insulation around the pot, keeping more heat in the liquid than there otherwise might be during the boil?

Thanks!

Boiling temperature is boiling temperature. It doesn't change unless you change altitude or atmospheric pressure.

Unless there is something else going on the insulation will allow more efficient use of your heat source.

You can boil "too hard" by pouring more energy into the kettle than needed to maintain a decent roll, which can amplify Maillard reactions that darken the beer...

Cheers!

Typically brewers look for around 15% boil off per hour (equivalent to 1G boil off on a 5G batch). At a certain point, say 25% boil off, this becomes somewhat counterproductive and will result in excessively dark wort. However, the benefits of using an insulated boil kettle (increased efficiency) far outweigh the drawbacks -- if you think your boil is too vigorous, just turn the heat down.

My brother always hates to brew (boil) on his stove as it doesn't get that good, strong rolling boil. My stove gets a slightly better boil than his but I wouldn't classify it as strong. My beers come out fine.

That being said, a propane burner speeds up the process and the boil is much more vigorous depending on how much you're giving it. Either way I have been successful so I say low to medium is my choice.

Similar question, but I wonder if there would be any DMS ramifications of using a pressure cooker?

MrFancyPlants said:

Similar question, but I wonder if there would be any DMS ramifications of using a pressure cooker?

Click to expand...

In addition to DMS, I believe there are other components that you want to drive off during the boil. From what little I know the sealed pressure cooker with minimal boil off doesn't sound like a good idea.

day_trippr said:

You can boil "too hard" by pouring more energy into the kettle than needed to maintain a decent roll, which can amplify Maillard reactions that darken the beer...

Cheers!

Click to expand...

Plus some boil overs when you aren't looking.

MrFancyPlants said:

Similar question, but I wonder if there would be any DMS ramifications of using a pressure cooker?

Click to expand...

Yes, there definitely is.

Using a non-public (give me a few hours to iron everything out) copy of Mark Hammonds DMS estimator from the Milk the Funk page...

Lets assume the following:

If the dms concentration is ~20 micro grams / L (taste threshold is generally accepted to be 30-50).

Changing the sole difference from 15 minute boil to a 15 minute 250F closed container (pressure cooker) the resulting dms concentration is estimated to be roughly 375 micro grams / L after the heating cycle.... That sounds like some delicious cooked corn.

Now this is not strictly true, as even a pressure cooker allows steam output, so it should be slightly less than 275. How much less I have no idea, would need to know the change in volume (or mass) when pressure cooking over the course of determined time period.

Suffice to say, if you use a pressure cooker it should be a small volume!

NEAT!

One thing I learned from making/adapting/playing with this tool is how much cooling influences DMS concentration. It's very volatile, and a quick cooling time (~5 minutes like the JaDed chillers, or an oversized counterflow) actually will increase your final DMS concentration in comparison to a more typical cooling time (15-25 using a standard immersion chiller).