Brew in a Basket...anybody try one of these?

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iamwhatiseem

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https://utahbiodieselsupply.com/brewingfilters.php#biab

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Seems like a good idea?
 
I don't see why it wouldn't work. Being stainless definitely helps with longevity. I'd be curious how the fine mesh would behave as far as clogging and speed of run off are concerned.

But yeah, worth a shot.
 
I've been using the same tulle bag for about 75 batches... No longevity problems with the ol ' cloth bag for me.
 
I just bought mine from arborfab.com (unfortunately, it hasn't arrived yet.):( Chad is a very easy guy to speak to and will be happy to take specific measurements and make recommendations. I chose a 600 micron mesh, figuring I didn't need as fine as 400. I think they also manufacture for utahbiodiesel since the hop basket I ordered from them actually came from Arborfab. Here's an interesting blog article that finally convinced me to buy mine since I had the same problems with recirculating. I already used a stainless hop basket, so I figured, why not a grain basket too? Yes, a bag will work and last a long time (mine has,) but this just seems so much easier. Another benefit is that mine will have 3" legs that will stand over the heating element, so absolutely no chance of burned or scorched bag when heating to mash out.
 
I just bought mine from arborfab.com (unfortunately, it hasn't arrived yet.):( Chad is a very easy guy to speak to and will be happy to take specific measurements and make recommendations. I chose a 600 micron mesh, figuring I didn't need as fine as 400. I think they also manufacture for utahbiodiesel since the hop basket I ordered from them actually came from Arborfab. Here's an interesting blog article that finally convinced me to buy mine since I had the same problems with recirculating. I already used a stainless hop basket, so I figured, why not a grain basket too? Yes, a bag will work and last a long time (mine has,) but this just seems so much easier. Another benefit is that mine will have 3" legs that will stand over the heating element, so absolutely no chance of burned or scorched bag when heating to mash out.

A great solution to a non-problem. Unless you are doing a fly sparge which should take 45 to 60 minutes, you don't need a mash out. Without heating for a mash out, no scorching.

Your perceived benefit from having the 3" legs is actually a detriment as you exclude the water that is below the screen from interacting with the grain. You end up with a situation much like "topping off" where you add water to the wort, thus diluting it. If you are recirculating, you avoid this but then you will have problems with the screen clogging unless you have grain that is milled more coarsely and then you negate the advantage of BIAB's ability to use finely milled grain. You'll end up like the dog chasing its tail.

While some have touted the longevity of the screened basket, the payback of the funds invested is too many years. You'd have been much farther ahead to replace the bag periodically and spend the extra money on ingredients. You may not live long enough to have a payback on the screened basket.
 
I had one made for me from the basket of a Bayou Classic 1044. It helps to have a buddy who is a welder for a stainless company. I found mine cleans very easy. In fact, way easier than the bags I was using previously. The sides are mesh but the bottom is perforated. I had no problems with grains coming through. My final goal is to run it as a recirculating system.

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I find this to be untrue. I'm using a basket with legs to keep it off my element. I also recirculate, mash for 60 minutes, *and* I mash out. I also use a pretty standard grind with a mild amount a grain conditioning. I find that it drains a lot better than milling into flour and dealing with porridge amd negates the need for a bunch of squeezing.

I also regularly get 81-82% brewhouse efficiency. No squeezing.

I have tried not doing a mash out. I find that the lowered viscosity of the wort after mash out aids draining the basket.

RM-MN provides a lot of decent info, but when it comes to some things, he's a one-trick pony.
 
A great solution to a non-problem. Unless you are doing a fly sparge which should take 45 to 60 minutes, you don't need a mash out. Without heating for a mash out, no scorching.

Your perceived benefit from having the 3" legs is actually a detriment as you exclude the water that is below the screen from interacting with the grain. You end up with a situation much like "topping off" where you add water to the wort, thus diluting it. If you are recirculating, you avoid this but then you will have problems with the screen clogging unless you have grain that is milled more coarsely and then you negate the advantage of BIAB's ability to use finely milled grain. You'll end up like the dog chasing its tail.

While some have touted the longevity of the screened basket, the payback of the funds invested is too many years. You'd have been much farther ahead to replace the bag periodically and spend the extra money on ingredients. You may not live long enough to have a payback on the screened basket.

@RM-MN. I respectfully disagree. The screen basket will be more than fine enough to allow a finer crush and give me the efficiency I want. The 3" standoff should give it plenty of room for the wort to flow through without contacting the element. The whole reason I went with the basket was because my bag would get clogged, mimicking a stuck sparge, and I could no longer recirculate. As for mashing out, you may be correct in that it's unnecessary, but it doesn't hurt either. I constantly find the dogma of the brewing process set on it's ear by newer, better, more efficient procedures and I'm often quick to adjust. That goes hand-in-hand with your comment about payback. I'm doing this for me as a hobby, not as a business, so ROI is not a big deal. The pleasure I derive from the activity is. I could just as easily drop $900 on a Grainfather instead of building my brewery one piece at a time (starting years ago with a turkey fryer on sale at Walmart,) so that would be a good investment, right? Maybe one day I will buy one (subject of course to SWMBO's approval,) but until then, i think I'm doing okay.
:mug:
 
I bought one of these baskets recently and used it for the first time on Saturday. I've done 10+ batches using a bag, and the main problem I had was while lifting the bag out, there were a couple seconds where wort would spill out over the sides of the kettle. Not a big deal, but something I wanted to avoid.

The new basket worked great. I had them weld hooks near the bottom, that in conjunction with a bracket allows me to drain right over the kettle.

As for cleaning - it was super easy - easier than the bag certainly. The only tricky part was some grain was stuck in the crevice between the base and the sides.

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My small basket is super easy to clean, turn it upside down and hose it. I also throw it in the dishwasher sometimes.

I use it in a recirculated eBIAB system, so it keepsthe grain off the element.
 
@RM-MN. I respectfully disagree. The screen basket will be more than fine enough to allow a finer crush and give me the efficiency I want. The 3" standoff should give it plenty of room for the wort to flow through without contacting the element. The whole reason I went with the basket was because my bag would get clogged, mimicking a stuck sparge, and I could no longer recirculate. As for mashing out, you may be correct in that it's unnecessary, but it doesn't hurt either. I constantly find the dogma of the brewing process set on it's ear by newer, better, more efficient procedures and I'm often quick to adjust. That goes hand-in-hand with your comment about payback. I'm doing this for me as a hobby, not as a business, so ROI is not a big deal. The pleasure I derive from the activity is. I could just as easily drop $900 on a Grainfather instead of building my brewery one piece at a time (starting years ago with a turkey fryer on sale at Walmart,) so that would be a good investment, right? Maybe one day I will buy one (subject of course to SWMBO's approval,) but until then, i think I'm doing okay.
:mug:

I have no problem with you spending your money on your hobby. I spend plenty on my hobbies too. What I question is the need to recirculate for your 60 minute mash. I've run some tests that say that the conversion with finely milled grain is less than 10 minutes. In that short of time, the temperature of my mash drifts so little with even a small amount of insulation on the kettle that my digital thermometer has trouble measuring it. Once the starch is converted, the longer mash period may allow the beta amylase more time to break down the longer chain sugars to more fermentable sugars but a lower mash temp should do that too. What then does the recirculation improve?

Mashing out doesn't hurt anything if your pH is low enough that you don't extract tannins but it doesn't help either. The_Bishop states that the lowered viscosity of the wort is his reason for mashout but the difference in viscostity between 150 degree wort and 170 degree wort is nearly non existent.
 
Recirculation does help in conversion. The act of recirculation keeps the wort in motion, carrying away sugars from the gelatinizing and converting starch granules, constantly revealing new starch for the enzymes to work on.

Not everyone has a system that allows them to grind the grain into flour which helps with short mashes. I'd even say that a longer mash would help even finely milled grains, as it takes a bit of time for the specialty grains to release their flavor (crystal malts take time to steep, roasted grains need time to release their flavors/color) and some more time for adjuncts to gelatinize and be converted.

I used to be a 'mill to flour' BIAB brewer. Now that I have my new rig built, I've discovered that I don't need to pulverize the grain. In fact, when recirculating it's detrimental to do so, as you need the mash to stay fluid with more intact husks and it simply turns into porridge when the grain is milled too fine causing issues with grain bed flow.

I'm not saying that a 60 minute mash is the only way to fly. If you can mash for a shorter period, and you like the way your beer turns out then by all means go for it. I prefer the way my beer turns out with the longer mash after trying a 30 minute mash a time or two. In my experience, the flavor of the beer was more complete as there was more time for the specialty grains to release their flavor and the flaked adjuncts to do their thing.

Also, not all mashes are single infusion. Step mashes are still used for some beer styles. You are not doing a step mash in 10 minutes.

Not looking for an argument. Just stating that your default answer of, "Mill to flour and mash for 10 minutes" is not the only way to fly and could cause issues for new brewers.

As for mash-out: All I know is on my system (both of them, bag and basket), I get more complete and faster draining once I started doing a mashout, without having to squeeze a 150+ degree grain bag (or basket, in my case) and the resultant mess it has the capacity to create. I have to heat the wort up to boil it, anyway. It's really no added trouble.
 
I just bought mine from arborfab.com (unfortunately, it hasn't arrived yet.):( Chad is a very easy guy to speak to and will be happy to take specific measurements and make recommendations. I chose a 600 micron mesh, figuring I didn't need as fine as 400. I think they also manufacture for utahbiodiesel since the hop basket I ordered from them actually came from Arborfab. Here's an interesting blog article that finally convinced me to buy mine since I had the same problems with recirculating. I already used a stainless hop basket, so I figured, why not a grain basket too? Yes, a bag will work and last a long time (mine has,) but this just seems so much easier. Another benefit is that mine will have 3" legs that will stand over the heating element, so absolutely no chance of burned or scorched bag when heating to mash out.

I wanted to provide an update. My basket came in, and it fits perfectly! The only mod I made to my kettle was to put a coupling on the thermometer so the probe didn't hit the basket. I'm excited to do my first brew with it and I'll let you know how it came out. A big shout out to Chad at Arbor Fabricating. I sent him the specs, and he sent me a really nice basket (at a great price.)

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Tried my basket today for the first time brewing Biermuncher's Centennial Blonde. Other than getting used to using some new equipment, it worked flawlessly and it looks like my efficiency is right at 80%. Clean up was a snap...rinse with the hose, dry in the sun...done! It was 8.75 pound grain bill, and only filled the basket 1/3 way full, so I figure I can easily go up to about 18 pounds for heavier beers. Although you don't have to with BIAB, I pulled a gallon of treated water before mashing, and used it to rinse the grain basket at about 170*F then pressed the grain in the basket with a pot lid. One thing I did learn, however, was that using a kettle thermometer with a coupling results in faulty (i.e. low,) temp readings. I went ahead and pulled the thermometer, and plugged the hole. I'll be using a digital thermometer for mashing from now on.

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Not trying to be nosy, but if you guys don't mind how much was your basket from Chad? Just trying to get an idea of a custom built basket.
 
It depends a lot on the size and features of the basket. Your best bet is to hit the website and fill out the form for a quote.
 
Im done with bags. Cant tell you how many Ive burned and torn. Stepping up to a mesh basket.:rockin:

@kevreh. I think you'll be really happy if you do. As I said in one of my previous posts, Chad at Arbor Fab is the man, and will help you with any questions you have, and give you a great product for a reasonable price. If you have any questions on the pulley system, or the J-hooks I used, let me know.
:ban:
 
I've been talking with Chad about modifying my steamer basket. I have a BC 1044 with basket. I like that the BC basket has a ridge around the top that sits on an indention near the top of the pot. The original basket does not get very good flow through the grains when used with a bag so I have to stir a lot. I'm pretty excited to try it out.
 
I've been talking with Chad about modifying my steamer basket. I have a BC 1044 with basket. I like that the BC basket has a ridge around the top that sits on an indention near the top of the pot. The original basket does not get very good flow through the grains when used with a bag so I have to stir a lot. I'm pretty excited to try it out.

Have you tried simply modifying the steamer basket? I used a big punch to enlarge the holes in mine. Worked great.

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I bought one of these baskets recently and used it for the first time on Saturday. I've done 10+ batches using a bag, and the main problem I had was while lifting the bag out, there were a couple seconds where wort would spill out over the sides of the kettle. Not a big deal, but something I wanted to avoid.

The new basket worked great. I had them weld hooks near the bottom, that in conjunction with a bracket allows me to drain right over the kettle.

As for cleaning - it was super easy - easier than the bag certainly. The only tricky part was some grain was stuck in the crevice between the base and the sides.

Same here... I have the same basket and will never go back to bags, they were such a pain to clean and to regulate recirc flow.
 
I use a 12 Gallon kettle with an Utah Bio-diesel 400 micron Basket and will never go back to a nylon bag again. It has stand off feet so no need for a false bottom, the perimeter is open allowing more circulation when stirring, a handle for lifting the basket, drain back is much faster so the basket is not as heavy initially, it has a stand to allow further draining, and removing is easier to manage spills or burning your hands. You can press the grains to drain faster although I do not and I'm still hitting my expected efficiency/gravity without doing that. Cleaning is ridiculously easy as the spent grains fall right off and out when sprayed with a a hose.

I picked up my kettle online for $65 with a steam tray that I use as a lid, and the basket from Utah Bio-diesel as a blem for $100 (blem was a slight bend in the side bar which i just bent back). It was a cheap and highly effective all in one brew solution and I've very happy with it!

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Cool, good find. So are you sparging or rinsing the grains? What kind off efficiency are you getting?
 
I took quite a few different approaches to this at first, looking for what works best for my setup with varied results. I now mash in the entire batch volume (+ expected boil off), no sparge, only a final ramp up of temp at the end before drain and regularly hit 74-77% efficiency (depending on the grain bill) after boil off. In the bag, I would have to sparge and/or sqeeze the bag to meet those numbers.
 
Whats better, 300 or 600 micron, what are most people using?

I got the 600 micron as I figured it doesn't need the "filtering" precison of 300 or 400. So far, I'm really happy with it and getting about 78-80% efficiency by milling at the default ~.045" on my Schmidling Maltmill. I do sparge (rinse) with about a gallon of the treated mash water (pulled before mashing,) and then press the grain bed in the basket with a pot lid. I found that using a colander helps disperse the rinse water a little better.

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Nice setup! Do you run a bayou burner with it wrapped in reflective bubble wrap or is it electric?
Thanks! I used to run gas, now it's electric (only 120V, hence the insulation.) Just a comment on your pics (BTW, also nice setup,) be careful of your thermometer's readings. I did the exact same thing to get the probe out of the way of the basket and found that it was off by about -25⁰ (reads lower than actually is) when I was mashing. Now, I always use a digital thermometer to check the mash temp, and I'd recommend you double check yours JIC you don't have the same problem.
Ed
:mug:

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I've been brewing with a basket (400 microns) for over a year. Will never go back to bags or mash tun.
 
You are right about the temp probe on the pot once the basket is in with grain. It only corrects when stirring. I find it useful on initial pre grain warm up, and post grain boil/cold crash. I use a mash probe and laser for the rest. I really dig the idea of electric brewing, maybe I will convert that direction some day and ditch the propane.
 
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