Brewers Hardware, All Stainless, Single Tier, BCS-462, Automated Rig

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JonW

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OK, my first brew day is done on the new rig, so it is time to unveil it! February 14th, 2016 marked my 99th and 100th batches of all-grain brewing and the first two batches on my latest creation.

Many of you have seen my old system that was a fairly automated BCS-462 based system:
Single tier, 3 pump automated build - ECC Forum
Single Tier, 3 Pump, BCS-462, Automated Rig

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My new system builds on many of the design elements of my previous system. The BCS was definitely still going to be the core of my automation and I had also planned on still using the same basic logic for liquid flow and plumbing. My first major item to upgrade though was the use of a custom stainless frame from Brewers Hardware. My last rig/frame was built with an 18” footprint for the kettles, but I needed a bit more space for the Brewers Hardware 30 gallon kettles that I selected for this build and that required a frame that would support a 20” footprint kettle. Brewers Hardware wasn’t doing a frame this size as a standard offering, so I drew up some specs and between us, we settled on a final design. As you’ll see in the pics, I also had them do some custom welded pieces as brackets for hose and plate chiller attachments.

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The design of the frame was also done utilizing the SS windscreens and BG14 burners that Brewers Hardware offers. As much as I liked the performance from my previous wok/jet burners, I just couldn’t take the noise any longer. I wanted to use the BG14 style burners for a near silent running system. Because I’m on natural gas and the BG14 burners work on such a low velocity of NG, these burners do struggle with higher volumes of liquid (my pre-boil volumes are 20+ gallons). One thing that I noticed in my burner testing was that the BG14 burners have a hard time drawing in enough air to fully combust the available natural gas. If you run them wide open, you’ll usually end up with large yellow flames whipping out from under the kettles which then means you need to turn the burners down to get a cleaner burn. I started looking at what I needed to do to utilize a full, wide-open flow of natural gas and get a complete, clean combustion with it. The natural answer is that if you want to burn more fuel, you need more air, so I started looking at options to increase the air flow to the burner. As you’ll see in the pictures, my BK burner is now equipped with a 1” SS tube that feeds into the venturi opening of the burner. On the other end of the tube (located below the stand) is a 12V 20CFM blower fan. This blower supplies a forced air feed into the burner to allow full combustion of the natural gas flow when the NG gas valve is wide open. This resulted in an almost doubling of the BTU output of the burner. Some discussion of this is in a thread I started last summer: Supercharging a natural gas BG14 burner

One other issue that bit me a couple of times on my old NG system was that I would run the burners wide open when heating strike water, but then I’d forget to turn the gas down when I wanted a light application of heat during the mash recirculation process. While I’ve only scorched wort on one batch, I have had a few times where I had spiked my mash temp because the burners just apply too much heat when on high. So, for this build, I figured I’d just add two gas valves to feed the MLT burner and I could have one set on high and one on low and my processes in the BCS would automatically switch between them meaning that I no longer needed to readjust the burner. I was quite happy with the solenoid valves I used on my old system, so I decided to use the same style again. The only real difference I wanted this time was to use the SS versions instead of brass just because I was doing everything in SS. I had previously used VALVES4PROJECTS which is an Ebay store that’s been around several years now and many homebrewers have used their valves with great success (stores.ebay.com/valves4projects). As I looked at their offerings though, I noticed that their low pressure valves had one style of solenoid actuator on it and their high pressure valves had what I thought was a nicer, cleaner looking actuator on it. I fired off an e-mail to Valves4Projects to inquire if the solenoid actuators were compatible and if I’d be able to order the low pressure valves, but with the actuators on them from the high pressure versions. I got back a very prompt response that they would be happy to custom configure the valves I wanted. Awesome! Not only did I want to use their solenoid valves for gas, but I also wanted them for fresh water filling (more on that later), so I ended up with a total of 8 SS 110/120VAC solenoid valves. I got great service from Valves4Projects and they stock and ship from the US which makes them my go-to place for these valves.

For the liquid flow/recirculation part of things, I utilized an almost identical design to my last system. It is a 3 pump, automated valve setup that facilitates moving water/wort between the kettles without the need to do any hose changes during the brew day. This design has proved very good for recirculation of each kettle as well as the fly sparging process. Since I still almost always do two batches on each brew day, the 3 pumps helps greatly by allowing me to whirlpool and chill batch #1 in the BK while I’m doing continuous recirculation on the HLT & MLT for batch #2. You don’t want to use solenoid valves where sticky wort is involved, so when I went to search for the required 12V automated ball valves, I was pleasantly surprised to see that Valves4Projects had also added those type valves to their lineup. Having dealt with a few Chinese companies over the years, I was quite happy to have a US based company supplying these.

In addition to using the same basic liquid flow, valve/manifold configuration, I wanted to build upon this to add the ability to directly fill the kettles with filtered fresh water for strike and sparge volumes and to also utilize the fresh water input for CIP purposes. I added this feature by changing the fitting at the pump output from a “T” to a “+” cross fitting that allowed the input of fresh water directly to the pump. This allowed me to feed the water not only through my kettle return plumbing, but also backwards through the pump to the kettle output valve/dip tube. In addition, I added another fresh water feed valve for the plate chiller so that I could automatically trigger the chill cycle. This also gives me the simple ability to do a partial chill to a set temp like 180 so that I can then do a whirlpool/hop stand at a lower than boiling temp. If you’ve looked at my previous build thread, you know I like simplicity in plumbing and layout. The way the fresh water input design layered on top of my existing flow design worked nicely in keeping things simple. Since I was automating all the fresh water inputs, I figured I might as well automate the waste water outputs as well. The plate chiller water output plus the addition of two automated ball valves gives me the ability to dump all waste liquids through a simple manifold that runs right under the pump area. The end of the brew rig has quick disconnects for attaching the natural gas, fresh water input and waste water output. I have included a Visio diagram that shows the basic liquid flows.

For those that don't know, Brewers Hardware is in Huntington Beach where I'm located, so it made it real easy to drop in there every time I needed some parts. :) Because the guys there are not only awesome, but they're also part of our local homebrew club Brewcommune , I tried hard to get most of my parts from them unless it was something that they didn't carry. Brewers Hardware supplied stand/frame, kettles, burners, pumps, tri clover fittings, temp probes, BCS's, M12 cables and many of the compression and threaded fittings. Solenoid & ball valves were Valves4Projects. Plate chiller is Dudadiesel. The DIN rails and DIN components were from EbrewSupply and a lot of the little parts were sourced from ebay.

(Most of these pictures were a little rushed, so I'll be updating them with some clearer versions to better show the details of the plumbing).

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JonW_SS_Liquid_Flow.png
 
As previously mentioned, the control panel was built using a BCS. Because of the extra outputs I added for all the fresh water inputs and waste water output valves, I ended up using more I/O ports than a single BCS-462 would support. I ended up adding a BCS-460 that handles just a few of the valves for the fresh water (HLT, MLT & BK fresh water input). This also gave me a dual BCS platform to use for the continued development of the BCS Desktop app that I wrote and give out for BCS users. The BCS Desktop is being developed to handle up to 8 linked BCS units, so having two on my rig helps me write and debug for it.

As I did on my previous brew rig build, I have no manual controls for the BCS. Everything is handled either via the built in BCS web pages or via the BCS Desktop app. I have thought many times of making a control panel with override switches and all, but at the end of the day, I can't justify it when the computer interface handles all the controls needed.

My control panel has a twist lock power connector, RJ45 ethernet jack, twelve 110/120V power plugs and 19 M12 terminals for attaching the 12V valves, temp probes and digital inputs. A piezo buzzer is mounted on the panel to provide the alarm function. I also have a power switch mounted on the outside that is used to cut the power to everything in the panel EXCEPT the BCS's. I did this so that I can have the stand put away in the garage, yet still plugged in to access and program on the BCS controllers.

Because of the amount of wiring that's involved for all the valves, pumps, probes, etc. I chose to mount my control box under the brew rig and cover it with a diamond plate shelf. This does a great job of cleaning up the overall look of the stand as well as protecting components from heat wash and drips.

On the inside of the box, all 12V wiring is done on one long edge of the panel and the "hot" side of the 110V wiring is done on the opposite side. This keeps a nice logical separation of the low voltage and high voltage wiring. The DIN rail mounted 12V power supply is used for ball valves, fan blower, piezo buzzer. Because I keep the BCS's powered up whenever it is plugged in, I'm using the dry-contact relay connection on the 12V power supply to feed a 5V input on the BCS titled "AC Power Sense". This gives me a visual indication whether the panel is powered up when I'm remotely accessing the BCS's. The last thing you want to do is be running pumps when there's no liquid there, so that power feedback keeps me from doing that when I'm remotely accessing it.

I didn't want a huge control box, so one of the ways to keep the size of it smaller was by mounting the 110/120V outlets on the outside of the box instead of drilling holes and mounting recessed outlets. Those power outlet bars you see there are actually power strips that I found online. They are made from extruded aluminum and originally had a power switch and resetable fuse on them. I opened them up and cut them down to the size I wanted and then wired each outlet independently. Each outlet wires into a discrete relay (there is an 8 port and 4 port relay board for all AC switching). I did not use any SSR's since everything that I control is strictly on/off based (no PWM type output like electric elements require).


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I thought I saw stacks for the air-injection already?

btw, I'm definitely coming back tomorrow when I'm reasonably sober.
This is waaaay too much for me to fully appreciate right now...

Cheers! :D
 
I thought I saw stacks for the air-injection already?

btw, I'm definitely coming back tomorrow when I'm reasonably sober.
This is waaaay too much for me to fully appreciate right now...

Cheers! :D

Air injection is currently only on the BK. On a big grain bill though, I can be heating 15G of strike water in the MLT and 15G of sparge water in the HLT and that is just taking too long. My old wok/jet burners kicked ass in that respect, but I like the silence of the BG14's. Not a huge deal at the moment, but the air assist will the heat times on those kettles in half.
 
And I was wondering why you'd been so quiet. Hell you put some time to good use.
 
Dude, seriously. That was so worth the wait. Mad props to you. Crazy professional build. Amazingly clean, organized... and just damn awesome. Really, really, really well done. I cannot imagine (ok, I can) the amount of time and expense you put into it. A true labor of love!! And the hard pipe has me... well... hard piped.

Congrats to you!! Can't wait to see more of this rig... and see it in action! Congrats again!!

-BD
 
Dude, seriously. That was so worth the wait. Mad props to you. Crazy professional build. Amazingly clean, organized... and just damn awesome. Really, really, really well done. I cannot imagine (ok, I can) the amount of time and expense you put into it. A true labor of love!! And the hard pipe has me... well... hard piped.

Congrats to you!! Can't wait to see more of this rig... and see it in action! Congrats again!!

-BD

Thanks man, really appreciate the props. Yeah, about 6 months getting it done. I had taken a bunch of pretty decent photos a month ago and was getting ready to post and then ended up changing up some plumbing and location of the plate chiller. Changing the plate chiller necessitated having a bracket welded on to support the weight so I needed to wait until I got it back to do pics again (which now suck LOL). The two initial brews yesterday went really good though. I'm not happy with the performance of the BG14 burners without the air injection, so that's now on the list to add. I also over-sparged by a gallon on one batch, so I really need to get some float switches setup (panel is pre-wired with M12's for them). I ordered two today that I'll play with.

I haven't worked out the cleaning regimen yet, so I need to get that programmed. I also need to get the multi-BCS code in BCS Desktop finished so I can coordinate everything between the 2 BCS's. All the brewing functions are on the main 462, so it's not a huge issue right now. I just go to the secondary BCS for filling and cleaning.

Just a few things to tweak for now so I just need to get some more brews under my belt with it. I've been on a dry spell for several months so I'm really itching to brew.
 
This is a really cool setup!!! For as elaborate as this is, and yours skills I've seen on other posts, any specific reason for not going electric on the heat source?
 
This is a really cool setup!!! For as elaborate as this is, and yours skills I've seen on other posts, any specific reason for not going electric on the heat source?
Yes, cost! Electricity is very expensive in SoCal compared to natural gas. We have a 4 tier rate structure and my usage is already in tier 4 which means that every additional Kwh that I use is 30+ cents each. Also, I do 1/2 barrel batches, so it would take a lot of wattage to get 20+ gallon boils going.

I'm happy with natural gas - it works well for me. Well, after some performance enhancements to the burners it works well for me. LOL
 
Yes, cost! Electricity is very expensive in SoCal compared to natural gas. We have a 4 tier rate structure and my usage is already in tier 4 which means that every additional Kwh that I use is 30+ cents each. Also, I do 1/2 barrel batches, so it would take a lot of wattage to get 20+ gallon boils going.



I'm happy with natural gas - it works well for me. Well, after some performance enhancements to the burners it works well for me. LOL


Haha that's awesome.

I gotta admit, that's the first time I've heard electric costs more than gas after the up front investment... Good to know!
 
Very impressive Jon! Thank you for sharing so many details. I am currently in the process of building a BCS 462 all electric rig but with your plumbing methods in play.

What drove the choice to utilize 12V AND 120V valves? Do you have any power issues with the 12v valves on that power supply?

Your comment about not making a control panel with override switches because the computer interface handles that all really struck home. I've been going nuts trying to plan for 8+ 3-way switches for the valves with Auto and On lights and it is getting a little silly. I will be able to control all of that with the iPad. Perhaps I will skip those switches as well, but where do I stop? Do I really need them for my pumps? Even the Elements? In theory I could simply have a power key, an Estop, and an element selector easily accessible and leave the rest up to the BCS...
 
Ya this was my approach as well. Why have hardware buttons when the software does it all. Less expensive, easier to wire/debug, and makes for easier upgrades... Imagine needing to add additional holes, switches, wires, etc. to your completed panel.
 
Ya this was my approach as well. Why have hardware buttons when the software does it all. Less expensive, easier to wire/debug, and makes for easier upgrades... Imagine needing to add additional holes, switches, wires, etc. to your completed panel.

I'm really happy I found this thread today! This is completely changing the direction I am heading for my setup. Thanks guys!
 
HungusBrews said:
Very impressive Jon! Thank you for sharing so many details. I am currently in the process of building a BCS 462 all electric rig but with your plumbing methods in play.
Thanks!

HungusBrews said:
What drove the choice to utilize 12V AND 120V valves? Do you have any power issues with the 12v valves on that power supply?
There are no power issues with 12V valves. I used them on my last rig and many others use them as well. I feel wiring is less bulky and simpler with 12V and I wanted to use the M12 style connectors for as much as I could. Additionally, I needed a 12V power supply in the panel for the relay boards, alarm and blower fan so no issue using it for the valves also.

HungusBrews said:
Your comment about not making a control panel with override switches because the computer interface handles that all really struck home. I've been going nuts trying to plan for 8+ 3-way switches for the valves with Auto and On lights and it is getting a little silly. I will be able to control all of that with the iPad. Perhaps I will skip those switches as well, but where do I stop? Do I really need them for my pumps? Even the Elements? In theory I could simply have a power key, an Estop, and an element selector easily accessible and leave the rest up to the BCS...
I've really wrestled with the choice of doing a full on panel with switches and status LED's several times. The problem was, I only wanted to do one for basically the bling factor. I've been brewing with a BCS for several years now and I've never needed a manual control. Sure, when you're priming a pump it could be nice to have a manual cutoff to stop/start the pump, but I've been able to do that in my process/state programming just as easy. Instead of a physical panel as bling, I use a large touchscreen monitor powered by a Rpi as my bling running the BCS Desktop app.
 
Beautiful setup man. I bet your plumbing alone cost more than 95% of builds here!

LOL... it wasn't that bad. All tri clover fittings were from Brewers Hardware, tubing from McMaster Carr and a bunch of Swagelok fittings from ebay. If you're not in an immediate hurry and watch ebay for a while, you can really score some great deals on compression fittings from Swagelok, Parker, Cajun, Crawford, etc. I only paid $6-$8 for some of those sweet compression to 1/2" NPT T's and elbows. It did take me nearly 4 months to gather all the pieces I needed as I wasn't going to pay full price for any of them. The most I paid for any of the Swagelok pieces was the 1 PSI check valves (4 of them) that were $15 each. I needed those to prevent backflow into the fresh water plumbing.
 
Amazing rig Jon!

Can you clarify on why some valves are 12V and some are 120V? Are they liquid vs gas?
 
Amazing rig Jon!

Can you clarify on why some valves are 12V and some are 120V? Are they liquid vs gas?

All the 120V valves are solenoid valves. Those are for natural gas (4) and fresh water (4). You never want to use solenoid valves for wort as they cannot be completely cleaned.

The 12V valves are ball valves that are used for the liquid side of brewing. One thing to also note as a difference is that solenoid valves are instant on/off when triggered and the ball valves take anywhere from 5-10 seconds to open/close depending on make/model of them.
 
All the 120V valves are solenoid valves. Those are for natural gas (4) and fresh water (4). You never want to use solenoid valves for wort as they cannot be completely cleaned.



The 12V valves are ball valves that are used for the liquid side of brewing. One thing to also note as a difference is that solenoid valves are instant on/off when triggered and the ball valves take anywhere from 5-10 seconds to open/close depending on make/model of them.


Thanks Jon. I'm guessing that there are no 12-24 volt all SS solenoid a that met your requirements then?
 
Thanks Jon. I'm guessing that there are no 12-24 volt all SS solenoid a that met your requirements then?

There are 24V ones, but then that means that I would need to have 12, 24 and 120V supplied on the system. 120V is a given because of the pumps & igniters, so using that for the solenoids was not issue. I could have used 120V ball valves also, but I would still need 12V available for other accessories.
 
There are 24V ones, but then that means that I would need to have 12, 24 and 120V supplied on the system. 120V is a given because of the pumps & igniters, so using that for the solenoids was not issue. I could have used 120V ball valves also, but I would still need 12V available for other accessories.


Good points - thanks for the insight!
 
JonW, how are you filtering hops from reaching the plate chiller?

This is something, as you likely saw in my video, I am trying to handle. I was not using any pre-filter going into my chillers, relying on whirlpooling to clean up the trub. However, during a brown ale brew (low hops of course), my secondary chiller clogged. Doing other beers, including pale ales never caused an issue. So I am not sure how it did, could have just been a fluke, but as you can appreciate it really caused a disaster trying to clear it. I then tried to put the bazooka screen in the bottom drain but it clogged in a cinch. I will probably try another type of pre-screen (larger pores to let more hops through), but no guarantee it will work.

Since you have a plate chiller, you must be handling some way.
 
Like you BrunDog, I am currently in search of a better BK screen solution. However, what I'm currently doing seems to be working fairly well. Back when I had Blichmann kettles, I had picked up two of their original kettle screens just before they switched to the hopblocker contraption. I was using those in conjuction with a hop spider. When I switched to a 30G Brewers Hardware kettle (on my old rig) I had BH make a custom dip tube so I could stay with the BL kettle screen and hop spider.

With my new setup, I've "borrowed" the dip tube and kettle screen setup from the old rig for now. I've also ditched the hop spider as I've not been feeling comfortable for a while that I'm getting full hop utilization as it does not appear that wort free flows through the spider good enough (using a 5G paint strainer bag). I've now gone back to my old method of hop additions which includes having each hop addition in its own 1G paint strainer bag. I toss a piece of SS into each bag to weight it down. One of the other benefits of the multiple bags is that when you start to whirlpool, they gather in the center and create a nice mass that a lot of the break material collects on.

For now, I will stay with the individual hop addition bags, but I'll be investigating some SS mesh hop spiders down the road. For the dip tube, I have already picked up two 12" bazooka's that I'm going to fashion into a BL style dual screen setup. I definitely need the extra surface area of the 12" tubes as the original BL ones get clogged up pretty quick on the 15-18G batch sizes that I do. Still though, they don't plug where I'm not getting flow, so they do work.

With the hop bags combined with the screens, I've never had issues with the plate chillers. I immediately flush my plate chiller with line pressure fresh water at the end of the brew day. I then recirc hot wort through it to sterilize it during the next brew day. About every 3-4 brew days I put the plate chiller on my keg cleaner to run hot PBW through it.

With the new DudaDiesel plate chiller, I'm seeing that it drains much easier than the Blichmann Therminator one did. I always had to keep flipping the Therminator back and forth to get the liquid out whereas the Duda drains completely just by standing it on end. I'm also seeing much better chilling with the Duda. I used to whirlpool back into the BK for about 20 minutes before I was coming out of the Therminator at 72-74. With the new Duda chiller, I'm coming out of the chiller at 70 degrees in a single pass. My ground water was 69.1 degrees.

Here's the Bazooka's I will be using:
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Here's the old Blichmann style screen (stock photo - not my setup):
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I'll second brewApprentice. I've used a number of methods and landed on this little gem. So far, I am very happy with the results. Hop utilization is good, whirpool unaffected, and particles in the plate chiller are negligible. They can customize to fit larger BK too.


Arborfab also has some great prices on SS screens and will customize them to fit. I just got an eight inch diameter filter that has a half inch clearance on the bottom. Works well for me and cleans well with a hose.
 
Impressive build Jon! I love the obvious attention to detail. I've been very happy with my Brewers Hardware gear. You'll love it too I'm sure.
 
How well do the m12 sensor wires hold up to heat? Mine are going to be similar placement to yours and I worry that they may get scorched.

What are you using for ignition?

I love the tippy dump idea. How do you think you're going to implement it here?
 
I too have struggled with filtering hops. I started out using the same filter that Kal uses on his rig. Even with the large surface area I had to throttle the pump back to a trickle and continously scrape the hop debris off of it to prevent it from clogging. It was frustrating to have bought a dudadeisal chiller and not be able to take advantage of its high efficiency.

I had greater success with that filter when I stopped throwing the hops directly into the kettle and started putting them into 3" stainless steel tea balls. Not only are the tea balls expensive, but I wasn't getting the same hop utilization.

Since then I have ditched the filter over the dip tube and bought a nice large stainless steel hop spider from stainlessbrewing. This works much better as I can pump as fast as I want to without anything clogging. This time of the year with ground water in the 60's I can knock out 10 gallons in about 10 minutes with a 3 degree delta between the temp of the ground water and the wort exiting the chiller.

Hop utilization seems to be the same or close to throwing them directly in the boil kettle. Only complaint I can think of is that when you pull the spider out at the end of the boil the hop debris tends to clog the screen preventing the wort from draining out quickly. Rolling it around in the air above the kettle at an angle helps to drain it by getting wort up the sides where it isn't clogged.
 
How well do the m12 sensor wires hold up to heat? Mine are going to be similar placement to yours and I worry that they may get scorched.

What are you using for ignition?

I love the tippy dump idea. How do you think you're going to implement it here?

The M12 wires are just fine for where I have them running. All of my heat wash goes out the back, so no issues with the wiring on the front of the kettles. There is absolutely no heat on any of the lower wiring around the plumbing.

I'm using hot surface igniters. The BCS directly controls them and has options for setting warm-up time (time on before gas valve opens) and ignition time (time igniter stays lit after gas valve opens). This is the same setup on my last rig and works very good. I personally see no reason to do expensive Honeywell valves with flame detectors, etc. since I am always present when my system is running.

The pic below shows where I initially mounted my HSI's. I ran high-temp wiring through the top/front rail and down one of the legs. All the wiring is hidden. Unfortunately, when I did my first boil test, the stand tripped the GFCI outlet because the wiring inside the tubing melted! When I took the igniters out to inspect, I found that the short wire leads on the igniter had melted, but my high-temp wiring I supplied did not. The problem came down to the fact that there is no air flow inside that 2" frame tubing that holds the burner shield, so it gets just as hot as the shield.

The solution was to move the igniter just below the box tubing so the initial portion of the wiring resides out in the open air. If you look close at some of the pics in the first post of this thread, you can see the short sections of wire from the igniters. The remaining wiring is still hidden within the front rail portion and comes out the front right leg under the diamond plate shelf. All 3 igniters are wired together with wire nuts and a single 120V cord runs to the control panel.

As for the tippy dump, I have some ideas I'm working on. One idea will make it quickly removable so I can swap it over to the BK to dump left over trub.

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Awesome Rig. I greatly appreciate you sharing this setup. I am planning on doing something similar and this absolutely helps. I had a quick question, do you have any trouble priming the pumps since everything is hard plumbed? There doesn't seem to be any purge valves to get the air out of the lines to prime the pump.
 
Awesome Rig. I greatly appreciate you sharing this setup. I am planning on doing something similar and this absolutely helps. I had a quick question, do you have any trouble priming the pumps since everything is hard plumbed? There doesn't seem to be any purge valves to get the air out of the lines to prime the pump.

So far, no issues. One of the things that helps is just removing the fitting inside the return at the top of the kettle so that when the valve first opens, the air does have a high point to escape. I always did that on my old rig to help prime, but so far (with only 1 brew day/2 batches) I didn't do that on this rig and the center inlet pumps primed just fine. I did have a slow-flow issue on my BK on my second batch, but that was because the kettle screen is too small for the volume and had got somewhat clogged.
 
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