Keezer Collar - Build in Stages?

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Jiffster

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The answer to this quest seems very obvious to me but I want to ask to make sure I'm not overlooking anything.

I am building a keezer almost identical to GrainTo Glasses in this thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=515869

Same drip tray but my collar design might be slightly different in that I think I'll be using 2x8 for the main portion of the collar with 1x8 oak wrapping it. No overhang or recess for the lid. Reason being I'm pretty sure I'll need the entire height in order to set a corny on the hump.

thumb_IMG_2787_1024.jpg

My question is:

Do you think there would be any issues with building the main frame of the collar (2x8 pine) and installing a couple of faucets until I can add the external oak to the collar?
 
I don't think it will be an issue since you'll ultimately need to cut holes in the 2x8 for your shanks any way. Couple of things to consider on putting your keg on the shelf. 1) make sure your ball lock fittings don't protrude above the collar on the keg (mine do). 2) the insulation on most freezer lids protrudes down in to the freezer cavity. If you plan to use the original lid, make sure you account for it in the amount of space you have.
 
I think I would personally go with a 2x10" board to give myself room. And even though I have never built one I've thought a lot about it. I would see why you shouldn't be able to go ahead. I'm assuming you're talking about a 1/4" piece in the exterior or possibly a Venere? Either way you should be able to go ahead and get this puppy up and running.
 
I don't think it will be an issue since you'll ultimately need to cut holes in the 2x8 for your shanks any way. Couple of things to consider on putting your keg on the shelf. 1) make sure your ball lock fittings don't protrude above the collar on the keg (mine do). 2) the insulation on most freezer lids protrudes down in to the freezer cavity. If you plan to use the original lid, make sure you account for it in the amount of space you have.

I think I would personally go with a 2x10" board to give myself room. And even though I have never built one I've thought a lot about it. I would see why you shouldn't be able to go ahead. I'm assuming you're talking about a 1/4" piece in the exterior or possibly a Venere? Either way you should be able to go ahead and get this puppy up and running.


And this is exactly why I am glad I posted before starting. The insulation for the lid does recess into the freezer and I didn't consider that in my height measurement.

2x10 is the way to go!

Thanks!
 
Then it sounds like you would have cut a wedge of the 2x10" board out so that part of it would fit down in the freezer, while leaving enough of a lip for the 1x10" oak board to attach. Does this sound right? I'm wondering about your freezer lid, because the father back the board sits the less the lid can sit flush. Anyways I'm sure you have a solid plan, and I'm excited to see it come together. Personally I like Dowel rods and I think I would drill a few holes to attach the facia to the main framing board. This way there are no screws, and glue will end up holding it together. It just looks more craftsman that way, IMO... Anways I hope it goes well.
 
i used 2x10 on mine, with 1x12 finish oak on the outside. i have a 15.5 cu ft frigidaire and i needed the 2x10 to get a corny on top of the compressor hump and still clear the fittings. 1.5" xps foam insulation on the inside of the rough collar:

20151222_143130_resized_zpsvnfbl31e.jpg


20151224_171723_resized_zpsttruqkxa.jpg


20151228_154244_resized_zpsawpr501x.jpg


lots more photos in my brewery build thread, starting here (several posts, keep scrolling):

www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=7287675#post7287675
 
i used 2x10 on mine, with 1x12 finish oak on the outside. i have a 15.5 cu ft frigidaire and i needed the 2x10 to get a corny on top of the compressor hump and still clear the fittings. 1.5" xps foam insulation on the inside of the rough collar:



lots more photos in my brewery build thread, starting here (several posts, keep scrolling):



www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=7287675#post7287675



Very nice and I notice you sure like board games. So what if you didn't want to add one to the hump how many can you fit in a 15.5 cuft freezer? Also do you have dimensions of your corny kegs?
 
I finished the inner collar tonight but didn't have time to remove lid, install and reattach the lid. Loosely installed drip tray just to see it.

The frame wasn't as tight as I thought it would be due to wood imperfections. I think I may need to silicone the corners inside and maybe even to the freezer.

I did pick up some rubber foam tape I'm going to install between the top of the freezer and bottom of collar.

One corner of collar has about 1/8-1/4" difference between front and side piece. Imperfect wood.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1455504418.530482.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1455504432.053041.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1455504445.876560.jpg
 
Very nice and I notice you sure like board games. So what if you didn't want to add one to the hump how many can you fit in a 15.5 cuft freezer? Also do you have dimensions of your corny kegs?

i can get nine kegs 'on the floor' and another two on the hump for a total of eleven. can fit a 10 lb co2 cylinder in there as well. i got the kegs in the link below, 25" tall and 8.5" in diameter.

http://www.homebrewing.org/AIH-New-5-Gallon-Corny-Keg-Ball-Lock_p_5100.html
 
I finished the inner collar tonight but didn't have time to remove lid, install and reattach the lid. Loosely installed drip tray just to see it.

The frame wasn't as tight as I thought it would be due to wood imperfections. I think I may need to silicone the corners inside and maybe even to the freezer.

I did pick up some rubber foam tape I'm going to install between the top of the freezer and bottom of collar.

One corner of collar has about 1/8-1/4" difference between front and side piece. Imperfect wood.

that's one bad deal about 2x10s, they are more prone to warping/cupping compared to narrower lumber. i really cranked on mine and even then it wasn't perfect. nothing a little caulk and finish boards can't fix. :mug:
 
I'm planning on building a keezer soon, and the one design feature I want to include is to have the collar hinged rather than the lid, i.e., the entire collar and lid will tilt up.

Why? To lower the height of the edge of the keezer to make it easier to lift a keg over the edge.

In this application that's a reason to keep the collar as small in dimension as possible is to keep its weight down so as to facilitate hinging the collar and lid.
 
I'm planning on building a keezer soon, and the one design feature I want to include is to have the collar hinged rather than the lid, i.e., the entire collar and lid will tilt up.

Why? To lower the height of the edge of the keezer to make it easier to lift a keg over the edge.

In this application that's a reason to keep the collar as small in dimension as possible is to keep its weight down so as to facilitate hinging the collar and lid.

Yeah, that would be nice, but I need the taller collar to fit a keg on the hump.
 
that's one bad deal about 2x10s, they are more prone to warping/cupping compared to narrower lumber. i really cranked on mine and even then it wasn't perfect. nothing a little caulk and finish boards can't fix. :mug:

I ended up taking one board off the collar that actually measured 1/4" less in width. Lowe's let me return the cut board. I bought another so that will at least take care of the gap offset around the base.

I dug through the pile they had and found 1 that was "OK". I guess it is rough lumber so shouldn't complain too much. Quality is definitely taking a hit though.
 
Yeah, that would be nice, but I need the taller collar to fit a keg on the hump.

You'd still have room. I'm not trying to convince you of anything, I'm pretty sure you're a big boy and can decide for yourself. :)

But I would ask this: why would there be any less room for your keg on the hump if the hinge was on the bottom of the collar instead of the top? :)
 
that's one bad deal about 2x10s, they are more prone to warping/cupping compared to narrower lumber. i really cranked on mine and even then it wasn't perfect. nothing a little caulk and finish boards can't fix. :mug:

I built decks for a lot of years and learned a trick to dealing with the cupped boards, take a circular and set the depth for 3/4", cut down the middle of the the 2x10 lengthwise. This will allow you to pull the butt joints tight and also reduces the cupping that will eventually happen down the road with changes in humidity. I always did this with the 2x6 cap rails on my wood decks and they never cupped up even after years of exposure. I can't recommend such a practice with anything structural though.
 
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