Brazing cam lock fittings

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Mista_Sparkle

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I'm working on a little coffee maker RIMS system in a little box and am going to and try cram some cam locks in it. It would be handy of there were some bulkhead or panel mount styles available at a reasonable price but I don't see anything out there.

Anyway, if I braze a pair of male connectors through the side of a box, will there still be enough room to activate the cams or would it need some sort of standoff?

I'm thinking I will install them in a little removable panel then screw them to my enclosure. A photo of the setup is attached.

-Mista

20160206_202554.jpg
 
If you used type F males to go through the sheet metal and space them apart enough for the female couplers, there won't be any clearance issues wrt fully engaging the cams. The hex section assures there's way more elevation than needed for locking.

With the right combination of lock nuts and o-rings you might not have to braze them in place...

CAMP12M12.jpg


Cheers!
 
Hmm. I probably will go with the house barb (type e) style, so I don't end up with a big stack of adaptors. Might that still fit???

It kind of like like there is the same amount of space on bargainfittings, but hard to guess...
 
Interesting idea.
CAME-2T.jpg


There won't be a clearance issue wrt latching the female coupler, you can see there's a riser section that ensures adequate elevation.
But you would pretty much be stuck brazing them in place.
The idea of a removable section of your enclosure is a good one in that case...

Cheers!
 
I have male cams with 1/2" compression on the back. Depending on the element tube diameter, you may be able to both connect to the element and lock into holes in the enclosure.
 
I have male cams with 1/2" compression on the back. Depending on the element tube diameter, you may be able to both connect to the element and lock into holes in the enclosure.

The element diameter is 0.400 which I found quite odd... Compression fittings were my first thought, but I'll just go 3/8" silicone on the element to 1/2" hose barb (with a lot of stretching, but I think it will work) on the box with a camlock.
 
Interesting idea! Have you tried it out? Do you think it will scorch the wort?

The average fluid velocity over the element is much higher than in a low watt density rims tube, I believe that it should have no problem with scorching.

I also left the klixon in the circuit which has an upper limit of 135, probably not quite low enough

Hopefully I'll have everything in a working state for the next brew to test...
 
Is that element aluminum or stainless? If aluminum go with the compression camlocks or simply connection hoses to high flow camlocks.
 
The average fluid velocity over the element is much higher than in a low watt density rims tube, I believe that it should have no problem with scorching.

I also left the klixon in the circuit which has an upper limit of 135, probably not quite low enough

Hopefully I'll have everything in a working state for the next brew to test...
If the Klixon is set to 135 how do you plan on mashing at normal mash temps of 148 plus?
 
Yeah, must have forgot the C...

It will be good for keeping it from burning out the element, but that's about it.

Its function is more that of a thermostat, keeping the hotplate at the Klixon's max temp (e.g., 135°C) after the water is gone, without overheating and yes, burning the element out.

In your design it is crucial to keep the wort flowing at a fast rate to prevent it from getting too hot, denaturing the enzymes and possibly scorching it.

Keep the hoses to the mash tun short as possible since most temp loss come from that.
 
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