Robust construction and flawless weldless design. Boom.
I see a weld. Is the male thread tapered or straight?
Even if it's mounted high, you'd probably want a ball valve outside the pot. I use Bobby's Mini-Ball Valve on my whirlpool arm.Also (probably a dumb question) is there any issues with boiling wort ejected out of the kettle during the boil?
Even if it's mounted high, you'd probably want a ball valve outside the pot. I use Bobby's Mini-Ball Valve on my whirlpool arm.
BTW, really like this idea. Seems perfect for someone who wants to whirlpool after a BIAB mash.
Pretty sure that the reduced flow on the 1/2" mini ball valve is still greater than the inside diameter of the whirlpool arm, so it should have no impact with this application. Bobby?Those valves are reduced flow and I would think on the whirlpool you want all the flow the pump can give you. I would choose another valve for this operation.
FWIW, I have a "Swirlboss" on my Brewboss EBIAB setup that is basically positioned just like that. But it hangs from the top of the kettle and is adjustable because you actually want the outlet ABOVE the level of the wort to both aerate and create a better whirlpool. Ive both tried and seen videos on whirlpooling above and below the liquid and it definitely works better above
As for hot side aeration, I think that's a myth on a homebrewing level. My whirlpool device aerates enough to foam up to the top of my kettle sometimes. And I whirlpool continuously for over an hour for my IPAs. If hot side aeration was a thing, my beers would be undrinkable from being entirely littered by it
The outlet is positioned to keep it under the surface of the lowest batch size. If you have a 15 gallon pot and do both 5 and 10 gallon batches, it's best to have the outlet at the 4 gallon mark. Keep in mind that I'm not making a case for whirlpooling over not whirlpooling or using a pump and this device over just using a spoon. If you have a pump and want to whirlpool, you're not going to find a better hardware solution.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eg1Sk6VFnbg
Maybe removing the hose barb and using one of these attached to your elbow with the elbow angled down.With the welded port, what would be a more effective way of achieving a whirlpool?
I Have a 15 Gallon Bayou Classic with the SS basket. I use the basket lined with a mesh bag for BIAB brews. Will this item allow me to still use the basket. There is about 1/2-3/4 in gap (i think) between the wall and the basket. Thoughts?
As for hot side aeration, I think that's a myth on a homebrewing level. My whirlpool device aerates enough to foam up to the top of my kettle sometimes. And I whirlpool continuously for over an hour for my IPAs. If hot side aeration was a thing, my beers would be undrinkable from being entirely littered by it
Why would you whirlpool for over an hour? In general the gentler you are with the wort and beer the better. Aeration aside shear stress is not desirable either.
Not meaning to hijack but since it is popping up... I have your current whirlpool arm which has a compression fitting. This works really well in my config. The problem I have is pump cavitation - wort at boiling temp running through the pump then whirlpool arm at low to no restriction = cavitation and decoupling. I have thought about putting a nozzle at the exit of the whirlpool arm, but can't seem to find an off-the-shelf solution, such as a socket weld reducing fitting in SS.
Have you given this any thought with this new design or seen/heard of this issue with the old design? I suppose many whirlpool through their CFC or plate chiller which creates a restriction. I go through the chiller to sanitize it during the final stages of the boil, but then go straight from pump to arm for the whirlpool stage. The volume really creates a legit hop/trub cone.
I recently ordered new 15G kettles from Spike and had a recirculation port welded near the top. I picked up a chugger, plate chiller, cam locks and connection kits from Bobby. I am going to wet test everything today prior to first brew. Was planning to use a 90* el with 3/8" hose barb to generate a whirlpool (see pic).
I gather from this thread that trying to whirlpool from the top may not be effective. I'm also now concerned about spraying wort everywhere. Are these valid concerns? With the welded port, what would be a more effective way of achieving a whirlpool? Seems like Bobby's new whirlpool arm would be hard to spin-thread into the in-place welded port?
I have similar set up on the MLT and was going to use a length of high-temp silicon hose purchased from Bobby to recirculate during the mash. That approach still seems okay?
Bobby. I like the looks of the Spincycle better than what I'm using now, but already have a hole drilled that I'd want to use. The tube would have to be shorter than the 10" drop length. I have a tube bender. Do you see any problem in cutting it off and bending it? What's the wall thickness?
Long hop stands/steeps. My last beer had 2.25 hours of whirlpooling and was the best beer I have ever brewed. I did it partially by hand because it was too cold out (I didn't want too much heat loss through pump hoses), but in the warmer months I plan to let the pump go for that long.
are you doing biab with that pot, as I see a false bottom... or is it a mash tun?
Just not sure why you would want to whirlpool a mash tun if that is what you use that pot for. And if its a boil kettle, while the whirlpool would help with an immersion chiller, I dont think you're going to see any benefit in trub reduction with that false bottom in there.
Why are you running your pump that whole time though? Some IPA brewers even use CO2 pressure to transfer from the kettle just to avoid additional pumping stress.
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