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Old 02-06-2006, 02:24 AM   #21
Beer Snob
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Well here is what I thought of... since the hole is too big now I need to start a new one. I took a rubbermaid top (the kind that is safe for food) and cut out two oversized sections. I am glueing them together with Gorila Glue. Thier net site says that when dry it is non toxic and waterproof. Put two together for strength. Then I am glueing this oversized piece over the hole. I made it oversized so I can make sure the glue is not over the hole thus preventing the glue from having direct contact with the wort inside. I then can redrill the hole so that it would take a 3/8 inch size ball valve with hardware similar to what has been shown here.

Any thoughts... you think it would work?


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Old 02-06-2006, 02:27 AM   #22
I prefer 23383
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sounds good to me
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Old 02-25-2006, 06:46 AM   #23
Tom Hess
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My mash/lauter tun is an Igloo ten gallon cooler, with a Phil's Phalse bottom. We have a Lowes and a Menards in town. Lowes didn't help, but Menards had a threaded boiler drain valve, which looks just like an outdoor faucet I looked around until I found two flanges with the same thread and two gaskets.

To attach the Phalse Bottom, I used a barb and a PVC cap. The brass barb fits the outlet from the Phalse bottom. The other side of the barb is threaded. The PVC cap is Schedule 40, which means thick. I drilled a hole in the apex of the cap, a bit smaller that the threaded side of the barb, then twisted the barb into it. Assembly or disassembly takes a minute. After brewing, I disassemble the valve and rinse it out.

I usually get a few drips from it, but less than a teaspoon from a session.

For something cheap, fast and effective, get a drilled, food grade rubber stopper from a homebrew supply store. Put rigid tubing through the hole, and insert the stopper with the thick end inside. Use flexible plastic tubing to connect to the false bottom and to go to the pot. Use a pinch clamp to throttle the tubing.

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